Making A Watchband

[Hamish]

Hi,

A couple of members seemed interested in how i make a watch band. They are by no means perfect, but are functional and seem to last the test of time. This one is made from farmed crocodile. The skin is cheaper to buy in a non-dyed state. This skin was bought locally in Melbourne, it was around a meter long and cost $95. The tools required are a new scalpel, awl, glue, hole punches, a gas torch and mid size screwdriver, needle and good quality waxed thread, sealer and dye for the sides and coffee leather dye. The other materials are kid leather strips (suede side out, very comfortable, but up to you) and some scrap leather for filler.

 

 

(Above) I have made up some templates. These are paper, but clear hard plastic seems best as you can see the grain underneath. I look for matching patterns. From this hide I rough cut the band and the keepers.

 

 

(Above) The slide shows the croc and the kid liner. The keepers will be lined also. The croc has been dyed. The two strips to the left are the band pad scraps. On some bands I like a lot of padding, sometimes three layers so it appears curved, but on these watches just one layer is best and only part of the way down the band. This stiffens up the band well. It is important to have the band not too stiff or too supple and also tapering in thickness towards the buckle ends.

 

 

(Above) This pic shows the reverse sides of the croc with the padding in place. I use water based glue. I find drying time varies with the amount applied which gives you good control and it is super-flexible. The spring bar ends have been folded over. They will be double stitched later.

 

 

(Above) Liner glued to croc. Keepers/liners glued.

 

 

(Above) Shaping complete. One fixed keeper attached under liner. Buckle end is folded over under liner. Wait for glue to dry.

 

 

(Above) Reverse side. You might be able to pick up how I have done the spring bar end. Should be strong with double stitching later.

 

 

(Above) I use a heated screw driver flat to smarten up the leather edges. Not for too long though. Really helps to get a nice curve on the end of the band.

 

 

(Above) I use inks to dye the side sealer. This one is black and after mixing I apply it with a cotton bud - seems to work for me ok. The fiddly parts can be applied with a small flat brush. Take care not to get the sealer on either the leather or the liner as it is impossible to get off, once dry. I have never seen this stuff peel or flake. 

 

 

(Above) I use a sharp awl and just eyeball the holes. Make sure you hold the awl vertically and not at an angle. The band is ready for stitching. I use good quality waxed thread. Better to have the thread a bit too long that short. I sometimes dye the thread, but these days tend to use white a bit...all depends on personal preference I guess. Anyway now you can sit back for around two hours and stitch away.

 

 

(Above) The finished product. I have tried many products to finish the croc, but have found simple neutral shoe polish great. Put some on with a cloth and just brush off when dry. (Watch is a 'Cymaflex' watersport with dial patina...fairly common watch I think).

 

Happy to provide further detail if you would like also more than happy if you see ways I can improve. 

 

Hamish.

[Geo]

What a lot of work goes into it Hamish, excellent result and a great write up. A man's got to know his limitations, I'll stick to the mechanical side of horology! :)

[Vich]

Thanks for that Hamish,

 

It seems so straight forward the way you have demonstrated it but I know from experience that skilled people have a knack of making some things look easy when that is not in fact the case.

 

Outstanding demo.

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

[cdjswiss]

Congratulations - I am impressed by your method.

 

I have been using some skins bought at a flea market: lizard and another scaly unidentified animal. I have been able to sew the edges with a domestic sewing machine by turning the handle slowly and applying a little power from its electric motor. The needle is one for sewing leather. The thread is unwaxed - I wax in afterwards.

 

Here is an example of a band made for a trench watch. The backing is glove leather.

 

[Geo]

Colin, that is an excellent piece of work. The skin looks like lizard, which is one of my favourites. :)

[Hamish]

Nice band and good way to recycle. Agreed it looks like lizard.

[Lawson]

... and another scaly unidentified animal.

 

This made me LOL spit :P

[cdjswiss]

Here is a pic of the scaly animal skin. What is it?  It certainly makes fine watch bands.

 

 

 

I should add that it is 70 cm long.

Edited July 19, 2015 by cdjswiss

[Geo]

Looks like teju lizard.

[cdjswiss]

Geo, it's too large to be a Teju lizard. Here is a Teju watch strap agains my scaly skin.

 

[Geo]

They do get quite large.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-XZMvyt1iYk

[cdjswiss]

Thanks, Geo, it appears that I have skins from the Argentinian red Teju! But there are no wavy parts as seen on the watch straps. Perhaps these are from youngsters or from another continent?

[Vich]

Fine strapping lizard that ! :sword:

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

[Michael]

Hamish and CDJSwiss, thanks for sharing your work. Amazing stuff

[Gary]

That is fantastic Hamish. What do you use to seal the edges?

[frenchie]

Nice work Hamish, thanks for sharing ! (you make it look so simple...)

[Hamish]

Thanks Gary and Frenchie. You can buy some specific leather sealer, but I have found that artists canvas sealer which is available here in gloss or matt is really good. As I said earlier I have never known it to come off or peel. The quality of the finish depends on a bit of skill and trial and error and I also find you can gently sand it down to a really smooth surface. Have a look at making a watchband videos on youtube...the experts seem to use the same techniques.

[cdjswiss]

Sealing the edges: I use cobbler's wax - still in the cupboard from long ago just after WW2 when we had to repair our own shoes. The wax can be rubbed on and then polished. Probably no longer available, but the perfect alternative is the wax bars used by furniture restorers to fill in cracks. These are availabe in many colours and are a little softer than cobbler's wax.

Edited July 21, 2015 by cdjswiss

[Geo]

This will https://www.charlesbirch.com/p-6841-wax-polish-blocks-black-12-kilo-size.aspxbe what you are referring to Colin.

When I worked in the "Limb Fitting Centre" our leather workers used this for doing just what you described. This company is the one we used but only supplies to the trade. Considering a small piece would last a long time, it might be worth asking the local shoe repairer if they could give or sell a small chunk.

[cdjswiss]

Yes, George, that's it. Probably a back-street shoe repairer would still have some.

Here is a sample of my treasures. The old cobblers to the left and the furniture wax to the right.

 

[clockwatcher]

Hamish that's great work! I've made a few belts in my time but your work goes way beyond that. How do you get your stitching so straight? I started to make a leather bottle (like the one in the following link - www.oocities.org/thorvin.geo/trad_bottle.htm ) using stitches three times the size and they were all over the place. =)