Jump to content

Did an experiment with my ultrasonic


Recommended Posts

A post on Reddit today got me thinking about how I use Mason jars to clean parts in my ultrasonic cleaner, so I don't have to use a ton of cleaner in the main tank of the ultrasonic.

There was discussion on whether that rendered the ultrasonic cleaning ineffective or not. So I setup this experiment:

All tests had a square of tin foil pressed into the bottom of my cleaning baskets to simulate watch parts. A nut was dropped in just to weight it down. All went through a 90 second cycle in cold tap water. All samples were completely submerged in water to simulate being in cleaning fluid.

  1. Directly in the cleaning tank.
  2. In a stainless bowl.
  3. In a fairly thick-walled plastic gelato container (Talenti caramel cookie crunch)
  4. In a pint size Mason jar
  5. In a thin-walled Solo cup--I didn't have a cup large enough to reasonably accommodate the basket, so it sat rather high in the water. This may invalidate this case.
  6. Directly in the cleaning tank again to make sure #1 wasn't a fluke. Real time video of this happening.

Long story short: only the samples that were directly in the tank of the ultrasonic showed any pitting.

20230518_230843.thumb.jpg.2d6462e1ad9c6f44fda2a4ae88cefff4.jpg20230518_230849.thumb.jpg.5eea3b89a21831a199fc37447966ca74.jpg20230518_231008.thumb.jpg.d179b8b8ab9bdd541e7708fc7ea4c7fd.jpg20230518_231210.thumb.jpg.acca2795e5ef6c79d0a488e7eb06adbb.jpg20230518_231605.thumb.jpg.04040a480e0a9ca8c769f014a2061991.jpg20230518_231408.thumb.jpg.b17c15ddbc0980af4d8c37506abbb399.jpg20230518_231756.thumb.jpg.a0b2eb7779ecc75922878bbd657d5fbc.jpg20230518_230902.thumb.jpg.540a87e1152bd093c1c3d5cdc40a48ee.jpg20230518_232154.thumb.jpg.bf86cb65caf8006c2894c31a377e74bc.jpg20230518_232201.thumb.jpg.b18414e5b8d652d36c2145680216a386.jpg20230518_232202.thumb.jpg.d5f50add9a90096f09f9f265aafa3740.jpg20230518_232206.thumb.jpg.6fbd90a67d5813ef16b8967c992838cf.jpg20230518_232208.thumb.jpg.eacee574d0f6d0060ce556922440134e.jpg20230518_232210.thumb.jpg.bdc83f00e888376ee1fd893bb1e4b4bd.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found that jam jars, mayo jars and mason jars are so thick that insufficient ultrasonic energy gets to the parts. 

I've switched to using stainless steel jars meant for storing tea. The thin stainless walls allow more energy to pass through and clean stubborn grease. Especially inside the barrel.

And another advantage of these stainless jars, it seems to prevent evaporation of the volatile cleaners better. No matter how well sealed a mason jar is, benzine seems to be able to disappear from it.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

Long story short: only the samples that were directly in the tank of the ultrasonic showed any pitting.

Great experiment, I've been using glass jars in my ultrasonic for quite some time, apparently it was not effective. At least I know now 😆.

1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

I found that jam jars, mayo jars and mason jars are so thick that insufficient ultrasonic energy gets to the parts. 

I've switched to using stainless steel jars

Can you provide a picture and link, looks like I need to get some!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use normal glass jam jars in my ultrasonic (60W) with excellent results. Plastic absorbs energy, but glass should be fine - the pro cleaning machines use glass and it looks reasonably thick

image.png.f9e30247e107d8edba64903544f5880f.png 

Edited by mikepilk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

somewhere hidden away in the group is pictures of how I would clean watches at home. A small ultrasonic cleaning machine no idea the wattage. They came with his own glass beaker which of course upsets people because they claim you can't have a glass beaker in the ultrasonic sitting on the transducer. then yes technically you're not supposed to play solid objects on top of the transducer it will conceivably reflect the energy back in and bad things will happen. The same kinda bad things if you let it run too long or certain other things the transducers can shatter and they cannot be glued back together again. Yes I've had people ask if I can fix their broken transducers and no you cannot but this machine came with his ultrasonic and that speaker it was meant for dental or charitable purpose cleaning but it worked perfect for watches

