Jump to content

Wheel Plating


Recommended Posts

I am aware brass mainplates and bridges get nickel + rhodium plated after finishing and decoration, but what is done with the wheels? I have seen a single source refer to this by saying the gear blanks are plated before tooth cutting, and a single video where they are plated after cutting (I'm fairly sure this approach is wrong, as the plating would come off the meshing surfaces and goop between the wheels.) No other watchmaking or repair resource I have found mentions the topic, but cannot imagine that Patek, for example, leaves their wheels untreated as they would tarnish. I have also seen a few movement manufacturers move on to using copper beryllium alloys for wheels instead of brass, but could not find any information whatsoever as to the specific alloy or finishing techniques used for that. Is there anyone here who could help clear this up for me?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think they are ever plated, just machined from solid brass alloys, or gold etc.

See them being hand made : 

 

I've just stripped and Omega 620, so the wheels are a coppery colour to match the mainplate and bridges. I assume it's a brass alloy with more copper in to get the colour.  

Edited by mikepilk
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Generally speaking they are plated except for very cheap movements. Ideally they are plated before cutting the teeth, but not always, and it's not really an issue except for barrel teeth where there's just a whole lot of power. Beryllium copper is used for some watch gearing, yes, but only where needed- it is closer to steel in general strength and wear resistance than copper. But it too needs plating or it can turn quite dark. It would often be seen in autowind components or in some cases even ratchet wheels.

 

On old watches, like over 100 years old, if you look around the union of the pinion and wheel, you will often see dark tarnished brass. Back then (in Switzerland at least), wheels were cut oversize, then mounted on their pinion. In some cases the teeth were simple saw gashes, or they could be roughly formed. They were fit up with the mating pinion in a depthing tool and finished to size in a topping or rounding up tool. Finally, they were plated- but the steel pinion would be protected with a lacquer, thus the dark area of brass right at the mounted pinion.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if they're gold plated then, as the color is closer to raw brass - I've never seen a rhodium plated/white going train, I don't think. And yes, neither Smith nor Daniels mention the subject at all, which is partly how I got confused in the first place. I'm sure if I could ask Smith he'd have an interesting answer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, mikepilk said:

I've just stripped and Omega 620, so the wheels are a coppery colour to match the mainplate and bridges.

I've not had the bridges off the 620 I have but if you look closely you might see a wheel or two. Not nearly as brilliant as the bridges.

running 620.jpg

Edited by grsnovi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Generally gold plated, could be rhodium or whatever. I worked on a bunch of Harry Winston Opus 7 pieces where the main wheel (3 wheel gear train) was blue. Inside of teeth not blue; those were expensive to make as there was a lot of beveling and graining to do before cutting the teeth- then cut the teeth without blemishing the finish.

 

Often dial side gearing like minute and hour wheel don't get plated, even on higher grade stuff.

 

 

 

Harry_Winston_OPUS_7-17__51071.jpg

Omega bridges plates and (sometimes) wheels were plated with a proprietary "recipe" for the copper color. I've read that tests have proven it's pure copper plate, but in my experience next to impossible to replicate with pure copper. But there are a LOT of variables in plating.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, grsnovi said:

I've not had the bridges off the 620 I have but if you look closely you might see a wheel or two. Not nearly as brilliant as the bridges.

 

It's hard to tell from the pic with the way the light reflects, but they look the same colour to my eyes 😀

(and that's before cleaning)

 

WIN_20230318_23_27_40_Pro.thumb.jpg.6f659ce2bf993e3dad236873581f87c1.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
×
×
  • Create New...