Jump to content

Tips for oiling capped jewels


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm well on my way to turning my Elgin 539 into a scrap movement 😄 I'm reaching out to ask for tips on oiling the balance end stones. I watched Marshall do it in this video but when trying this method out for myself, I can't fathom how this is possible without displacing the drop of oil.

I found the TM 9-1575 war department technical manual (what an awesome manual) which suggests the following:

Quote

To place oil in a capped jewel, a small drop should be placed on the oiler and fed into the space between the jewel and the end stone with a fine pointed wire or broach smaller than the jewel hole.

image.png.bfa3a33d7d72a17ec2bf68e8674a7302.png

Are they suggesting to guide an oiler through the upper jewel hole onto the end stone? For reference, here's the jewel with my smallest oiler - the spade tip thing is almost twice the diameter of the jewel hole. Has anyone tried this method with success?

image.thumb.png.88b66dce281b01567c95b189c7f4c072.png

cheers,

Fredrik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, a standard oiler won't generally fit, but it brings the oil drop to the hole. What actually goes through is the fine wire or broach, which does need to fit. I have a very fine strand taken from a wire brush that I keep in a cheap pin vise to use when oil needs to be fed/wicked/teased into the cap cavity. Some people use a very fine needle in the same way.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark has a good video showing his process (similar to the video linked in the original post but with clearer visuals) as well as the automatic oiler option:
 

 

Esslinger sells a tool ($9) for feeding the oil through to the cap jewel if you want to go that route:
 

https://www.esslinger.com/watch-oil-inserters-tool-balance-jewel-oiler/

Edited by GuyMontag
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

Mark has a good video showing his process (similar to the video linked in the original post but with clearer visuals) as well as the automatic oiler option

I attempted his method of oiling the lower end stone and it worked like a charm, thanks for the link!

2 hours ago, canthus said:

This available from Cousins UK.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/oilers-3-in-1-incabloc-specialist?code=O49487

Wire is very thin so needs care when using.

For the top jewels, I attempted the method suggested in the technical manual. I stripped a broken USB cable and snipped off one of the copper strands (technicall not MILSPEC I guess). Then, with a drop of oil placed over the jewel hole, I inserted the copper wire into the hole and lo, the oil wicked through onto the end stone like magic. I'm sure this is easier with proper tools, but it was fun to see how well it worked.

I'll give Mark's method for the top jewel a shot as well.

Thanks for the help guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
    • Once a movement has the dial and hands put back and it is recased, would you expect the assembled watch to have the same amplitude as when the movement is in a movement holder and is without hands and dial? Thanks
    • C07641+ not sure what the "+" is for after the last digit.
×
×
  • Create New...