so basically I had the solutions in smaller plastic containers with a tight fitting lid I would just pour the fluid into the beaker run the process take the items out set them on something to wick away the fluid while I'm pouring it back in the beaker pouring the rinse in and off I went it worked perfect. Then digital ultrasonic machines are electronic devices and apparently they don't last forever? No problem I had a spare I picked it up at a garage sale wants and how it suffered the same fate. Fortunately someone gave me a much bigger ultrasonic so I have a piece of corrugated plastic on the bottoms the beakers not on the bottom of the tank and I'm sure it's now like 100 times stronger than it was before but it still claims really beautifully. Despite the popular belief that ultrasonic energy will vaporize watches.

So based on my limited experience you can use beakers in the cleaning machine and I don't think there was any loss of energy that I was aware of or basically I just cleaned really nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. You can use pyrex beakers in an ultrasonic cleaner. Their walls are thinner than a mason jar and the glass is a borosilicate glass. But I wouldn't advise using volatile solvents like benzine and alcohol because it would aerosolize it into the air.

My mentor initially used L&R #111 in a beaker and he said the smell was so bad he had to abort. I use #111 the metal canisters I mentioned with no problem.


https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrVjeO0

When I use a beaker, I either use the wire basket that comes with the ultrasonic cleaner, or the supplied beaker holder.

14 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

The same kinda bad things if you let it run too long or certain other things the transducers can shatter and they cannot be glued back together again.

The heat buildup weakens the adhesive used to bond the transducer to the tank. It's just like heating Loctite to loosen a screw. A dental supplier that I was doing repairs for offered to send me to the factory to learn how to debond, prep the surfaces and bond a new transducer. I didn't take up the offer. But I'm sure YouTube will have videos on how to do that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

benzine and alcohol

fortunately I do not use either one of those. But it does bring up a problem of anything that can evaporate and is flammable is going to be an issue. An open container of lighter fluid for instance it's very popular with this group would be very bad elevating the temperature when cleaning would be even worse because then it definitely will evaporate. Putting a lid on may or may not be in your best interest if the lid goes on super tight. I'm assuming the metal cans that have a lid lid just slides on so something happened it would pop off without exploding you wouldn't want to build up pressure in a sealed glass jar for instance and have it exploded be very unpleasant.

32 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

used L&R #111 in a beaker and he said the smell was so bad he had to abort. I use #111 the metal canisters I mentioned with no problem.

that's the same cleaning fluid that I use it's probably the ammonia that bothers him. you should have him get some of their clock cleaning fluid it needs to be mixed up with water like one part eight I think. I made the mistake of opening that up in the same room that I do the watch cleaning and that stuff is positively lethal it's so strong if I ever open it up again I go outside.

When I'm doing my cleaning with an open beaker I'm not in the same room. You say you set things up and I leave. But if you are sensitive to the ammonia smell especially if the cleaning fluid is really fresh then yes it could be an issue. Then a course is also the problem of when it comes time to dry the watch your using heat evaporating what's left of the solvent and are you breathing that?

This is where I think the newest specifications for cleaning machines are the machine is supposed to be sealed and advance the contents to someplace else I'm guessing either outside or like where I work they goes into several canisters of activated carbon.

32 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

The heat buildup weakens the adhesive used to bond the transducer to the tank.

the several examples of I saw were were the transducers actually exploded. That may not be the right word I think one of the flat transducers had a well it looked like a small explosion the larger transducer I think it actually shattered but somebody greatly tortured it. Apparently he loaned it to his son who is cleaning automotive components or something I'm guessing he play something large and flat on the bottom of the tank. Then the transducer can not be cooled there's no fluid exposure and somewhere I thought there was the possibility reflecting the energy back into the transducer was also bad I don't know how true that is..

Then it would be nice to know how to glue the transducers and fix your machine except you would need a replacement transducer. Then there is the other problem of which I suspect affected my first machine is the electrolytic capacitors don't last forever. They have a time limit of life and they don't you like to get hot either.

