My first true project watch. Really nice condition vintage Seiko 7006a. Non running.
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The tube external thread is about 3.8mm, not easy to measure as the thread is nearly gone. The inner thread is about 2.25mm - I'll measure it properly when I get it out. The crown is 5.2mm. It's original Rolex with crown, so would be a shame to have to use a generic -
someday in the future some unsuspecting watchmaker attempts to adjust the pallet stones, does the UV glue soften in or with heat? the unfortunate problem of timekeeping is you do have to have a functional escapement. the amusements I have with this and other groups is the obsession with some sort of magical target amplitude or you're a failure in watch repair. On a different group somebody with a pocket watch had way too much amplitude and tried everything except the logical solution. The groups decision was put the proper mainspring as typically American pocket watches even Rolex has differing strength mainsprings for the same watch. But this person was so scared the new mainspring it might take the amplitude too low and he would be I guess a failure. I am wondering if maybe YouTube personalities are spreading this bizarre obsession? then using the term timekeeping is too simplistic we need numbers. So I snipped out something with numbers something may be easy to recognize that Omega numbers ETA numbers of various watches. then I did not snip out the fine print which I assume everyone knows for proper timing procedures. In other words fully wound up at zero is fully wound up but a settling time. typically at least 15 minutes to about an hour it varies. This way with a any watch or not wound up at the absolute peak of too much power. then notice test positions it depends upon the grade of the watch but this is only for ETA specifications ideally for troubleshooting you should really look at six positions. Then you get the average rate once again it depends upon the quality grade of the watch. The Delta of the various tests positions. Then? isochronism? True they abbreviated it but that's the word. Just think if you had a properly adjusted escapement a properly shaped mainspring with the nice back curve producing linear power may be little watch fully wound up doing 245°? On this group you would be a failure and you should leave. But if it met all the timing specifications and at the end of 24 hours it was within the timekeeping specifications especially the isochronism and still had the minimum amplitude on the spec sheets you would be fine except on this group where you would be a failure because you were supposed to get that magical amplitude whatever the heck it is yes I really do get annoyed with the target amplitude or death attitude on these graphs so isochronism the effect of amplitude. This is where if you hit some magical 300° and your mainspring sock and other factors in your crashed 200° you would be extremely unlikely to ever get this isochronism number you do much better with a consistent amplitude over the running span. This is also why the power reserves become important as you tend to get more linear timekeeping with longer power reserves as it gives more even mainspring power oh and then for those of you recovering from your heart attack over minimum amplitude of the 190°. But notice at that lower amplitude the isochronism number is much bigger there only timing and three positions Delta's bigger. Plus a slightly shorter power reserve. So customers only care if their watch keeps time they don't typically care about amplitude. Although I see on the Rolex discussion group for some of them of timing machines and they are concerned about their amplitude. But typical people don't have timing machines they just care of the watch keeps time. Watch companies as we'd see below have timing specifications and timekeeping is the most important. With unfortunately you still have to have a functional escapement and enough amplitude consistent amplitude to keep the timekeeping. -
Sorry, I meant a side profile showing how high the seconds hand sits above the minute hand. -
I'm not sure if the hand is original or a replacement, but it has been in use for a while as it has worn a divot in the center of the crystal. This is the side profile (bezel not 100% seated): -
for this particular Seiko movements there is a special movement holder specifically for the sweep chronograph hand. It allows you to push the button in for returning to zero and hold it in place. While pushing the second hand on it the proper location. It also provides support underneath C don't knock the jewel allowed because it requires a lot of force to put the chronograph hand on. For instance this is why a lot of Swiss chronograph watches when you go to remove the hands they will disintegrate because they been put on with so much force that they basically are considered non-removable and in the service centers they would get an entire replacement hand kit which we do not get so chronograph hands need to go on typically very very tight as others have mentioned there's a lot of force on them when the returning to zero.
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