Hello, I could not fint any answer to this on any other thread.
Im using Isopropyl alcohol for the last step of hand cleaning movements. However i can not find a good way to throw used liquid away. How do you do it, I know that the liquid will turn into gas eventually however since i fill a small jar there is always going to come times when i need to throw it away. Where do i throw it?
How do you do it?
Thanks in advance, Jakob
Hi to you all,
I was wondering, if you use a regular ultrasonic instead of a watch cleaning machine. How would you rinse your parts? And how many times? In which solutions?
I always cleaned my parts in the ultra sonic with a solution and rinsed the parts in benzine( that's the way an old watchmaker learned me) but i've found out that very often this does not give me the results i was hoping for. Can I perhaps get little jars with a rinse solution and run those in the ultra sonic?
I have managed to get hold of a singing bird cage at a reasonable price after years of trying.
It's not working...I would like some advice on what solutions to use to clean it as I think it just requires a good clean, nothings broken.
Can anyone tell me what make of cleaner to use and what lubricant would be best, have attached photo's!
I've just changed my cleaning fluid in my Elma cleaner to the Elma WF Pro, I've done one movement, the fluid was clear but now it's gone blue. Does anyone know of this is normal? Or should I change it?
A soak in diesel fuel, naphta for day or two, ends the old story of heads popping off the screws.
I remove balance cock pallets and soak the rest, give one dip in a fluid I can stand the odor of.
Any cheap multipurpose oil would do.
I use several solutions, detergent seperately and brush extesively.
Hello forum folks,
I've been tinkering with watches for maybe 5 years now. I'm very much a beginner but I have been practicing on cheap watches and movements that it is ok to break. I've managed to make my own watch dial from a brass sheet, including brushing, rhodium plating, printing, and creating applied markers and numerals. I've also made a "smart" watch using epoxy-based putty for the case and my electronics knowledge. I have some basic skills in metal finishing including polishing and plating.
So I've mostly worked on the non-movement aspects of watchmaking and am interested into learning about servicing movements. I live in the Milwaukee area and was thrilled to see MATC (local trade school) on lists of schools that teach watchmaking -- just to have that dashed when I contacted them and the class has been discontinued for lack of interest So for now, I have online and book resources to learn.
I have a mostly cheap watch collection other than a Longines that I treasure. I have a few different old timex mechanicals I got off of ebay, including 2 from JerseyMo which I saw is on this forum. I have have way more hobbies than time so I'll probably be around off and on.
First thing would be to remove the pinions. They are sometimes quite well rivetted, so this may involve turning away some of the rivet or being willing to sacrifice the wheel (it could easily be distorted beyond use in punching the pinion out). Then you need to compare the hole in the wheel you want to use to the diameter on the pinion that will be pressed and rivetted in. If too big it gets tricky, you'll need to sleeve/bush the hole very securely. I would open the hole further, then chamfer both sides, make the bush with an undersized hole, then fit it in. Swage the bush with a convex punch in the hole from both sides, then a flat punch that is larger than the bush. The idea is to deform metal into the two chamfers on the wheel. Finally flatten and clean up. Now open the hole to receive the pinion.
If the hole is too small it's easy, just open it up and press/rivett the pinion in.