Jump to content

Carriage Clock help


tyl

Recommended Posts

The winder to wind up the movement unscrews and the hand set just pulls off. It would have been helpful to others to have shown the back of the clock members would have been able to see what you are referring to.

These movements tend to wear because the spring is so powerful, the great wheel next to the barrel is normally the problem the hole wears and the pivot wears too. The other main problem is the balance pivots they become blunt and need to be re-pointed in a lathe in order for the balance wheel to have a good action.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the quick response.   The clock winds counterclockwise.  Therefore you are saying that the winder has reverse threads?  That is I wind it clockwise to unscrew the winder?  I tried that and it is so tight that I was afraid I might break the winder (tried this prior to your kind response).  Should I put some WD40 on the winder and try again?

 

Pic of the rear is attached.

 

Again, appreciate your response.

Schatz carriage clock rear.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  If it remains tight try warming the key head with a soldering Iron, if it has been glued or loctited on it will help to release the glue. keep trying after each application.  If it winds counter clockwise the key should unscrew clockwise. As OldHippy said they are not normally that tight so be careful.   cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good info.  Interesting point - the clock is running now after adjusting the fast/slow pointer on the front of the clock.  However it runs a bit fast.  By experimentation I have found that the clock will not run if I move the pointer either way - toward faster or toward slower.  So I have to set it back about 5 minutes each morning.  I realize that is a lot of adjustment but at least it runs now.  

 

Wife says to leave well enough alone.  I am guessing that the brass plate hole (holding the speed adjustment spindle) is no longer perfectly round and that a sweet spot now exists where the clock runs but does not keep time perfectly.  And cannot be repaired by a novice.

 

Again thanks for your help; much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thursday - 8AM.  The clock has run for two days now but gains 10 minutes over a 12 hour period.  Have not removed it from the case to oil.  Reluctant to adjust the pointer to make it run slower; the last time I did this the clock stopped running (took two days adjusting the pointer to get it to run again).  Will continue to monitor and report.  

 

 

Good info.  Interesting point - the clock is running now after adjusting the fast/slow pointer on the front of the clock.  However it runs a bit fast.  By experimentation I have found that the clock will not run if I move the pointer either way - toward faster or toward slower.  So I have to set it back about 5 minutes each morning.  I realize that is a lot of adjustment but at least it runs now.  

 

Wife says to leave well enough alone.  I am guessing that the brass plate hole (holding the speed adjustment spindle) is no longer perfectly round and that a sweet spot now exists where the clock runs but does not keep time perfectly.  And cannot be repaired by a novice.

 

Again thanks for your help; much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thursday -noon.   Good advice.

 

Thx.

 

 

Thursday - 8AM.  The clock has run for two days now but gains 10 minutes over a 12 hour period.  Have not removed it from the case to oil.  Reluctant to adjust the pointer to make it run slower; the last time I did this the clock stopped running (took two days adjusting the pointer to get it to run again).  Will continue to monitor and report.  

 

 

Good info.  Interesting point - the clock is running now after adjusting the fast/slow pointer on the front of the clock.  However it runs a bit fast.  By experimentation I have found that the clock will not run if I move the pointer either way - toward faster or toward slower.  So I have to set it back about 5 minutes each morning.  I realize that is a lot of adjustment but at least it runs now.  

 

Wife says to leave well enough alone.  I am guessing that the brass plate hole (holding the speed adjustment spindle) is no longer perfectly round and that a sweet spot now exists where the clock runs but does not keep time perfectly.  And cannot be repaired by a novice.

 

Again thanks for your help; much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The clock was removed and inspected.  None of the apertures in the back brass plate shows any dirt like I have seen in online videos.  I lightly oiled each from the back and did not remove the faceplate fearing I could not get it back together and working.  After a few days of constant running, I moved the timing adjuster (regulator?) to the right or toward the minus sign to make it run slower.  

Bad idea.  It stopped running immediately although I had only moved the adjuster about three-eights inch to the right or toward the minus sign.  Over two days I moved it slowly back to the left in very small increments until it started to run again.  It is running again with the adjuster approximately one-eight inch past (to the right of)  the high noon mark and it gains about ten minutes per day.  Video attached shows it running and the adjuster should be clearly seen (it pivots from the center of the spring fed wheel.

