Jump to content

Absolutely baffled by setting issue in 7s26...


Recommended Posts

58 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I couldn't see anything wrong in your videos - it all looks to be working OK

Were you just mis-understanding how the cannon pinion works ?
Without the pallet fork in, there is enough friction between the cannon pinion and hour wheel to turn the whole gear train. With the fork in, the gear train is effectively locked, and the cannon pinion should slip on the hour wheel to allow hand setting.

I was misunderstanding and yeah i did not know what you just said. once i put the pallet fork in it all worked. I actuallpy assumed the inside of the cannon pinion and center wheel barely touched, i never realized how much friction they have. It's a really clever bit of engineering!

My original center wheel as my instincts told me WAS bent, i can see it clearly now that i see that the seconds wheel is dead center in the middle of the new donor center wheel which is dead center in the middle of the cannon pinion. In the original one the second wheel was not centered and it was REAL hard to get that cannon pinion over the center wheel and they were bound so tight it would have broken the pallet fork before the cannon pinion could have rotated freely. 

That said i now got two working movements! I haven't done the 24 hour run on my second service but using the same balance from the previous one the amplitude is EVEN HIGHER at 288! Thrilled with that!

The problem is that i put my only other balance that looked...ok but not perfect in the first movement i serviced which was getting an amplitude of 272, with the new balance it's getting only about 200. I'm going to try re oiling the top jewel on the balance and see if htat helps but I got a feeling the hairspring needs a little reshaping.

Wtf is up with seiko hairsprings? I got 4 balances with hairsprings that aren't bent but need to be reshaped just a little to get them centered and working properly. I think ALL of them are from 7s26b movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Birbdad said:

Wtf is up with seiko hairsprings? I got 4 balances with hairsprings that aren't bent but need to be reshaped just a little to get them centered and working properly. I think ALL of them are from 7s26b movements.

I think Gert mentioned something about dodgy hairsprings on 7s26 b movements. They cheap, costs more to get a basic car valet these days, and thats by little freddy from the next street borrowing his mums Henri hoover and a pair of his big sisters knickers to polish your dashboard down with.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I think Gert mentioned something about dodgy hairsprings on 7s26 b movements. They cheap, costs more to get a basic car valet these days, and thats by little freddy from the next street borrowing his mums Henri hoover and a pair of his big sisters knickers to polish your dashboard down with.

Can you check freddy's availability for next week, my car is filthy

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, lexacat said:

Can you check freddy's availability for next week, my car is filthy

Will do. Hes out of little offenders for auto theft today , he likes some tunes on so if you can leave your keys in the ignition for him that would be great.

7 hours ago, thor447 said:

Next in line after @lexacat!!!  I wonder if there is a travel charge going between UK, Australia, and USA?

He said it depends on the market price of your car. 

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/29/2022 at 8:12 AM, mikepilk said:

Glad you got it sorted out in the end.

You have done very well - I have a Seiko 7S26 and can't get it above 240° ! Some Seiko's are like that.
(Next time I clean it I'll see if I can move the pallet jewels in a touch).

thanks. I"m pretty proud of myself. Both of my first services over 270...most of the time. getting 288 on one, and 271 on the other, though it's about 265 ish some of the time. i think it gets that 270 only at full wind. 

EIther way, This all turned out better than i thought it would.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

It’s a tall order for a first watch but it looks like you nailed it. Can I suggest you try a Sekonda for your next watch? A manual wind would be perfect.

The thing with Seiko is they are very good for learning Seiko but a Sekonda mimics Swiss movements so it will give you a better grounding. Also some of the Seiko jewel shock springs are a nightmare. Get some confidence with the Incabloc ones first

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...