 

Edited by JohnR725
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

Then it would be nice to know how to glue the transducers and fix your machine except you would need a replacement transducer.

Transducers and ultrasonic generator boards are available on AliExpress. I just watched a video on how to bond the transducers. It's not difficult. You need to sandblast the bottom of the tank and the surface of the tranducer, then degrease with acetone and bond with epoxy.

I am still using my first ultrasonic cleaner. It's over 30 years old. From doing years of ultrasonic cleaner repairs, I found that 110V versions last way longer than 220V versions. I suspect the back EMF generated exceeded the ratings of the mosfets. The dental lab that I was using had a 110V ultrasonic cleaner that was over 45 years old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's another dimension to this experiment that hasn't been accounted for though: time. If you leave a movement plate in a glass jar in an ultrasonic cleaner long enough, it'll strip the nickel plating right off (guess how I know). 90 seconds sure won't do it, but 90 minutes may leave you without much of a plate left. 

A proposed followup experiment:

- Put foil in the machine until pitting just starts to form (multiple samples preferred for rigor); note required time.

- Put a similar number of identical piece of foil in each container, and repeat with a timer until pitting just starts to form (or matches that in the previous iteration, but that will make the whole experiment take much longer); note required time.

The result should be a rough approximation of the material multiplier for utilizing a smaller amount of cleaning fluid in a container made of Y material. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

If you leave a movement plate in a glass jar in an ultrasonic cleaner long enough, it'll strip the nickel plating right off (guess how I know). 90 seconds sure won't do it, but 90 minutes may leave you without much of a plate left. 

now just a little clarification here what was the fluid you are using?

The reason I bring this up is when I was in school the ultrasonic machine they had had a timer on it 0 to 10 minutes I remember cleaning a pocket watch and oh dear the brass plates are now frosted and required refinishing or polishing. I seen the same thing happen with the water-based ammonia cleaner for clocks the first I may use that I had hot water and it frosted the brass superfast. So typically with the ammonia-based cleaners especially with brass or anything with copper you time-limited

but they didn't know about nickel?

Oh and I had seen a story somewhere where someone went on vacation and left something very expensive in the cleaning machine they came back after a week or two and even without the ultrasonic it'd basically dissolve the plates.

I suppose an interesting experiment to try would be to find a scrap nickel plated watch and put it in a glass beaker in the ultrasonic with the  rinsing solution as I consider that harmless.

May be something to try over the weekend if I remember

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

now just a little clarification here what was the fluid you are using?

L&R. It was my first time using my new ultrasonic, and I had no idea how long to leave it in. My previous such experience involved carburetors and an oral/medical device. I think I did 30 minutes that first go for each of a wash and two rinses.

Edited by spectre6000
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I normally do 10 mins first, then dry and check flat surfaces of jewels and the insides of the barrel under a microscope. If there is still stubborn grease, back it goes for another 5 mins.

Recently I started using a product called Goo Gone to preclean the jewels, keyless and barrel. It's something like orange solvent. Then I'll spin dry the basket and prewash in old benzine. Spin dry then ultrasound in cleaner and 2 rinses.

I don't use an IPA final rinse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

I normally do 10 mins first, then dry and check flat surfaces of jewels and the insides of the barrel under a microscope. If there is still stubborn grease, back it goes for another 5 mins.

Recently I started using a product called Goo Gone to preclean the jewels, keyless and barrel. It's something like orange solvent. Then I'll spin dry the basket and prewash in old benzine. Spin dry then ultrasound in cleaner and 2 rinses.

I don't use an IPA final rinse.

That's interesting. Are you running your bridges through the ultrasonic first and then the watch cleaning machine?

I use Goo Gone on a lot of my watch cases that I bought from a watchmakers estate. He had put a sticker on the back of every watch with the movement caliber written on the sticker. Peeling these 50 year old stickers off the case backs always leaves a thick sticky residue that is tenacious and difficult to remove. Soaking it in Goo Gone for 10-20 minutes first really helps.

Edited by GuyMontag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

That's interesting. Are you running your bridges through the ultrasonic first and then the watch cleaning machine?

