Jump to content

Piece of mainplate has sheared off.


Recommended Posts

If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all.

Stripped down this old Vertex. It was all going well until I screwed in the crown wheel and the screw kept on turning. It is reverse threaded and I turned it the correct way.

First thought was that the screw had snapped but on lifting out the crown wheel I noticed that the threaded part of the mainplate had sheared off. I wasn't being heavy handed or even got to the point of giving the screw a final tighten. I managed to get the sheared piece of the screw and you can see the area and the piece in the attachment.

Is there any way to repair this or will it entail drilling, bushes etc which I am not really equipped for? Was thinking about a tiny bit of epoxy but don't know if it will hold.

vertex.jpg

Edited by SpringMangler
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's no fix for this that won't involve a lathe at least, and some skilled work on that machine. Any type of glue will definitely not hold up, and even very careful soldering would never come close to the strength of the original material.

 

If I needed to do this, I would bore the bridge out in a faceplate in the lathe, to the diameter of the broken off tube, then (from underside) make a small additional recess a little bit larger, perhaps just 0.10mm deep. This would accept a tube of the original diameter, which has a corresponding lip on it to fit the recess, that gets pressed in. Would need a left hand tap to thread the tube*. The press fit should hold up to the stress of tightening the screw, and the lip would prevent pullout under load from winding (the winding pinion pushes up on the crown wheel while turning it).

 

*For those without a full selection of left hand taps, which is pretty much everyone, on a piece like this in brass you can take a similar left hand screw from an assortment and file 3 flats at 120 degrees and make a tap that will work fine for a use like this.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I found this from a while back CS100 seems fine, but at around 500 Vickers it's not quite as hard as "blue" steel, but still harder than annealed. I'd try to find annealed (the post above has a U.K. supplier of small quantities).
    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel.  Thanks, Nev. Amplitude v. weak - balance wheel turns over arc of only ~20deg. Don't know how to calculate movement rate or safely vibrate balance spring! Meantime I have reduced the 'dishing' & clock no longer runs for more than a few minutes except face down which supports my theory that it was 'dished' as a hack to avoid doing a proper repair.
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
×
×
  • Create New...