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In the process of laser engraving the plate, it is crucial to set the correct engraving depth. If the depth is too deep, it may result in a murky pad printing effect, while if it is too shallow, the lines may become disconnected, leading to broken lines. On flat dials without texture, using a harder silicone pad for pad printing will yield better results. The hardness of the silicone pad directly affects the thickness of the lines, and adjusting the hardness appropriately is key to achieving precise printing. Additionally, the ink ratio is another critical factor in successful pad printing. Adding too much thinner will cause the lines to become unclear, while too little thinner may cause the ink to cure too quickly, resulting in broken lines during printing. In summary, laser engraving, silicone pad hardness, and ink ratio are all interrelated, and each step can affect the final result. These steps require extensive practice and experimentation to find the most suitable formula. I hope these insights can provide some useful reference and help! -
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Welcome to the forum, Rick! Cool story! Always appreciate if people take a little more time to introduce themselves. Coincidentally, I spent a few hours this weeks cleaning out the insides of all my staking set punches (a German Boley set) and cleaning everything in the ultrasonic. Not really a restoration, but loved the feeling of seeing the set in full shine again and knowing that I can use it without worrying about clogged punches. There's often threads where members look for buying advice for their first staking sets. Your inputs will certainly be appreciated. -
Hi everyone, Just joined the group in the hope that somebody here may be able to help me. I've been hunting high and low to find a split stem male winder caliber 795 for an Elgin 27 ladies auto watch and have got nowhere. I was wondering if another cal winder could work e.g. 794. It was a birthday present for my wife and the first time I used the winder it broke. Desperate to try anything that would work. Hope you can suggest something. Kind regards Keith Moody -
By SwissSeiko · Posted
I have a taig, which is the cheaper version of a sherline. I also made a tailstock runner. Its best to turn it between centers to get it concentric. As far as a set screw, I would go with a different approach, as any lateral input on the drill bit will shift it slightly and move it out of center. The best option is to turn a bunch of brass sockets for all the bits you have, turn a taper on the end that will go into the tailstock runner, and shellac the drill bit in the socket. Since you already have experience making a runner, you can make another one with an internal taper that matches the external taper you put on the brass sockets. -
By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.
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