Jump to content

Recommended Posts

26 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Errr..... what's that? Denuded pith wood or old cigarette butts?

Pithwood relieved of it's home. I trimmed an old elder tree at the bottom of my garden. The inch and a half branches held a small section of pith at their center so i cut them into 2 inch lengths and forced them out with a pencil. This is what shot out across the lawn with a pop. I just wondered if anyone actually used pithwood, either dry or soaked in benzine. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use it all the time. I like the buttons (now hard to find) for cleaning oilers and pushing pinions into to scrub the leaves. The sticks like the pic are handy for that as well, but the buttons are denser and better for pinions. I use the sticks to wipe off mirror finished parts, cut to a blunt screwdriver shape on the end with a razor, dip in alcohol or benzine and blot on paper, then clean the part. Any remnants blow off easily with a blower. Another similar use would be if some shellac flowed to the top of a pallet fork when adjusting the jewels- plug the fork into a dense button (arbor in button), then as above with alcohol and wipe until the shellac residue is gone. The lower applied shellac remains fine.

 

The sticks vary in size and density. I have some old stuff that's cut square, some that's fluffy and airy, some that's dense.

 

20230530_112711.jpg

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

I use it all the time. I like the buttons (now hard to find) for cleaning oilers and pushing pinions into to scrub the leaves. The sticks like the pic are handy for that as well, but the buttons are denser and better for pinions. I use the sticks to wipe off mirror finished parts, cut to a blunt screwdriver shape on the end with a razor, dip in alcohol or benzine and blot on paper, then clean the part. Any remnants blow off easily with a blower. Another similar use would be if some shellac flowed to the top of a pallet fork when adjusting the jewels- plug the fork into a dense button (arbor in button), then as above with alcohol and wipe until the shellac residue is gone. The lower applied shellac remains fine.

 

The sticks vary in size and density. I have some old stuff that's cut square, some that's fluffy and airy, some that's dense.

The density probably varies with age of the cut branch. These are less than a years growth and are light and fluffy. I read somewhere ages ago about using PIR insulation board as an alternative.  Its foam structure is similar to the light and fluffy of pithwood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, praezis said:

Stewart,

the Indians sell them cheap (e.g. earlier mentioned CTS). They are 10cm long pieces, and you can then cut discs from.

Frank

I've seen some buttons and sticks like you mention, but they were far spongier than the Florida stuff. I haven't seen anything quite like that stuff. I've taken to buying NOS boxes of it now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
×
×
  • Create New...