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I've watched some videos today, I really am clueless, I thought the gong was a compensation device like a Bourdon tube. Hehe. 

My first questions: the paint on the hands is flaking, do I remove and repaint?  Does the colour matter?  What type of paint.  How do I remove the dial without damage?  Do I renovate the whole case and reapply the Smiths Enfield decal? 

The gong has some light rust, do I soak it in rust remover?

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I think what you're asking is subjective and personal preference. Your clock looks rather fine indeed certainly better than some of mine I've practiced on. It doesn't appear to be rough shape cosmetically by any means.

Do you intend to return to factory fresh or retain some of the patina/character?

 

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I would just wipe it with a rag and a little oil. Hands can if you wish be painted it is up to you. As its your first clock you might just like to see what sort of a job you make of it. I have found a video for you, I know of the person and I do not like some of what he does so I will make notes of what I consider to be bad, but I need to watch the whole thing first.

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Hi Richard, when I do clocks , mine or other peoples I like to retain the patina and knocks and bruises they sustained in life. The movement is somewhat different and I like to restore it to working order. So you have an original clock and case. I have seen some back to factory condition and they always look false to me.  But it’s your clock and your descision as to how you want it. The case looks ok and would look better for a rubdown with beeswax and a buff up,  Clean the gong with fine wire wool and polish it with oil and a rag. On the Smiths the hands are the same colour as the chapter ring with the numerals. A creamy white as it ages. The chapter ring is removed by pulling the pins out that hold it , for that I use some modified top cutters. As it’s your first clock take your time and probably tak it to bits several times to get used the rebuilding, they can be as frustrating getting all the wheels into position as watches and as watches check as you go. Good luck

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Hi. There are clock support  legs available on eBay or on yeggi for three D printing.  They support the front plate on three stilts whilst you assemble the movement, it keeps the front clear of the bench.  With a bit of ingenuity you could make your own from half inch brass rod and some bolts.

 

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Hi if the plates have been lacquered and the stain is under the lacquer, the lacquer has to be removed. I polish the plates with brass wadding as it’s kinder and doesn’t scratch the brass, then you need to re lacquer the plates. Old watch makers used a chalk block, charging the brush with the chalk then brushing the plate. They need cleaning after in soapy water an drying very well.

When you have the clock in bits check all the piHi if the plates have been lacquered and the stain is under the lacquer, the lacquer has to be removed. I polish the plates with brass wadding as it’s kinder and doesn’t scratch the brass, then y the plates. Old watch makers used a chalk block, charging the brush with the chalk then brushing the plate. They need cleaning after in soapy water an drying very well.  Whilst the clock is in bits check all the pivot holes and pivots for wear, some may require bushing and don’t forget to peg the pivot holes.

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Those clock plate legs are a waste of money. Get yourself a piece of tube just under the size of the width of the plate and about 3 inches high. 

Get your self horolene clock cleaner that will take the tarnish off. With these movements there is no need to chalk brush. Just clean and oil the movement. Chalk brushing stops tarnishing but this method is used on clock movements that are visible such as French Carriage Clocks, Skeleton clocks to name just two.    

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Hi the average wage at that time was £10 to £13 pounds a week so based on that between £2.10 shillings and £3.10 shillings I am old enough to remember those dates. A gallon of petrol was about 2 shillings a beer  9 pence fish and chips about 1and sixpence . A life time ago.

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Here is a video on how to take your clock apart. Watch it on youtube to see my comment. Read the comment first from old timer (me) He is not a person I recommend. If you are not sure about something please ask. 

 

 

Edited by oldhippy
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First mistake.  The tube idea to support the movement is great but doesn't hold the movement firmly whilst letting down the mainsprings.  I'm scared for life and need a week off.  Hehe.  What's the correct way of letting down the mainspring  

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Are these parts friction fit?  I assume they need removing before I can continue disassembly. 

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Sorry I should have said the tube is good for assembling the movement. I never thought you would try and let the springs down with the movement on it (would you like me to send you a bandage) 🤣 Get yourself a set of let down keys. With these you find the one that best fits the arbor, go as if to wind it holding the key very tightly and release the click as the winder is round let it run down in you hand until all the power is released. 

Here is a link to the tool. Go for the one that is just over £21 as it has all you ill ever need. 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/mainspring-let-down-winders

 

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2 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Sorry I should have said the tube is good for assembling the movement. I never thought you would try and let the springs down with the movement on it (would you like me to send you a bandage) 🤣 Get yourself a set of let down keys. With these you find the one that best fits the arbor, go as if to wind it holding the key very tightly and release the click as the winder is round let it run down in you hand until all the power is released. 

Here is a link to the tool. Go for the one that is just over £21 as it has all you ill ever need. 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/mainspring-let-down-winders

 

Thanks, I'm sure I'll live.  Hehe. 

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5 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Good chap. 👍

I'm actually quite intelligent but you wouldn't think so sometimes.  I can be a total idiot.  🤣

The staining is under the lacquer, I  know it's not seen but I want it looking good.  Best way to remove the lacquer  ?

The staining is under the lacquer, I  know it's not seen but I want it looking good.  Best way to remove the lacquer  ?

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Hi Richard for removing the lacquer just use Nitromors,  you can buy it at any hardware store cousins sell it  for £7 but Iam sure you can get it cheaper.  Once the power is removed you need to remove the clamps and the click just pulls off the arbour . Be careful when dismantling to keep the going side in one pot and the strike in an other and the front plate levers in yet another so as not to confuse yourself.  To let down the mainsprings the clock must be firmly based, the power is then taken up and the click pawl released and the power allowed to dissipate using you hand holding the letdown as a brake. As long as us do that no chance of blood letting, if the movement slips due to being in sufficiently held you found the result.  The tube or legs will enable the rebuilding as long as it’s stable.  Have you got a mainspring winder as it’s required to remove and replace the spring safely to avoid a repeat as springs have intense power if unleashed carelessly.  Winders are easily made just look up DIY clock mainspring winders, not everyone can afford Bergeron or Olly Baker. Even a UK designed one ( Baker clone) costs £500.

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