Jump to content

Moving Crown On Winder Stem


Recommended Posts

The winder on my automatic watch will not wind properly. It feels jammed. However, when I remove the back and release the mechanism so that the winder can be fully pushed in, it winds OK. Evidently the crown is jamming against the case, preventing the winder from being pushed fully home. The obvious solution is to unscrew the crown on the stem a tad but it doesn't want to move and I don't want to break the stem. Can anyone tell me if there is a neater solution than filing the seat of the crown away? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't start filing the crown ;)

 

Is this a screw down watch back or a snap on back?

 

Is there a movement spacer ring in the watch (between the movement and the case). If there is - is it lined up correctly?

 

Feel free to post pictures with the back off so I can take a look for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for replying so quickly! Regarding your questions: the watch has a screw down back. There  is a plastic spacer which seems to be lined up OK but since it could obviously be the problem maybe I can shave it slightly to allow the movement to sit nearer the winder side of the case? I'll try to send a photo. Ah now, what's the easiest way of doing that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for replying so quickly! Regarding your questions: the watch has a screw down back. There  is a plastic spacer which seems to be lined up OK but since it could obviously be the problem maybe I can shave it slightly to allow the movement to sit nearer the winder side of the case? I'll try to send a photo. Ah now, what's the easiest way of doing that?

 

Screw backs can sometimes move the movement ring when you tighten it and this can result in the ring jamming the stem. Try moving the ring anti-clockwise so the gap for the stem jams up agains the stem - then tighten the back, perhaps it will move the ring to the correct position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sorry. Must be getting old. I can't see any 'Attach image' button or similar below the Post button or anywhere else!

 

I have fixed this. It was a permissions problem with the forum software. Feel free to post your picture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the watch back have a rubber gasket around the rim? If not then the back could be screwing down too far. Same if the gasket is too thin.


 


Also - as it is the movement ring (plastic part) looks a little out of place - the gap over the winding stem should be even either side of the stem.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks for all your help! There's no gasket, but when I unscrew the back a tad it doesn't help. I've adjusted the movement ring, but no change. Still winds perfectly when the movement is out of the case! Very odd. Even thought maybe packing the movement with wafer of plastic on the far side to push it nearer the winder but that would need a bit shaved off the ring on the winder side - getting into deep water there!! Basically I feel I need a longer winder stem. That's why originally I wondered if the crown could be unscrewed from the stem, and Loctited a mm or so further out. However the crown seems immovable and I don't want to force it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - I have re-read your first post and coupled with your last post I am now understanding you better. Yes I feel you are on the correct path - the stem is most likely too short.

 

There are two options. The first (and will give you the best results) will be to remove the crown (try heating it up slightly if it is very tight - not too much as you do not want to discolour it). Then use a stem extension - I will guess you will need a tap 9/ tap 9. Shorten the stem extension so it has just enough thread to tighten the crown onto and no more. Then effectively you have a longer pipe crown to deal with. Now you can adjust the stem accordingly. Use a little loctite on all the threads.

 

The second option is what you have mentioned, but I would recommend you pack the button with small shavings of solder so that you can still tighten the crown on the stem and loctite is still recommended.

 

If you are stuck - I will try to make a video showing how to do this. Let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi

 

Yes it's a Chinese movement in a cheap Breitling copy so I can't complain! I decided to file the crown so that the stem goes fully home. It seems to have done the trick. I slid a short length of 1.5mm mains cable insulation over the stem whilst filing so that the small file didn't damage the stem. (Used the 'plain' edge of the file against the stem)

 

Thanks for all your advice. Great site!

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
    • Hi! I am in the process of restoring a rado captain cook mkII. I want to remove the rotor, but I am not sure how to and need some help. As you can hopefully see on the photo there are 2 screws. The left one has two positions, the right one looks like a regular screw. I have tried turning the right one, but it does not give even after using more force than I would expect. Anyone know the function of the left screw with the two positions and how to remove the rotor? Thanks!!
    • Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy
×
×
  • Create New...