No. I made a jar with a bolt through the cover. I put my basket in the jar and fix it to my cordless drill to spin out the excess fluid. This way I save on the solutions and have less contaminated fluid remaining on the parts.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/19/2023 at 12:23 PM, spectre6000 said:

A proposed followup experiment:

An excellent proposition. So my methods were:

  • Square of foil pressed into the bottom of a cleaning basket
  • Steel nut on top just to keep the foil from floating
  • Basket goes into test vessel (or directly into the ultrasonic for the control)
  • Test vessel is filled with enough water that it sits on the bottom of the ultrasonic's basket.
  • Run ultrasonic until first evidence of holes in the foil
  • Each test vessel was run by itself to try to keep things consistent.

Results were interesting:

  • Directly in the ultrasonic: 25 seconds
  • Thin-walled stainless milk pitcher: 200 seconds
  • Thin-walled glass beaker: over 11 minutes and zero pitting
  • Thin-walled plastic takeout container: 70 seconds
  • Thicker-walled plastic gelato container: 180 seconds (have not tested other flavors)
  • Thicker-walled glass Mason jar: 290 seconds

The beaker was the surprising outlier, so I tested it again, and this time came up with 220 seconds. Maybe a weird piece of foil, no idea.

I should do more runs and get more data, but I already stared at my ultrasonic cleaner for an hour.

The test is, of course, a VERY coarse one, and there are definitely questions about its overall usefulness.

That said, I think it's interesting to see. I haven't been super happy with the effectiveness of the 5 minutes in Mason jars I've been doing, so this tells me maybe I should switch to the plastic containers or just clean for longer.

20230521_155411.jpg

20230521_152217.jpg

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

Thin-walled glass beaker: over 11 minutes and zero pitting

one of the observations I used to make what I would put stuff in the ultrasonic is the? Basically when it's doing is thing little bubbles form and you can see them streaming off the item so are you visually seeing anything when it's in the ultrasonic? As I think I would've been concerned if I had looked in it could hear the ultrasonic or whatever your hearing is normally won't hear the frequency but I would've been concerned if I saw nothing happening in the fluid

then it's hard to tell in the pictures. So you have something on the bottom of the tanks you're not placing the beaker directly on the bottom which is what you're supposed to have. Then how much water is surrounding the item in other words how deep is the item in the water?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

then it's hard to tell in the pictures. So you have something on the bottom of the tanks you're not placing the beaker directly on the bottom which is what you're supposed to have. Then how much water is surrounding the item in other words how deep is the item in the water?

Yes, I have the basket the machine came with and all of the vessels sit on top of that. I read that you shouldn't put things like glass directly on the bottom of the machine, so I left the basket in.

But as you say, it looks like I might be mistaken. Looking at one of the manuals from iSonic, they say:
 

Quote

 

Cleaning Method:

  1. Put the item inside a container. Add proper fluid to submerge the area to be cleaned.
  2. Place the container in the tank directly. Add water to a level between MIN and MAX, not over the container.
  3. Turn the power switch on. Press Time button to set the timer to 10 minutes. Press On/Off button twice to start cleaning. Ultrasonic waves will penetrate the container and clean the items.

Selection of container:

  1. Plastic containers – Plastics are soft and will absorb about 30-40% of ultrasound energy and reduce the cleaning effect.
  2. Aluminum containers – Absorbs about 20% of ultrasonic energy.
  3. Glass containers- Absorbs about 15% of ultrasonic energy.
  4. Stainless steel containers – Absorbs about 8% of ultrasonic energy.

 

As for how deep: the level of water in the test vessel is slightly above the level in the tank.

Looks like further testing will be happening 😉

Link to comment
Share on other sites

over the years I would get scolded for doing what I'm doing in the picture

image.png.879d4f07871eca0e807e00e37d56795c.png

the problem is that's what the picture shows for the machine. The just a really tiny will relatively tiny inexpensive machine sold in the drugstore probably clean dentures and jewelry and whatever. The beaker is to go into the tank surrounded by water.

Ideally I found it's better to have more fluid in the beaker then the surrounding water otherwise the beaker would float. Although my floating beaker is going to a better than yours because yours are probably tip over this won't.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome! I love these sorts of practical science experiments!

