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Jules Jurgenson wristwatch service

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Picked this handsome fellow up at a local jewelry store. The only things I know about it are the 5521 on the caseback, and it's got an AS 5206 movement in it. I don't see any other serial numbers on the movement. If anyone has more info, I'd love to hear.

The initial timegrapher trace was a little noisy and strange, so I'm looking forward to seeing what a service will do for it.

Mainspring looks good, so hopefully I'll just be replacing the crystal and maybe the crown gasket. I should probably get an assortment of those anyway.


Edited by ManSkirtBrew
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  • ManSkirtBrew changed the title to Jules Jurgenson wristwatch service
  • 2 weeks later...

Now that I have the jewel issue sorted out, I'm having a new problem. I figured it'd make sense to keep the question in this thread instead of starting a new one in the repair forum. Hope that's okay.

This is my first time working on a day/date mechanism, so please feel free to correct any of my assumptions here.

So there's a jumper gear at the red arrow here:


When the stem is pulled out to the center position, it moves left or right depending on how you turn the stem, presumably to set the date in one direction and the day in the other.

When the stem is in the winding or hand setting positions, it's held to the right so it doesn't engage with that brass wheel.

The problem is that jumper gear is extremely difficult to turn. Without that plate installed, the train runs free and there's power at the pallet fork. When I install that plate, the the train doesn't run at all. The pallet fork just hangs free between the escape wheel teeth.

The part I'm confused by is how did it run before? Is there something about the day/date mechanism that I'm missing here? As far as I can tell, that jumper gear isn't removable, so I'm not sure how I would fix it, either.

I feel like I'm missing some bit of knowledge here, and I'm hopeful this board has it.

EDIT: Well friends, turns out today I am a ding-dong, but I'll leave all this here for anyone in the future. In the end, I was able to problem solve my way to the answer, so I guess it's not so bad.

This small gear is upside down. The long part of its arbor interfaces with the nose of the stem, which lifts the gear up off the center one that's connected to the 3rd wheel. Flipping it over fixed the problem.

The gear I was originally talking about is still stiff to turn, but it's only used when setting the calendar works, so I'm guessing it's supposed to be that way.


Edited by ManSkirtBrew
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  • 2 weeks later...

There were many other problems along the way. I had problems with the balance jewels, the hairspring was all sticky, then I kept having issues with the watch stopping when I put the face on.

Turns out there's a friction ring that holds the date ring in place, and it was slightly interfering with the dial feet, causing the dial to put pressure on the hour wheel, stopping the movement. Drove me bananas for days tracking that down.

I learned a lot, and I think I'm a better repairer for it, though. And I've got a lovely Christmas gift for a young man to show for it.

I'm smitten by the pinstriped dial, and the new crystal really makes it pop.


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