Jump to content

Vulcain Cricket (S2315A cal.120)


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,  

 

I would like to present to you my latest project, a Vulcain Cricket (yes, another Cricket), model S2315A. I always wanted a Cricket, and it looks to me that Vulcain has made a lot of different variations of dials, watches etc. Cannot really find much info on the one I have. 

 

Initial condition overall: is running, but definitely needs servicing. It has a lot of DNA allover the place. Also, the watch came with its original bracelet (I wonder how that will turn out).

Movement: looks to be a cal.120. Not 100% sure as googling for this caliber brings different results. What do you think? Also had tested it on the timegrapher, results on the picture.

Crystal: needs a new one, as the original is cracked and has oxidation on the tension ring.  

Dial: looks pretty clean.  

Case: gold plating has some ware. Honestly not sure what to do as I have no setup of my own yet. Is it worth sending for replating?  

 

I am a newbie in the trade so any thoughts or suggestions are super welcome!

 

Thank you! 

photo1665483926 (1).jpeg

photo1665483931.jpeg

photo1665483926.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely Cal.120.....and the later version with incabloc balance bridge.  A nice watch. As to whether it's worth the cost of replating, the value is about 400-500 GBP serviced if sold in the UK 'as is' but could rise to 700-900 GBP depending on how the restoration of the case turns out.  

I've owned and worked on a few crickets and they are lovely little watches.  Recently re-released in a much larger contemporary sized case, they look ungainly to me but of course it's each to his own.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My kind of timepiece!! very nice… we’re up to three in our house- the one I wore today, the new one my wife wanted, and one waiting for me go get the nerve to dive in…

Based on your pics it could be tough call on the case if the dial is great. Wait till you get the scuzz of I’d reckon…

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Day 1. Disassembly or what do we really have. 

Crystal: Definitely needs to be replaced. When measuring I have 30.5-30.6mm, in the Sternkreuz Gezamtkatalog G22 there is only one that might fit is XAG306.697 (not sure how tight it would sit though). Also ho idea how it might look... Is it possible anyone knows the a part number?

Case and dial: Well I seen better dials, but also seen a lot worse. Does it make sense to invest in replanting the case? What do you guys think? 

Movement: Looks clean. But someone had laid his dirty little hands on it. The sprint ring, locker ring, on the alarm hand is damaged. 

msg639303616-45065.jpg

msg639303616-45067.jpg

msg639303616-45068.jpg

msg639303616-45069.jpg

msg639303616-45070.jpg

msg639303616-45066.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That spring is tough to find and seem to be easy to break.  When servicing: the spring, setting lever, and the unlocking wheel should not be disassembled...just keep together as a unit.  That is my humble view.

You can do gold electroplating yourself, but it is a pretty thin coat...costs under $100.  I have plated a few things. Frankly, I would not try to re-plate yours.

Your dial looks fine--leave it alone.

I have replaced several Cricket crystals but it has been a year.  I cannot recall if I used a Sternkreuz, GS Flexo, or some generic.  Do not use a low-dome crystal.  I seem to remember having an issue with the sweep second hitting the crystal.  Here is a side view of the Cricket I am wearing...OH NO...looks like there is a crack!  I know that I have accidentally whacked this thing a few times--I wear it constantly.

2022-10-19 08_07_38-20221019_080236.jpg ‎- Photos.png

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/14/2022 at 6:06 PM, swiss2k said:

Day 1. Disassembly or what do we really have. 

Crystal: Definitely needs to be replaced. When measuring I have 30.5-30.6mm, in the Sternkreuz Gezamtkatalog G22 there is only one that might fit is XAG306.697 (not sure how tight it would sit though). Also ho idea how it might look... Is it possible anyone knows the a part number?

Case and dial: Well I seen better dials, but also seen a lot worse. Does it make sense to invest in replanting the case? What do you guys think? 

Movement: Looks clean. But someone had laid his dirty little hands on it. The sprint ring, locker ring, on the alarm hand is damaged. 

msg639303616-45065.jpg

msg639303616-45067.jpg

msg639303616-45068.jpg

msg639303616-45069.jpg

msg639303616-45070.jpg

msg639303616-45066.jpg

Eyup matey thats a nice timepiece that gets a nod from folk in the know. I would leave the dial alone its ok, it looks like a thin coat lacquer that might lift along with some lettering if you try any restoration on it. Good luck with the plating it will be a cracking watch if it restores and polishes up  well.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update. 28 Oct. part 1.

