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I work almost entirely along and have been concerned about my technique.  I've gleaned some things from books but still wonder if I'm not forcing myself into awkward positions--positions that an experienced watchmaker would avoid--in order to remove this or install that.  You should see me!  Tongue pressed to cheek falls far short of capturing the situation.  I have the most difficulties with oiling the pallet jewels and other jewels that, on some movements, are inaccessible.  Those who play the piano know that hand technique is critical to playing well.  I suppose something similar is true of watchmaking.

 

Another exasperating problem is that when working with my tweezers I can, say, trying to set a particularly small screw, work with a steady hand until the last millimeter or so.  Then a slight tremor seems to develop.  I have been concerned that this may be due to age (64+) but it may be that I'm trying to hard; that it will go away with practice and patience? (It's better some days and worse others.)

 

Anyway, I'd like to know if you readers have encountered this problem and how you go about or went about solving it--at least making it manageable.  Some, like Mark, have amazingly steady hands but I'm sure there are some "jitterbugs" like me who like some advice on this.

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Yes, Douglas, I have the same problem and a some more years. My solution, when needed, is to use both hands. Partially cover the movement that you are working on with a sheet of tissue or thin white foam sheet. Place a finger of the left hand (assuming that you are right-handed) onto the movement and use this to steady the screwdriver that you are endeavouring to move into the screw slot, or the tweezers that are holding that little screw that has to fit into that tiny hole. Another tip is to plant the screw head into a finger of Rodico and use this instead of tweezers to place the screw. You will lose fewer screws this way.

I also have a little inexpensive mechanical micro-manipulator for some delicate work such as tweaking a hairspring - I found it on eBay, but they are rare items.

 

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The shaking is nerves I get it now & again when working on someones watch (especially a pricey one). I just walk away have a cup of tea and calm down.

The area I struggle with is hairsprings but practice really does help. The other area I struggled with is fitting small pins such as hairspring pins I just could not hold them with tweezers but now I use a small pin vice that clamps via a sliding collet.

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Being another 64+ here's how I position screws easily before tightening.

I have a set of tweezers with a bend at the tip that allows me to hold screws vertically for positioning before tightening. My left arm/hand rests on the bench and this allows absolute stability when positioning the screws. If it is a deep hole, I just drop the screw in, and if it is shallow, I continue to hold it with the tweezers while screwing it in a couple of threads.

post-124-0-94442000-1436773737_thumb.jpg

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I think we all have times like that. Many days I'd have problems repairing watches after I'd been working on clocks, can you imagine one minute working on a fusee bracket clock and then repairing a small ladies wrist watch. As clockboy has said sometimes you just have to leave it for another time.

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I'm only a bit more than half your age :p but the last millimeter is the hardest one for me too !

Although I do notice that I am better at it now than when I first started. When it's really tricky, I use a variant of cdjswisstechnique (2 hands : the non-dominant hand being the support for the dominant hand). I feel that having something to rest my working hand on, as close to the work as possible, gives me the best precision.

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When I am working real close to a movement with my loupe, I rest my front teeth on a special pad I made up, thus keeping my head dead still, and I ensure my forearms are clear to be rested on the work top, and then use my bridge on my hand, and a combination of my fingers to act as a tripod so to speak.  Sounds complicated but its not.

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Douglas, I'm glad you posted this thread. I've never had the steadiest of hands and this has been a problem with learning watchmaking. My dominant right hand in particular has a bit of a tremor. As with others, I use my non-dominant hand to steady my dominant hand. I enjoy coffee, but that's obviously not helpful in this situation. I've also noticed that my hands are steadier after I've had a drink or two, but I wouldn't drink just for that. I try to be creative when dealing with really small parts. Rodico on the end of a piece of pegwood is one of the best tools you'll ever make.

 

When I was having trouble oiling and inserting a parashock cap jewel into a movement I came up with this Rodico Hershey's Kiss

 

c2assem15b.jpg

 

Not only did it create a stable platform and free up my left hand when placing the oil, it also made installing it into the movement much easier. I just turned it over, placed it above the jewel hole and gently knocked it off with my tweezers.

