Jump to content

Beginners clocks


Recommended Posts

57 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Richard.  The center can is best left alone unless the pivot hole is worn then it needs removing using large levers as does the kidney cam(gathering pallet) to be correct.   A pair of levers or a puller, I use levers and have no problems.

Thanks, I've read that nitromors won't affect steel, is that true, if I leave the centre wheel and gathering pallet in place? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Richard  It will remove paints, varnish Lacquers from many surfaces, I have used it on steel, wood and brass with no problems but you mut clean it all off thoroughly. I use warm soapy water then dry well to remove all moisture once done clean the clock in the normal way.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Horolacq is what I always use on French Carriage Clock movements and cases. You need to get the clear, also a nice very fine paint artist brush flat style if possible. This stuff drys very quick, be careful not to handle parts with your fingers wear finger cots if you can. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Harris MK1 clock mainspring winder is underway, photos to follow.  So far £0 but I may have to go mad and spend £20 to finish it. Hehe. 

What's the best way of cleaning the bottom/ dial side plate?  Terminology?  I usually use lighter fluid followed by IPA, it would cost a fortune, could I use petrol, followed by IPA? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, oldhippy said:

Do you mean the main plate behind the dial? If yes petrol will be fine. I hope you haven't wasted your money on that mainspring winder a good one is not cheap £20 my mind boggles. 

Might end up at £30, I'm going crazy.  Thanks for the help. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Might end up at £30, I'm going crazy.  Thanks for the help. 

What sort of mainspring winder have you bought for £20 as oldhippy says they are not cheap, have you got the capture rings for the mainspring with it, what make is it and did you buy it from ebay?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Willow said:

What sort of mainspring winder have you bought for £20 as oldhippy says they are not cheap, have you got the capture rings for the mainspring with it, what make is it and did you buy it from ebay?

I'm making my own, I'll post pictures when finished. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, after the conversation about quality tools!!!! 

Not finished and very crude but it worked well. I attached the barrel to some wood with a plastic clip and held that in a  vise as a temporarymeasure.

The ratchet is removable and I can utilise different sizes of socket from the let down tool. 

20230331_132247.jpg

20230331_132254.jpg

20230331_140142.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Richard   well done I like the design simple yet effctive, what did you use for the retainer, it worked well.

By the way I believe the watch (Half Hunter) is by A Schild maybe a 168 ?  inported by George Stockwell  who was a major importer at the time,  more to do.

Thank you, an advanced member like you appreciative it, means a lot.  Keep me updated on the half hunter. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
×
×
  • Create New...