Why will it not run adjusted toward slowing the mechanism?  Any idea would be appreciated.  

And I appreciate your comments.  

Oh no, looks like this forum may not accept a video.  Still trying.  Not possible, regrets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds to me that it is possible the hairspring isn't free in the regulator and when you move it it is infringing the hairspring.  Check that the hairspring is free in the regulator no mater where the regulator is, hairspring should move freely from side to side no mater what position, it also has to be flat so it isn't fouling the balance wheel or the balance cock. 

Try that first and let me know.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The clock was removed and inspected.  None of the apertures in the back brass plate shows any dirt like I have seen in online videos.  I lightly oiled each from the back and did not remove the faceplate fearing I could not get it back together and working.  After a few days of constant running, I moved the timing adjuster (regulator?) to the right or toward the minus sign to make it run slower.  

Bad idea.  It stopped running immediately although I had only moved the adjuster about three-eights inch to the right or toward the minus sign.  Over two days I moved it slowly back to the left in very small increments until it started to run again.  It is running again with the adjuster approximately one-eight inch past (to the right of)  the high noon mark and it gains about ten minutes per day.  Video attached shows it running and the adjuster should be clearly seen (it pivots from the center of the spring fed wheel.

Why will it not run adjusted toward slowing the mechanism?  Any idea would be appreciated.  

And I appreciate your comments.  

Oh no, looks like this forum may not accept a video.  Still trying.  Not possible, regrets.

Thank you.  Those are new terms and I need to look up the meaning.  Will report back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Update.  It is running well but gains five minutes per day.  Still slowly trying to adjust it slower; each time it stops running and I have to go back.  Still trying  but happy to see it run again.  I feel like I brought it back to life after who knows how much long it has been inactive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

The hairspring is perfectly flat and seems to be free from any impediment.  The clock is still gaining some 10-15 minutes per day.  I am adjusting it toward the minus sign to make it run slower and am just beginning to make a record each day.  Is it OK to move the regulator say 45 degrees or even 90 degrees to the right (toward the minus sign)? Or should I stop at say 45 degrees from top dead center?  Thx.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't you let the hairspring out? Clocks with this type of regulator including all carriage type  it is common practice that the regulator is set near or on the middle. There is a reason why it is gaining so much but if you find it, what you are saying is your only way then go ahead but it will look odd to the eye. Has it a good action, as this can cause problems, check the balance pivots, they should be as sharp as a new pencil, how about the two jewels they must be clean are they cracked or chipped.    

Edited by oldhippy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the balance stationary, when you move the regulator left or right, it should be able to travel the whole length without touching the hairspring. If you observe the hairspring moving when you move the regulator, the hairspring is distorted. 

Check that first before we move on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Attaching pic w arrows to make sure I am using the proper naming conventions.  Hairspring top arrow and regulator bottom arrow.  Will check later to make sure the hairspring is not moving at all when I adjust the regulator; ie not touching the regulator.

Carriage clock w arrows.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great; will take a look.  Thx.

 

 

 

Tested it this AM.  When I move the regulator toward the minus sign, I can see the hairspring coil and become tighter.  When moved toward the plus sign, the hairspring gets noticeably bigger and more spread out.  Obviously the regulator is tied to the end of the hairspring and pulls it tighter or releases; therefore I am not sure how to move the regulator without moving the hairspring.

With the regulator about 30 degrees toward the minus, it gained eight minutes time in twenty four hours.

Did I misread an earlier post asking if I let the hairspring out?  I think letting it out; ie spread out and less coiled would make the clock run faster.

Is this not correct?  If not, I have been making the adjustment in the wrong direction.

Apparently there is a reply by Willow which I cannot find; received an email notice.  Having a hard time navigating this website.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your regulator sounds like it might be damaged. There should be a small gap between the regulator for the hairspring to lie in. It should not be touching or pinching the hair spring at rest. When the regulator is moved left or right, the regulator should be able slide freely along the hairspring, thus the hairspring should not move at all.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...