To put it in order of required duration for analysis:

Quote

 

Directly in the ultrasonic: 25 seconds

Thin-walled plastic takeout container: 70 seconds

Thicker-walled plastic gelato container: 180 seconds (have not tested other flavors)

Thin-walled stainless milk pitcher: 200 seconds

Thin-walled glass beaker: 220 seconds

Thicker-walled glass Mason jar: 290 seconds

 

And then:

Quote

 

Plastic containers – Plastics are soft and will absorb about 30-40% of ultrasound energy and reduce the cleaning effect.

Aluminum containers – Absorbs about 20% of ultrasonic energy.

Glass containers- Absorbs about 15% of ultrasonic energy.

Stainless steel containers – Absorbs about 8% of ultrasonic energy.

 

Manual does not compute with actual, but the small sample size (n=1?) likely comes into play. Their percentage figures are obviously pretty wild ballparks, as different plastic thicknesses, formulations, and shapes will all have a hand in changing that 30-40% figure. Ignoring that, the stainless/glass relationship holds up at least at the macro level; the percentages don't come close to lining up. 

So... Takeaway... I think the cleaning fluid in a jar approach stands up, you just have to make sure you're giving it enough time. As expensive as cleaning fluid is, I think the benefit of not going through so much so quickly far outweighs the few extra minutes it takes sitting in the cleaner. I don't know how pitting aluminum foil compares to de-griming 3mm of nickel plated brass, but this at least establishes a general relationship. I've been doing 5 minutes for each of three cycles (wash/rinse 1/rinse 2) with 2 oz mason jars, and that looks like enough to pit aluminum (in your cleaner at least, my Chinesium ultrasonic may or may not be similar), so it is probably doing at least something; the actual results are clean movements, so... There's that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Wow just came across this thread while looking for info on different ultrasonic watch cleaning solutions.

I recently put my ultrasonic through the foil test but did it with the foil directly in the basket (with warmed fresh water which in the tank). Ultrasonic seems to work fine but probably not as well as some less expensive models I’ve seen do this on YouTube(I’m 2 year old gemoro model from cas-ker. Has already been repaired once under warranty but did cost me $25 shipping, so no bargain).

im going to try the rest using my jelly jars (which is use now with the lids on. I also have beakers but don’t think I’d ever use them for ultrasonic since I don’t have lids.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve never tried to clean aluminum foil but parts loaded into tea baskets then placed in the ultrasonic basket easily works the best in my experience. Cleaning product expense becomes an issue but I switched to Liquinox which seems to clean the best and is dirt cheap…

Edited by rehajm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, rehajm said:

I’ve never tried to clean aluminum foul but parts loaded into tea baskets then placed in the ultrasonic basket easily works the best in my experience. Cleaning product expense becomes an issue but I switched to Liquinox which seems to clean the best and is dirt cheap…

I’m going to try Liquinox when my current supply of Zenith cleaning and rinse solution runs out. Currently I put the parts in those screw together round baskets and drop them into Zenith watchmaker cleaner and rinse in covered jelly jars that sit in the ultrasonic tank filled with clean water re: smell and cost—if I had an affordable solution I’d put baskets directly in a solution of Liquinox in tank and rinse in IPA. Current situation works well enough as long as I pre-clean really gunky stuff off parts (like barrel walls etc). But the cost coupled with the smell of handling an ammonia based product (even a low odor one), in a small space is a challenge

33 minutes ago, Levine98 said:

I’m going to try Liquinox when my current supply of Zenith cleaning and rinse solution runs out. Currently I put the parts in those screw together round baskets and drop them into Zenith watchmaker cleaner and rinse in covered jelly jars that sit in the ultrasonic tank filled with clean water re: smell and cost—if I had an affordable solution I’d put baskets directly in a solution of Liquinox in tank and rinse in IPA. Current situation works well enough as long as I pre-clean really gunky stuff off parts (like barrel walls etc). But the cost coupled with the smell of handling an ammonia based product (even a low odor one), in a small space is a challenge

The one think I do like about Zenith is it is not water based and so don’t worry about rusting parts or oxidizing brass plates. I just use a hand dryer about 5 minutes waved over the round baskets after the second rinse and the parts come out very clean and dry.

the only things I don’t put in the zenith solution and ultrasonic are the pallet fork, balance complete and jewels — I hand clean in Ronson lighter fluid with a soft paint brush and dip rinse in IPA. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

This is an interesting thread.  I am trying to setup a methodology solely for Accutrons.  Since the manual says to use ultrasonic, I have to deviate from my L&R Master cleaning system that I use for mechanical watches.  And I just rebuilt another one for my remote location where I will be doing this work...oh well.

