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I guess it's a Seiko Galaxy. Not much information here, but this is a great list of Seiko subbrands : https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/seiko-branding-dictionary.209014/ . -
Hi All, I’ve been playing around with this movement and am starting to get familiar with working with the tools. So far I have taken apart and reassembled the keyless works without losing anything - so pretty happy with that! I bought a cheap case, dial and hands when I got the movement, hoping to make a watch out of the parts after I’d learnt how to service the movement. Jumping the gun, I decided to try and put the watch together just to see if I could. At first I thought it was going OK and I got the hands on but the problem I’m having is that the dial won’t stay on and is loose. I can see that the dial screws are cam shaped but they don’t seem to catch the dial feet properly. I guess either the dial feet are too narrow, or maybe I’ve managed to bend them, or perhaps I’ve managed to bugger-up the screws by overturning them. Does anyone have any suggestions about what a possible fix might be? Thanks, Bill -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
I haven't worked on any Seiko, they're just something i have not been interested in , though i do own a few new models including an SKX . But I thought I'd give this a go as my first, I liked the unusual dial. But that crystal looks like its going to be a real problem to get hold of. -
Getting one's hands dirty. Well, today I decided to tear down and re assemble the ST36. Certainly you experts have both written and read a lot about this Chinese clone of the ETA 6497. All I can say is wow. Timegrapher dial down reports +1 s/d 325 Amplitude .1ms BE and auto detect reports 21,600/52 degrees. HA! If they were all this easy!! I then pivoted to a pet project. My beloved Timex M cell purchased in 1983. Mine has died but I have now a 3rd donor from eBay that seem to stop and start. Just sitting quietly, for a week she will not budge and I lost interest. This AM it was running. So, I used my cheap oilers and my 9010 for the first time and dabbed the pivots I could see. Seems like a front loader so...she was snapped back together and 5 hours later she is still running on my wrist. I added Maintaining and Repairing Mechanical Watches, a Practical Guide by Mark W. Wiles to my ordered books. Three should be a start. The Hans Jendritzki book looks to be a bit harder to source. I added it to my wish list. And yes, the Bulova series and the WWII tech bulletin have been found. The British Horological Institute's Treatise on The Practical Lubrication of Clocks and Watches is also printed and skimmed. But these dang Citizen 0421...perhaps more reading about the balance wheel and escapement. I think this is my area of struggle. Perhaps I should follow the advice, Japanese watches can be hard. Swiss, easier. I lucked into a AS 1586 in a Swiss Caravelle and a ETA 2372 in a Belfonte. They both run but do lose time over 24 hours. Likely gummy inside. I don't tear them down because I fear if I ping something I will be hard pressed to find a replacement. The pocket watch debate. I have a Waltham 1425 movement from 1914 from eBay. Practice movement for my Grandfather's 1425 should I muster the courage. Looks like a lot of parts, screws, pieces. I decided to inventory it and put it away. Await books. Will look for $10 no name Swiss watch movements. Oldhippy. I won't mention my clocks. I have a ST89 waiting as my first test. I have to purchase some spring retainers, build a spring unwind tool, and likely more tools that don't cross over to watches. I have often asked myself if I should start clocks first, then do watches. But....I started watches. And here I am. An ST36 that runs great after three teardowns. And 11DPs that thumb their nose at me. I am trying to keep clocks as a "later" project. -
So this is what the crown should look like as without the washer you won't get the correct seal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173867733552?var=472587544283 https://gleave.london/crown-steel-omega-st42527/ Edit Apologies, it looked like a stem extender but that is how it should look.
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