Jump to content

Absolutely baffled by setting issue in 7s26...


Recommended Posts

58 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I couldn't see anything wrong in your videos - it all looks to be working OK

Were you just mis-understanding how the cannon pinion works ?
Without the pallet fork in, there is enough friction between the cannon pinion and hour wheel to turn the whole gear train. With the fork in, the gear train is effectively locked, and the cannon pinion should slip on the hour wheel to allow hand setting.

I was misunderstanding and yeah i did not know what you just said. once i put the pallet fork in it all worked. I actuallpy assumed the inside of the cannon pinion and center wheel barely touched, i never realized how much friction they have. It's a really clever bit of engineering!

My original center wheel as my instincts told me WAS bent, i can see it clearly now that i see that the seconds wheel is dead center in the middle of the new donor center wheel which is dead center in the middle of the cannon pinion. In the original one the second wheel was not centered and it was REAL hard to get that cannon pinion over the center wheel and they were bound so tight it would have broken the pallet fork before the cannon pinion could have rotated freely. 

That said i now got two working movements! I haven't done the 24 hour run on my second service but using the same balance from the previous one the amplitude is EVEN HIGHER at 288! Thrilled with that!

The problem is that i put my only other balance that looked...ok but not perfect in the first movement i serviced which was getting an amplitude of 272, with the new balance it's getting only about 200. I'm going to try re oiling the top jewel on the balance and see if htat helps but I got a feeling the hairspring needs a little reshaping.

Wtf is up with seiko hairsprings? I got 4 balances with hairsprings that aren't bent but need to be reshaped just a little to get them centered and working properly. I think ALL of them are from 7s26b movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Birbdad said:

Wtf is up with seiko hairsprings? I got 4 balances with hairsprings that aren't bent but need to be reshaped just a little to get them centered and working properly. I think ALL of them are from 7s26b movements.

I think Gert mentioned something about dodgy hairsprings on 7s26 b movements. They cheap, costs more to get a basic car valet these days, and thats by little freddy from the next street borrowing his mums Henri hoover and a pair of his big sisters knickers to polish your dashboard down with.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I think Gert mentioned something about dodgy hairsprings on 7s26 b movements. They cheap, costs more to get a basic car valet these days, and thats by little freddy from the next street borrowing his mums Henri hoover and a pair of his big sisters knickers to polish your dashboard down with.

Can you check freddy's availability for next week, my car is filthy

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, lexacat said:

Can you check freddy's availability for next week, my car is filthy

Will do. Hes out of little offenders for auto theft today , he likes some tunes on so if you can leave your keys in the ignition for him that would be great.

7 hours ago, thor447 said:

Next in line after @lexacat!!!  I wonder if there is a travel charge going between UK, Australia, and USA?

He said it depends on the market price of your car. 

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/29/2022 at 8:12 AM, mikepilk said:

Glad you got it sorted out in the end.

You have done very well - I have a Seiko 7S26 and can't get it above 240° ! Some Seiko's are like that.
(Next time I clean it I'll see if I can move the pallet jewels in a touch).

thanks. I"m pretty proud of myself. Both of my first services over 270...most of the time. getting 288 on one, and 271 on the other, though it's about 265 ish some of the time. i think it gets that 270 only at full wind. 

EIther way, This all turned out better than i thought it would.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

It’s a tall order for a first watch but it looks like you nailed it. Can I suggest you try a Sekonda for your next watch? A manual wind would be perfect.

The thing with Seiko is they are very good for learning Seiko but a Sekonda mimics Swiss movements so it will give you a better grounding. Also some of the Seiko jewel shock springs are a nightmare. Get some confidence with the Incabloc ones first

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...