Jump to content

I'm Going To Super Glue The Darned Loupe -


dadistic

Recommended Posts

I have a B&L 4X watchmakers loupe that I've been trying to use for some time, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to keep the darned thing in my eye. Is there some kind of secret watchmakers trick that no one talks about, so that the real watchmakers can laugh at the novices?

 

It would be funny watching the loupe bounce all over the place, except it invariably seems to bang right on the balance, and I'm getting tired of my heart stopping every time that happens!

 

If someone would send some clues my way I would greatly appreciate it!

 

Thanks,

 

David S, flinger of wedge pins and mangler of hairsprings

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I've thought about that. I also have a couple of visors that I use. I swear though, I've seen video of people using the loupes where it looks like the loupe is stuck to their face, and I can't figure out how they do it :-)

 

Thanks!

 

David S - ping ping ping, ricochet rabbit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know, that guy has a fat face (no insult intended). When I do what he does, the loupe just slides out either the top or the bottom, and forget tilting the head.

 

Oh well, maybe the headband *is* the answer if I really want to use a loupe.

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I attach a clip-on lens to the sidebar of my specs - works a treat, but it's not worth getting specs just for that!

How about this Willfly, I wear glasses all the time, I have done from the age of about 4 but when it came to watch/clockmaking I never wore them with an eye glass I found I could see better without. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought the cheapest pair of glasses I could find (from Aldi), pushed the lenses out and fitted the clip on lens to the arm. Works a treat and I find it much more comfortable than a loupe.

Good idea! I like it!

 

Will

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that different loupes fit me differently. B&L seem to stay in my eye really well, but I prefer the view of my Asco loupes. They're a bit bigger and so fall out easily. I feel I should try to take the time to learn to hold them without a head band, but I've got too many other things to worry about when I'm wrecking working on a watch. So I use the headband.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find that the best method is to simply position it in your eye so that the natural tension of your skin holds it while your face muscles are relaxed.

So touch the eyeglass to the bottom of your eye, slightly before where you want it to sit, 'hook' the edge of the eye glass into that bit of skin, then do the same at the top of your eye, done right, and with a little practice you can keep a loupe in your eye while keeping your face totally relaxed and passive, no effort required.
That's not to say my eyeglass never falls out, silly things like that will happen once in a while even with experience, which is why I think a lot of very experienced and highly trained watchmakers, even the Swiss watchmakers, often opt to use the headband/holders, because your eyeglass falling out is just a concern you don't need when working on something very complex and delicate.

In my work capacity I'm sitting down, standing up and being interrupted so frequently I can't justify the faffing about it takes to use a holder (saves me precious milliseconds), but they are good.

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find that the best method is to simply position it in your eye so that the natural tension of your skin holds it while your face muscles are relaxed.

So touch the eyeglass to the bottom of your eye, slightly before where you want it to sit, 'hook' the edge of the eye glass into that bit of skin, then do the same at the top of your eye, done right, and with a little practice you can keep a loupe in your eye while keeping your face totally relaxed and passive, no effort required.

That's not to say my eyeglass never falls out, silly things like that will happen once in a while even with experience, which is why I think a lot of very experienced and highly trained watchmakers, even the Swiss watchmakers, often opt to use the headband/holders, because your eyeglass falling out is just a concern you don't need when working on something very complex and delicate.

In my work capacity I'm sitting down, standing up and being interrupted so frequently I can't justify the faffing about it takes to use a holder (saves me precious milliseconds), but they are good.

Ishima,

 

An excellent write up.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, very helpful. This is the kind of advice I was hoping for, thanks everyone. It looks like I'm going to be getting a holder, as I have a lean face and I don't think there is enough there to hold the loupe. I'll practice some more, but I think loupe by itself may be a lost cause. :)

Edited by dadistic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried to fashion my own using some wire but that was a disaster.  I actually found a really great way to do it that doesn't include using the loop wire:

 

  1. Grab a simple LED headlamp. You may already have one.  They typically have an adjustable stretch band.  Something like this:  http://www.harborfreight.com/five-led-magnetic-head-lamp-93549.html  
  2. Remove the lamp part and place the flexible band flat on the table
  3. Then with some sharp scissors cut a slightly smaller than half-inch slit at the folded end lengthwise.  Since it's folded over, it will create a less than one-inch slit.
  4. Take your loupe and squeeze it into the slit
  5. Adjust the band so it's not too tight and pull it over your eye.  It will not move, I guarantee.

 

You're good to go.

 

-A

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need a loupe headband.

Loupe%20headband.jpg

 

Well, I got myself one of these and have been using it with a 4X loupe and comparing it to my 3.5X Optivisor. The band works great with the loupe, it stays in place nicely and is comfortable. The loupe works better for some things, but I still find myself going back to the Optivisor and my other 2.2X visor when I want a wider field of view or a little more distance from whatever I'm working on.  The band is well worth the ~$5.00 I spent on it. Thanks again, all!

 

David S - Barney Google with the googly eyes

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for the help guys! VWatchie I already found your thread but I'll check it again. Nice to know about acetone, I still have to get the shellac off since I made a little mess. I adjusted the jewel, put new shellac (the so called soldering technique, pallet tool too hot this time so the shellac "wire" melted in air before getting in contact with jewels or fork) rinsed the pallet fork and put it back dry. Amplitude is now in the 240-250 range that I expected in the first place. I guess there's enough oil in the escape wheel teeth already but I'll check that later. The mainspring was pretty beaten so a new one would probably boost the amplitude even further. Nice to learn new things. Now I have another thing to look for while disassembling. I wonder if the watch left the factory that way. 
    • Would be interesting to see it 🙂
    • These are all American movements (with the exception of the "Rubis"), and are all almost certainly "negative set" which means the stem is part of the case. So it's normal that they are all missing- they are with their cases. You will need male square bench keys to wind/disarm them. Vintagewatchstraps has a great writeup on the different systems. But basically, any American "x" size movement will fit any case for that size, possibly with some adjusting of the stem position. With Swiss movements, there is some interchangeability between calibers, usually within the same maker's range, but not really overall- there are thousands of different stems out there.
    • Hi, I'm very new to watchmaking and this is my first time posting here.  I've bought a lot of 10 vintage pocket watches size 0s from e-bay and just got them today.  Most of the balance wheels sprung quite freely and thus seemed like a worthy endeavor as a first batch for exploration.  I've just realized that none of them have any winding stems. Is there any way I could source appropriate winding stems for the movements? There seems to be assortments of various stems selling in bulk on aliexpress, but would any of them fit?  I've read on other threads that some people lathe their own stems (which is waaaay out of my current skill set, which is pretty much nil). Others say that you 'just have to try a few and see if they fit'. I would much appreciate any advice for this matter. Thanks!
    • Nice work.  In the last year, I have been servicing Accutron 218s.  I have the official Accutron hoder that provides electrical contact to the movement.  It is a pretty clever design.  There is a cut in the ring of the holder (shaped like a "C").  When in relaxed state, the holder is slightly smaller than the watch movement.  You spread the cut slightly and drop the movement in and release.  Very clean.  I have made 3D versions of this setup.  Have not explored using it generally for other movements.
×
×
  • Create New...