 

To me, Rodico is a miracle product. So many uses. Most people say such and such is "the best thing since sliced bread." I say it's the best thing since Rodico. Of course almost no one knows what I'm talking about when I say that. :D

 

Another thing that helps me is to take a couple of deep breaths and let my body completely relax before starting. It can be very stressful to try to manipulate tiny, tiny parts that are easily lost or damaged. I've seen more than one comparison of watchmaking to bomb disposal work. Though admittedly the consequences of a mistake are far more serious for an EOD specialist than for a hobby watch repairer.

 

Don

Edited by Don
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Some good tips there.

 

I use Rodico tipped pegwood to insert screws and jewels and brass tweezers to set them.

 

For fine work and to prevent  shaking, I use my left hand as a steady so that my right hand rests on a bridge or tripod.

 

I'd also be very interested to see the mechanical micro-manipulator mentioned by 'cdjswiss'

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Let's not forget Marc's picker upper for handling jewels and hands, particularly small chronograph hands.

"Just for you Geo...

post-124-0-66716100-1436860813_thumb.jpg

post-124-0-40513000-1436860952_thumb.jpg

This is the smallest one in the range, I don't think that I would have a use for the bigger ones.

And no, that jewel isn't balanced, it's hanging.

I don't know how long the sticky lasts. I've had mine just over a year now and have used it a lot with no loss of tackiness.

When it does eventually lose its stick I suspect that it will only require a rinse in cold water and then air dry to rejuvenate it, although at the price I will probably just replace it."

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Can I ask if that tool has a name and where to buy as it looks like it can help me out quite a bit

Here you go.

https://www.cousinsu...h-silicone-tips Have a nice day. Tell me the name of the tool, I do not find on the site. Sincerely.

Отправлено с моего Lenovo P780 через Tapatalk

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Have a nice day. Tell me the name of the tool, I do not find on the site. Sincerely.

Отправлено с моего Lenovo P780 через Tapatalk

"Jewel Picker Upper with Silicone Tips"

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Thanks everybody!  I too am getting more creative with Rodico.  I also got a jewel picker-upper (from Amazon).  It has been a godsend.  I recently used it to replace a cap jewel in a very difficult Russian shock absorber.  I picked up the jewel on the curved side and while still in the picker-upper oiled it and placed it in the setting.

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I find magnifying the problem my solution. Since working with my zoom microscope everything looks bigger so less nerves/shakes. Also if it's not happening for me I tend to lay the screw & then push into place with end of the tweesers.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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Douglas, I'm glad you posted this thread. I've never had the steadiest of hands and this has been a problem with learning watchmaking. My dominant right hand in particular has a bit of a tremor. As with others, I use my non-dominant hand to steady my dominant hand. I enjoy coffee, but that's obviously not helpful in this situation. I've also noticed that my hands are steadier after I've had a drink or two, but I wouldn't drink just for that. I try to be creative when dealing with really small parts. Rodico on the end of a piece of pegwood is one of the best tools you'll ever make.

 

When I was having trouble oiling and inserting a parashock cap jewel into a movement I came up with this Rodico Hershey's Kiss

 

c2assem15b.jpg

 

Not only did it create a stable platform and free up my left hand when placing the oil, it also made installing it into the movement much easier. I just turned it over, placed it above the jewel hole and gently knocked it off with my tweezers.

 

To me, Rodico is a miracle product. So many uses. Most people say such and such is "the best thing since sliced bread." I say it's the best thing since Rodico. Of course almost no one knows what I'm talking about when I say that. :D

 

Another thing that helps me is to take a couple of deep breaths and let my body completely relax before starting. It can be very stressful to try to manipulate tiny, tiny parts that are easily lost or damaged. I've seen more than one comparison of watchmaking to bomb disposal work. Though admittedly the consequences of a mistake are far more serious for an EOD specialist than for a hobby watch repairer.

 

Don

I've also found breathing helpful. I start to exhale while placing the part.

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I find magnifying the problem my solution. Since working with my zoom microscope everything looks bigger so less nerves/shakes. Also if it's not happening for me I tend to lay the screw & then push into place with end of the tweesers.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Good point- bigger is better. Also, the more light, the better.

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Just like target shooting! :)

You beat me too it Geo, except I learnt to pause between exhaling and inhaling and that was the moment to release the trigger. It can still be relevant in watchmaking as it provides a very predictable, and very still moment of equilibrium in the body's poise; ideal for a very light and controlled touch on a hair spring for instance.

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