Jump to content

Vintage ladies watch rectangular ~19.5x1.3mm


Recommended Posts

Hello ladies and gentlemen, 

I'd be grateful if anyone could identify this movement from a very old ladies watch. No shock protection system. Roughly 19.5 x 13mm rectangular. 15 jewels. Can't find any manufacturer logo/name on the movement (I disassembled it fully). 

The balance staff is broken and I'm trying to find a replacement. 

Lorsa 514 looks similar, but is more modern with shock springs. My dream would be if the whole balance assembly (including the cock) of the Lorsa 514 would fit on my movement , but I guess it's unlikely (http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Lorsa_514). 

20230217_163141.jpg

20230326_222736.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, clockboy said:

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.

It looks like a Mido 502 (Peseux 140)

Thanks for the input! 

Looks similar, I agree, but the size doesn't match (16x11.55mm according to Ranfft). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks a lot like an FEF 150 (Fleurier).

 

 

20230328_155759.jpg

 

 

Or a Buren 35

 

20230328_160422.jpg

 

Actually it must be Buren, the movement side is pretty dead-on, but maybe a slightly different caliber? Ranfft doesn't have much for them in the form movements.

 

 

Buren_35.jpg

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you @nickelsilver !

Definitely close! The differences may just be superficial/decorative (differences in train bridge and balance cock shape). For me, the question is if I'd find the exact spare part for the exact movement (balance staff, ideally with spring or even entire cock). Or if I should just find another movement entirely that fits into the watch. The Lorsa 514 would then fit well (by it's external dimensions) and it's dirt-cheap on eBay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Knebo said:

Thank you @nickelsilver !

Definitely close! The differences may just be superficial/decorative (differences in train bridge and balance cock shape). For me, the question is if I'd find the exact spare part for the exact movement (balance staff, ideally with spring or even entire cock). Or if I should just find another movement entirely that fits into the watch. The Lorsa 514 would then fit well (by it's external dimensions) and it's dirt-cheap on eBay.

Not so fast- (didn't realize how many makers made this shape)- it actually appears to be a Nouvelle Fabrique (Tavannes) S.A.

 

 

20230328_162733.jpg

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Knebo said:

Oh wow, that does look right! You're a hero.

Amazing reference book you have there!! What is that?

It's two volume set out of Switzerland, not all-encompassing but lots of info. More easily found is the "Bestfit" book, from the U.S.

 

 

20230328_174200.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Actually it must be Buren, the movement side is pretty dead-on, but maybe a slightly different caliber? Ranfft doesn't have much for them in the form movements.

 

5 hours ago, Knebo said:

balance staff

 

2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

More easily found is the "Bestfit" book, from the U.S.

The problem with the best fit book is it only includes the watches imported into the US that means conceivably a heck of a lot of watches that you will not find. Also it's kind of time restricted depending upon which the volume of the book you have. So the current version we download is only really the 60s and the 70s and this watch is probably prior so you might need an earlier book.

Then there's another way to possibly verify this if you're replacing the balance staff you can measure the old one and there's references we can look up staffs sizes and see what staff matches the size you have. The same as the stem you can measure the stem and see which watches use a similar stem size. They're not as nice as the fingerprint system at least for the stem but much better for the balance staff especially if that's what you need to get one the same size.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/28/2023 at 7:52 PM, nickelsilver said:

It's two volume set out of Switzerland, not all-encompassing but lots of info. More easily found is the "Bestfit" book, from the U.S.

Well, I live in Switzerland, so maybe I'll eventually get my hands on one of those 🙂

On 3/28/2023 at 9:55 PM, JohnR725 said:

Then there's another way to possibly verify this if you're replacing the balance staff you can measure the old one and there's references we can look up staffs sizes and see what staff matches the size you have. The same as the stem you can measure the stem and see which watches use a similar stem size. They're not as nice as the fingerprint system at least for the stem but much better for the balance staff especially if that's what you need to get one the same size.

That's true, good suggestion. But first, I'll need to get a better caliper for that. Mine was a gift and it's not precise enough for this task, I think.

It would be quite a thrill to disassemble/reassemble the whole balance.. not sure I'm there yet with my skills (and tools...). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Knebo said:

Well, I live in Switzerland, so maybe I'll eventually get my hands on one of those

that's an interesting country you live in. I heard a rumor that they might manufacturer watches their in fact rumor has it they been doing it for a very long time. That means conceivably tools materials supplies can be found in shops. Unless of course it's all going to eBay now but I'm guessing at one time you could find nifty stuff in shops.

Perhaps as nickelsilver appears to live in the same country could enlighten us as to whether there still shops selling used tools and supplies?  unless of course they've embraced eBay and it all disappears the eBay.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
    • I printed the base and it is a bit too large to fit on the base of the hand setter. The ring bumps into the column so it is unable to full seat on the central ring. I'm going to try removing some of the materal and see if I can't get it to go down.
×
×
  • Create New...