Jump to content

ETA 2472 low amplitude - impulse jewel fouling pallet horn?


Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, fellerts said:

experiments

I like experiments for instance I currently have a 6497 that a lubricated the entire geartrain with HP 1300 and it actually runs quite decently. Then I use my usual 9020 on the balance pivots and if memory serves me the watch actually runs very nice.

I have seen were Omega recommends the HP oil on the balance pivots if you have too much amplitude. Then of course there is the other thing try the D5 on the pallet fork pivots you should get a decrease their.

Although you will find probably since the beginning of time and watch repair going to a weaker mainspring is preferred. I know the Elgin watch company had weaker mainsprings at one time. Rolex has weaker mainsprings so apparently it's somewhat common you can have your problem and a weaker mainspring would solve the problem.

Oh and if you really want to have fun go for a grease in the pivots if you somehow get it in their. In a classroom situation once I was trying to figure out why one of the watches was acting very bizarre and finally concluded that in the documentation there were places where it said use a grease or D5 and I think the student decided that every place it D5 appeared they could use a grease and they may have conceivably grease the entire watch. So you start using something super heavy in the pivots they will basically simulate what happens if the lubrication all those bad with time of the watch will barely run at all.

But experiments are good just to see what happens like D5 on the pallet fork pivots try that.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/14/2023 at 9:53 PM, JohnR725 said:

Oh and if you really want to have fun go for a grease in the pivots if you somehow get it in their. In a classroom situation once I was trying to figure out why one of the watches was acting very bizarre and finally concluded that in the documentation there were places where it said use a grease or D5 and I think the student decided that every place it D5 appeared they could use a grease and they may have conceivably grease the entire watch. So you start using something super heavy in the pivots they will basically simulate what happens if the lubrication all those bad with time of the watch will barely run at all.

But experiments are good just to see what happens like D5 on the pallet fork pivots try that.

Indeed John, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I did try D5 on the pallet fork pivots, and my quick test suggests that you'll lose around 30 degrees of amplitude compared to using no oil. That's even more significant than using D5 instead of 9010 on the balance endstones in my particular case. I let the movement run for a couple days in my drawer and found that yet another 10 degrees had gone astray at the end of it.

On 1/14/2023 at 5:14 PM, Klassiker said:

That is in the horizontal positions, isn't it? As I recall, you were getting around 90 degrees less in the verticals, which is a big difference. How is that affecting your positional rate variation at full wind and after a night "at rest"? Are you happy with the timing performance on your wrist?

I think the sweet spot for the movement in its current condition is D5 on the whole train + balance, pallet fork pivots dry. I've re-cleaned and done so, and I'll check back in a couple days. Luckily I'm doing this for fun so I've got all the time in the world to get this right, or if I can't, I'll learn a bunch! I'll re-test all positions when the movement has calmed down after today's adventure.

Come to think of it, at some point I should disassemble, clean, assemble and oil a movement several times to ensure that I get the same results every time. If not, my methods need revising.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, fellerts said:

I should disassemble, clean, assemble and oil a movement several times to ensure that I get the same results every time.

That would be a very good test, and I fear my own technique would not stand up to it. I will have to do the same!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/6/2023 at 2:04 PM, VWatchie said:

 

So, joe, do you usually oil the impulse jewel or is it just an idea that you have? What kind of experience do you have?

Apology for my late response. 

As the fault was nearly located to be in the fork horn area ( rough surface where impulse jewel engages with ) .

Oiling the horn would expectedly reduce friction on the rough surface. 

As for my experience, my late friend( watch repairman) gave me a bit of compound he had, to polish parts with, have polished fork horn with it and gained amplitude. 

Best wishes WW. 

Will you give me the link to your weblog or site, please.

Just now, Nucejoe said:

Apology for my late response. 

As the fault was nearly located to be in the fork horn area ( rough surface where impulse jewel engages with ) .

Oiling the horn would expectedly reduce friction on the rough surface. 

As for my experience, my late friend( watch repairman) gave me a bit of compound he had, to polish parts with, have polished fork horn with it and gained amplitude. 

Best wishes WW. 

Will you give me the link to your weblog or site, please.

Correcrion VW . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • just one little minor reminder here this isn't your normal balance wheel.  pages 17 and 18 are what you really want to be looking at. normally studs don't turn but this watch has the etachron system designed for lots of adjustment. Personally I would try to rotate the stud back to where it's supposed to be. If you're lucky you didn't actually bend it at the stud it just looks really bad as the stud has been rotated grossly out of position.. I think things will look a lot better if you put the hairspring back where it's supposed to be by rotating the stud. it's hard to tell if you actually did bend it at the stud or not we won't know until you rotate the stud back more or less where it's supposed to be. Then you want to pay attention to the manual of how to put the hairspring back in the regulator pins because yes they rotate also and they rotated specific directions otherwise bad things will happen to your hairspring. so initially you can open up the regulator as wide as it can go and don't worry about closing it until thing everything is right then you can close them a little bit
    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
×
×
  • Create New...