Jump to content

c1970 Smiths (EB8800)


GDub

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

               Just a quick shout out for advice/suggestions, I am very much a newby to watch making and currently completing Marks Level 3 training course, this said, I confidently acquired a vintage Smiths mechanical wind watch, I performed a full strip down, clean and lubrication re-build, new crystal mainspring case polish etc. all sounds good up to now, however, I now find that the watch is erratic on the timegrapher, one minute 20-30 s/d and 1.5 beat error, as soon as you change the crown orientation if goes crazy 100-300 s/d, 9ms beat error, this said, I checked all installed components as free and located correctly and not over lubricated, all seemed OK, but decided to strip it down again to double check (all was good), without the pallet and balance in the watch felt very smooth on turning the crown so the only question is the balance and hairspring at fault? Is it possible for the balance/hairspring to cause these issues? One thing I did notice is that the hair spring seemed a little slower that all my other I initially put this down to it coming up on the timegrapher as a 1800 bph (all my other watches are 21000 or above), also the watch has a tendency to stop but starts again with a little tilt side to side.

Any thoughts guys? Thanks GDub.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

    18000 bph is correct.

 

20 hours ago, GDub said:

Is it possible for the balance/hairspring to cause these issues? 

 Sticky  hairspring due to contamination or magnetisation, sometimes intermittently which is hard to spot with naked eye, making  a vid of oscilator running helps to spot hairspring issues.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
On 1/17/2023 at 10:47 PM, GDub said:

 as soon as you change the crown orientation if goes crazy 100-300 s/d, 9ms beat error, 

Do you mean ,  when you turn the crown to advance the hands  ? 

Is it pin pallet ? did you oil the escape teeth.

 

Edited by Nucejoe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If possible, could you tell me the spring size of this? I have a clock of this type.
    • It all depends how much you're willing to spend and if you're happy to try the old mainspring and see what results you get with the possibility of having to swap it at a later stage. The key sizes are the height and thickness with some flexibility on the length depending on the barrel size. If you look at the likes of Cousins for springs around the GR4486 Edit There are still some GR4486 out their. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126715574424?ff3=2&toolid=10044&customid=&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508&item=126715574424&ufes_redirect=true
    • Older mainsprings look like that. The S shaped mainspring is a modern invention that is, as far as I know, better at providing the same torque across all states of wind. By modern I mean 1950-ish (someone will correct me on that I'm sure). Your old spring looks ok to my eyes: no kinks, healthy space between the coils. I'd just put it back, though others might replace it.
    • Hi All! I have an ST1686 that I am tearing down and rebuilding for my first service.  I got down to the mainspring barrel and opened it.  It was pretty dirty, so I unwound it to clean.  But it didn't look like a mainspring typically would like this stock mainspring photo from Wikipedia.  It was only spiral coiled and didn't flatten out.  I've attached a photo to accompany my poor rookie explanation. If this is abnormal, I'll need to source a replacement.  I see that the ST1686 takes a GR4486, but the GR4486 is discontinued.  I'm able to source a new old stock (NOS) spring on eBay, but what would be a good modern alternative to the GR4486 1.60mm high x .10mm thick x 300mm long x 9mm barrel diameter?  Do I look for slightly longer spring? Thinner spring?  Thicker spring?  I know the height and barrel diameter should probably need to stay the same, right? As far as the barrel goes, how do you tell the difference between the machined ridge to hold the end of the mainspring and a broken piece of mainspring that's stuck inside of the barrel?  I've attached photos of the end of the mainspring and the inside of the barrel.  I appreciate the help since I have no bearing for what "normal" looks like. Thanks for the help in advance! Dave
    • This is a very old thread and as stated by @tomh207 above it's unlikely you'll get a response.
×
×
  • Create New...