From my last post I was searching for the spring that holds the alarm arm wheel. I did find a replacement. A word of advice, do not ever remove it, literally never. Only if its broken, other wise God forbid. Putting it back is such a pain. 

IMG_1570.jpg

Update. 28 Oct. part 2.

Movement. I am pretty sure everyone has this problem once in a while. When you ask your self if watchmaking is really something you want to spend your time on. 

Well this one really really tasted my patience. I had it assembled and disassembled back and forth 3-4 time. Was not running no matter what I do. Turns out the problem was in the balance wheel, with out its jewels it would rattle allover the place and not take up momentum (others that I worked on didn't behave that way).

 

So, from Rate +73, 167 Amp. and 1.5 Beat Error I have the following (check picture). 

 

Now it runs more or less stable, but some times speed up, some times slows down. Why?

Beat error. I could make it 0, but! if I do the balance speeds up so fast that adjusting to max slow position still doesn't help it. It runs +30-50s per day. What are my options? 

IMG_1571.jpg

Edited by swiss2k
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Where did you find rhe spring so quickly??

I assume that's sarcasm, or maybe not. But I couldn't even find a part number for that thing. So I contacted Vulcain, and ordered a couple from their newer models. Turn out they fit older models.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, swiss2k said:

I assume that's sarcasm, or maybe not. But I couldn't even find a part number for that thing. So I contacted Vulcain, and ordered a couple from their newer models. Turn out they fit older models.  

No, I was not sarcastic...truly questioning. 

Vulcain appears to be in somewhat of a revival state.  I have a sneaking suspicion that they are still using the Cal 120 platform.

Next question...will they sell parts to anyone??  It would be great if they did.

If I may inquire...what did they charge for the spring.  I bought one in 2021 for 20 Euro.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@LittleWatchShop " ... Cal 120 platform" - may be. New movements do look like the old ones. 

"... will they sell parts to anyone??" - yes they do, but from new series. They do not support old ones, I guess I just got lucky with the spring.  

"... 20 Euro." - yeah, that's more or less exactly what I payed. 

 

Any thoughts/advice on the issues I've motioned (with the beat error and balance wheel going fast then slower)? Thnx

Edited by swiss2k
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, swiss2k said:

@LittleWatchShop " ... Cal 120 platform" - may be. New movements do look like the old ones. 

"... will they sell parts to anyone??" - yes they do, but from new series. They do not support old ones, I guess I just got lucky with the spring.  

"... 20 Euro." - yeah, that's more or less exactly what I payed. 

 

Any thoughts/advice on the issues I've motioned (with the beat error and balance wheel going fast then slower)? Thnx

Can you post a readout from the timer?

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, swiss2k said:

2 problems.

1. When I adjust beat error to 0, rate goes to +50-60 and not adjustment helps. 
2. Amplitude jumps from 250 to 290 back and forth, witch affects rate. Does that on its own. 
 

That doesn't sound right !

How does the hairspring look at the regulator pins? Are the pins correctly spaced, is the spring pushing against one of the pins, is the hairspring vertical (not twisted) at the pins?

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, looks fine to me. 

It doesn't make sense that adjusting the beat error 1ms makes such a difference in rate - 1ms is only an angular movement of 2°. 

And the amplitude jumping around so much is odd.

I've had similar odd behaviour, and it turned out to be either a loose hairspring collet, or loose roller or jewel. Unlikely as your balance looks to be in original and excellent condition. But worth a check !

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What if there is some oil between the forth wheel and the escape wheel, and that oil is just on one side of it, I thought. What if its sticking on one side? 

I took off the escape wheel, the pallet fork and the forth wheel. Cleaned them one more time. Removed any oil that might have been on the pallet forks jewels (leaving the pallet fork unoiled). And assembled it all back. 

Results: Amplitude now is jumping from 300 to 320 (I assume that's because the pallet fork is now snappier)... Meaning I was partially right (about the above mentioned), but the problem still persists, only difference its in a higher range 😃 

 

 

B71A3B3A-0699-45B2-8D96-CB5172468142.jpeg

Edited by swiss2k
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An incabloc spring? About 10p at the current price 🤣
    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
×
×
  • Create New...