The last few days I have been working on two "learner" accutrons.  My method is to use the L&R Fine (which is all that I have) in a mason jar and then in my ultrasonic (small jewelry type).  I run two short cycles, then do a pre rinse in L&R rinse and then a final rinse in same.  Then I take the parts out and set them under an incandescent lamp (60 watt) to dry.  I also puff off the parts to accelerate evaporation.  I treat the pawl and index fingers separately by dunking them in one-dip.  My glass cup is too small for the tuning fork, so I just squirt one-dip with a syringe.  A kludge for now.  I also dip the index wheel in one-dip.  This seems to work.  I have ordered some petri dishes that are larger and will allow the tuning fork to immerse fully.  I know that some suggest putting all of this in the ultrasonic, but I am not ready for that yet.

In a perfect world, I would have jars that accommodated my L&R basket.  That way, I could put the parts in that and on the last step, I could use my L&R Master to do the drying.  I am looking for the appropriate jar.

Am I overthinking all of this.  Perhaps. But, I have about 50 of these to repair, so it is worth the effort to design a really nice process.

On a side note, the two watches I have worked on had crappy black residue and one had the seep second stuck with the black crap.  I think it is the molybdenum disulfide that Accutron recommends...dries up resulting in bad things.  I will not use the recommended oil, but will instead use MolyKote for those places.  I see no reason why not.

I am gonna order some L&R 566 and associated rinse for the long haul, but I used what I had this first round.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try an inexpensive dehydrator for your drying cycle. Parts baskets can be set right on the tray and you can set the temp and turn things over 1 time (or more) so you can prep the next step as the parts dry without having to stand over it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hold the crown when in winding position, move the click away from the crown wheel, and then while holding the crown let it slowly unwind. I recollect that you must remove the automatic device bridge first, but maybe I'm wrong. You can first try without removing the automatic device bridge.
    • nevenbekriev- You nailed it with your description of me and my reaction when the clock started ticking again. I am a newbie.  I love the sound and idea of mechanical clocks but the idea of owning one and trying to keep them running has never appealed to me. My wife bought this one and an antique German wall clock.  When I looked into having someone repair them for me, the universal response was "it's really expensive to work on them, you should just replace the movement". So, I had nothing to lose, I started researching them and opened them up. The wife is happy because she hears the sound of the clocks again. But I have gone down the "accuracy" rabbit hole. In the vertical position, the balance wheel was not floating. It was sitting on the bottom of the frame. I adjusted the lower spring collet and got it floating. It easily passed the 270 degree 3 to 5 minute oscillation test. It took 8 minutes for the wheel to completely stop moving.  I put it the unit back in the movement and checked the safety pin. It does not touch the safety roller anywhere in +/-270 degrees rotation from neutral position. But the amplitude of the rotation with the spring fully wound is weak based on what you are saying. It rotates +/-90 degrees from the neutral position.  No, I did not take the movement completely apart.  That seemed way outside my skill set at the time. There is a reason I became an electrical engineer and not a mechanical engineer. I am much more comfortable with moving electrons than tiny moving metal parts. Will I do it in the long run? Anything can happen. I don't seem to be able to let it go.
    • Isn't that the same guy who told Zelenskyy to escalate the war with Russia/Putin when they already had a peace deal? 2 years later and we have half a million young Ukranian boys dead. He doesn't seem very clever...
    • Thanks guys.  quick question. For automatic movement, particularly this one. can I power down the main spring by pushing this rachet down?  i've gotten pretty used to SW210 and powering down a manual movement. But so far i've only been waiting for the auto movement to run out of juice before opening the case.     
×
×
  • Create New...