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Place A Value On This Watch Please!


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Pro or noob I want your opinion. What is it worth? What would you pay for it?

Here is an excellent prime example of a Hamilton Brandon model wristwatch. These watches were made from 1948-1951 and are 10KGF with 18K solid-gold numerals on a silver-color dial. This particular watch is a wonderful, very clean example with an original dial. Note from my pics how crisp and clear the dial is - especially the "cld" and the seconds sub-dial. Dial restorations do not replicate the "cld" as well as this original dial from 65 years ago. This Brandon has the original gold hands which are in perfect condition. There is no pitting anywhere on this watch.

Of particular note is that this watch was completely serviced (disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt and timed) by Rene Rondeau, the world's foremost expert on vintage Hamilton watches, who has recently retired. The last 2 pics were sent to me by Rene as he was working on this watch. He noted how nice the dial was (he also concluded it is original) and that the cal 980 17 jewel movement was also very clean. Indeed, this watch runs strong and accurate as a wind-up vintage wristwatch!

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I paid £140 sterling for my Hamilton 980 - around 3 years ago - they were quite a rare find at that time in the UK.

 

Hamilton watches are more common in the US, and generally go for fewer bucks.

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    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
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