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1956 Bulova 10BPAC 23 jewels service


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While I'm waiting for cleaning chemicals to arrive, took apart this nice Bulova 10BPAC. I love the fluted bezel, and I really enjoy these Bulova movements.

This is a watch I picked up from Facebook Marketplace when I first started, and was too intimidated by the automatic works to take it apart.

It's time is now! I also pre-emptively bought a parts watch from eBay (on the right in the photo). It's got a yellowed dial, but otherwise looks nice as well. I'll open that one up next, but I've run out of parts trays 🤪

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I even bought the Bergeon #3 Presto tool to pull that sweep seconds wheel.

It's a non-runner. The balance looks good, no cracked jewels, but there's a lot of resistance in the train. The stem had some serious corrosion, and it got all around the watch, so I'm hoping a good cleaning and oiling is all it needs.

Now the only question is: do I follow directions, or do I take this spring out and clean & lubricate it? I've never been good at taking orders...

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

I don't suppose you looked at variations in 4 positions before disassembly

I tried testing it for a baseline first, but it wouldn't run. The balance appears to spin freely, but there's not much power coming through the train.

Edited by ManSkirtBrew
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13 hours ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

While I'm waiting for cleaning chemicals to arrive, took apart this nice Bulova 10BPAC. I love the fluted bezel, and I really enjoy these Bulova movements.

This is a watch I picked up from Facebook Marketplace when I first started, and was too intimidated by the automatic works to take it apart.

It's time is now! I also pre-emptively bought a parts watch from eBay (on the right in the photo). It's got a yellowed dial, but otherwise looks nice as well. I'll open that one up next, but I've run out of parts trays 🤪

20230104_224702.thumb.png.4589c88c6ae5ff5655f85d3205c91cde.png

20230104_223500.thumb.png.0fca9336ad25182a0567901f66d2a0b7.png

20230104_223620.thumb.png.93cc65b8d2a7d6e33203f1500407c064.png

20230104_224301.thumb.png.03c228b6b90ee254b8e592c1eb45f036.png

I even bought the Bergeon #3 Presto tool to pull that sweep seconds wheel.

It's a non-runner. The balance looks good, no cracked jewels, but there's a lot of resistance in the train. The stem had some serious corrosion, and it got all around the watch, so I'm hoping a good cleaning and oiling is all it needs.

Now the only question is: do I follow directions, or do I take this spring out and clean & lubricate it? I've never been good at taking orders...

20230104_232145.thumb.png.9ef77a0868694795a7fc989483fcf381.png

20230104_231939.thumb.png.e1001d8044be6d8bc1307cf68cb0f9b2.png

Yes, take the mainspring out, clean and lube. I've worked on about a dozen of these in the last 4 months--let me know if you need qny help. One thing to definitely look out for is play between the barrel arbor and the bridge--not correcting that will casue a significant loss of amplitude. Also, do you have any plans for the donor case? I'm in need of one for a movement I have. If so, PM me. Thanks

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14 hours ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

While I'm waiting for cleaning chemicals to arrive, took apart this nice Bulova 10BPAC. I love the fluted bezel, and I really enjoy these Bulova movements.

This is a watch I picked up from Facebook Marketplace when I first started, and was too intimidated by the automatic works to take it apart.

It's time is now! I also pre-emptively bought a parts watch from eBay (on the right in the photo). It's got a yellowed dial, but otherwise looks nice as well. I'll open that .

Now the only question is: do I follow directions, or do I take this spring out and clean & lubricate it? I've never been good at taking orders...

 

Even if you are not impressed with its positional variations.  this quality movement deserves new mainsprings. 

 

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2 hours ago, Levine98 said:

One thing to definitely look out for is play between the barrel arbor and the bridge

I did notice a bit more than I'd like. It looks like there's already a brass insert there, but I couldn't tell if it was factory or not. I'll get some photos later.

 

2 hours ago, Levine98 said:

Also, do you have any plans for the donor case? I'm in need of one for a movement I have.

I was going to see what the donor movement looked like and possibly put it back on eBay, but I'd much rather see it go to a fellow WRTer. Once I get a little further into the project I'll let you know.

1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

this quality movement deserves new mainsprings. 

I tend to agree, although I don't see a listing in the GR mainspring catalog for this one. I'll take it out and get some measurements.

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51 minutes ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

I did notice a bit more than I'd like. It looks like there's already a brass insert there, but I couldn't tell if it was factory or not. I'll get some photos later.

 

I was going to see what the donor movement looked like and possibly put it back on eBay, but I'd much rather see it go to a fellow WRTer. Once I get a little further into the project I'll let you know.

I tend to agree, although I don't see a listing in the GR mainspring catalog for this one. I'll take it out and get some measurements.

You can get  a replacement from Cousins UK using the measurements (120/10/300 I think—I just ordered 2). One thing I’ve found is Cousins has faster shipping and cheaper prices on most everything compared to Otto Frei or Cas-Ker (or any US material house). 

BTW I found a great article on the history of Bulova 23s if you’re interested (got it off the NAWCC forum). Let me know and I’ll pass it alone). Jay (Richmond VA (804) 998-3519)

58 minutes ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

tend to agree, although I don't see a listing in the GR mainspring catalog for this one. I'll take it out and get some measurements.

Just my .02 but you don’t have to replace the mainspring by default—if it looks good (good shape, no grinks), just clean it and relube and reinstall—I’ve done the majority that way and have been getting 280–300 amplitude dial U/D if all else is in order. I’ve only replaced the ones that are broken or deformed.

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The mainspring looks good to me. It does have a detached bridle. I've had trouble getting detached bridles back into the barrel in the past so I'm a little hesitant to pull it out, but I suppose it does need to be taken out to be cleaned properly.

20230105_224135.thumb.png.075022b903c210addece3def3510b867.png20230105_224148.thumb.png.39745f7f01d0180616662b0576c60036.png

 

Here's the hole in the barrel bridge. It does seem to have been sleeved, whether from the factory or not--I'll have to open the other one and see. Do you think closing it up with a rounded stake will still work here? Top:

 

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Bottom:

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Well, to my surprise, the watch on the right with the yellow dial started right up and runs strongly. Dial up and dial down:

dial_up.png.95db64f63f33afc55a4744de30b7e6d4.png

dial_down.png.278c18b308047aa9aeb7d97b289c9132.png

 

There's almost no play in the barrel bridge. It does look like that bearing sleeve is from the factory:

image.png.2c3642f677465d5fb8de426951c1b227.png

 

Looks like instead of a parts movement, I've got a fine working one! Maybe I'll swap the nicer dial onto this movement. We'll see how the other one comes out.

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9 hours ago, Levine98 said:

. I’ve only replaced the ones that are broken or deformed.

Notice on the rotor it says "adjusted in six positions " this is a good grade oscilator/ watch. 

Needs a new barrel complete.

Rgds

Notice how nice dots form the line and only few dots are scattered,  thats the machine distingueshes every single tic in good order, indicating good grade hairspring/ oscilator/ escapement. 

Shame to put damaged barrel and spindle broken spring back in. 

Slight problem with one pallet though.

I plan to learn as much as I can with TG print outs, when I get a tg machine. 

Rgds

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Here's the bulova 23 model history I referenced above (source: NAWCC 2010 Bulletin Authored by Bruce Shawkey).

Bulova 23 History.pdf

9 hours ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

The mainspring looks good to me. It does have a detached bridle. I've had trouble getting detached bridles back into the barrel in the past so I'm a little hesitant to pull it out, but I suppose it does need to be taken out to be cleaned properly.

20230105_224135.thumb.png.075022b903c210addece3def3510b867.png20230105_224148.thumb.png.39745f7f01d0180616662b0576c60036.png

 

Here's the hole in the barrel bridge. It does seem to have been sleeved, whether from the factory or not--I'll have to open the other one and see. Do you think closing it up with a rounded stake will still work here? Top:

 

20230105_224258.png.b9305986ac7279660618a594a2fd504d.png

 

Bottom:

20230105_224309.thumb.png.20def94c1f27cd47303b4329461dc198.png

Well, to my surprise, the watch on the right with the yellow dial started right up and runs strongly. Dial up and dial down:

dial_up.png.95db64f63f33afc55a4744de30b7e6d4.png

dial_down.png.278c18b308047aa9aeb7d97b289c9132.png

 

There's almost no play in the barrel bridge. It does look like that bearing sleeve is from the factory:

image.png.2c3642f677465d5fb8de426951c1b227.png

 

Looks like instead of a parts movement, I've got a fine working one! Maybe I'll swap the nicer dial onto this movement. We'll see how the other one comes out.

I normally don't take out the bridle--I just soak the barrel in napha and clean with a soft paint brush before putting into ultrasonic. Like I said, whichever one of the cases/movements you decide to not to use as a whole I'll take dibs. Jay

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That article by Bruce Shawkey is what got me interested in the Bulova 23's. He's a good guy, I met him when I lived in Madison WI. Unfortunately, he had a stroke a couple of years ago, and is not as active as he used to be. But, he still has a blog and writes regularly about various watch brands.

http://brucesworldofwatches.blogspot.com/

 

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59 minutes ago, dadistic said:

That article by Bruce Shawkey is what got me interested in the Bulova 23's. He's a good guy, I met him when I lived in Madison WI. Unfortunately, he had a stroke a couple of years ago, and is not as active as he used to be. But, he still has a blog and writes regularly about various watch brands.

http://brucesworldofwatches.blogspot.com/

 

Wow, thanks for the background. My membership in the NAWCC is about to expire and I doubt I'll renew re: I just haven't found the forums that helpful and in a couple of cases felt out of place since as a newbie I can't work a watchmakers lathe (and doubt I ever will).

I also attened the annual convention and also was not impressed enough to consider a repeat re: seemed like 80% of the attendees were clock collectors, 15% pocket watch and only a couple of wristwatch guys.

Not slamming them--just didn't work for me like this forum does.

BTW: lived 14 years in the Twin Cities before retiring to Richmond VA--best place we ever lived once we got past the weather 🙂

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On 1/6/2023 at 8:26 AM, Levine98 said:

I normally don't take out the bridle--I just soak the barrel in napha and clean with a soft paint brush before putting into ultrasonic.

My concern is being able to apply fresh braking grease. There has to be a good way to get that bridle back in place.

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