Jump to content

Case back removed, thanks to the forum


Recommended Posts

I thought I'd share this although small I still think it's an achievement, for me anyway.

Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique, thinking the glue bond would give as soon as applied pressure, but I was left with no other option as it wasn't working with my case back tool. Kept slipping.

To my astonishment it held, and I started to get movement on the back, not without incident though as I managed to break one of the movement holder posts.

20220921_161825.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

I thought I'd share this although small I still think it's an achievement, for me anyway.

Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique, thinking the glue bond would give as soon as applied pressure, but I was left with no other option as it wasn't working with my case back tool. Kept slipping.

To my astonishment it held, and I started to get movement on the back, not without incident though as I managed to break one of the movement holder posts.

20220921_161825.jpg

Yeeyyyy -----------Boooooooo

20220921_161825.thumb.jpg.4d496de940a0189211429dcb0d52f5d4.jpg

6 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Yeeyyyy -----------Boooooooo

20220921_161825.thumb.jpg.4d496de940a0189211429dcb0d52f5d4.jpg

Just wondering if this was a helpful reply ? I am 55 years of chronological age which by my own calculations is exactly half a century more than my mental attitude age. Which coincidentally is exactly everyone else's that knows me calculations . Omg Rich is off on one today, forum members are disappearing as i write. 🙄

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/27/2022 at 8:40 PM, Bearman said:

Helpful to the point of making me smile. Love the doodles, exactly the faces I was pulling at the time.

Thought it might help in some PERCULIAR  way ( apparently i fit this discription ). Sometimes making someone laugh or just smile is worth the effort. Yep so another convertee to the glued on nut trick. 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

The glue/nut trick works most every time as long as you you use a good quality superglue (Loctite).  The back must have been put on by a Gorilla to damage the post or the post was flawed. I have had some stickers but none that broke the holder.

The trend for that method is growing WW. I used a pretty cheap cyanacrylate that i use for sticking upvc, it worked a treat. Getting the nut off the caseback not as much of a treat lol. I used every type of alcohol going except acetone which i didnt have. Nearly ended up having cider after the effort as well lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very much the convert to this method now. Most certainly put on by a gorilla, countered by gorilla super glue from the supermarket. Yes very surprised by the post breaking, at that point it started to budge, managed to continue on by repositioning the remaining three.

Not got round to getting the nut off the back. I have some IPA (which reminds me to pop to the shop for the beer variety later) I assume soaking in that will get it off?

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

The trend for that method is growing WW. I used a pretty cheap cyanacrylate that i use for sticking upvc, it worked a treat. Getting the nut off the caseback not as much of a treat lol. I used every type of alcohol going except acetone which i didnt have. Nearly ended up having cider after the effort as well lol.

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more. 😕

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

Very much the convert to this method now. Most certainly put on by a gorilla, countered by gorilla super glue from the supermarket. Yes very surprised by the post breaking, at that point it started to budge, managed to continue on by repositioning the remaining three.

Not got round to getting the nut off the back. I have some IPA (which reminds me to pop to the shop for the beer variety later) I assume soaking in that will get it off?

I tried soaking in IPA for a considerable length of time it didnt touch it, also lighter fluid again it didnt touch it. I used a weak superglue as well  but i did clamp the nut on to the case back for a day.  I eventually got the nut off by cutting away with a single edged razor blade, there was no gap at all probably from clamping. Once i got a cut under the nut it practically fell off. 

1 hour ago, Shane said:

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more. 😕

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

Cyanoacrylate does go off, especially in warm weather and sunlight, usually takes about a year. A standard hex nut is fine shane, I used a little chunky 19mm one.

1 hour ago, Shane said:

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more. 😕

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

When you do get round to trying it , post the results up mate inc. any unforseen damage occurrence. Then i can do you some nice little pictures to go along with the event. Unless you take umbrage to my humor, over react and spit your dummy out. . Oh what was that, have i said something ? Must be my peculiar sense of humor 🤷‍♂️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Jack75 said:

Or simply put it in the oven and then remove it with oven gloves

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven. 😠

Edited by Shane
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/30/2022 at 5:19 PM, Shane said:

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven. 😠

I just use a heat gun.  The method works every time.  I learned of it somewhere on this forum early last year.  I have the big Bulova case holder...I don't think you could break it with a tank!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/30/2022 at 11:19 PM, Shane said:

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven. 😠

I have the same problem with putting things in the fridge that I'm not supposed  to , like food, lots of it.

4 hours ago, swiss2k said:

@Bearman "Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique..."  😃  Ha. I actually once had a bigger problem removing the glue and the bold off the lid. 

Yep that happens too , usually finishes up cutting the end off the lid off and then putting a nail in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back again, whilst not having any nail polish remover I thought I'd give Jack75's suggestion a go to remove the bolt from the back. Thanks Jack75.

Anyway popped it in the oven for 20mins at 160 degrees. Took it out and tried to separate them without luck. Maybe it wasn't long enough?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Bearman said:

Back again, whilst not having any nail polish remover I thought I'd give Jack75's suggestion a go to remove the bolt from the back. Thanks Jack75.

Anyway popped it in the oven for 20mins at 160 degrees. Took it out and tried to separate them without luck. Maybe it wasn't long enough?

Go longer...not gonna hurt it.  Maybe even crank up the temp a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to hopefully find some acetone/nail varnish remover this weekend. 

What I forgot to mention before my cooking experiment. I did soak it in methylated sprit overnight, in the absence of anything else. No idea if this contributed to the ease of removal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Bearman said:

I'm going to hopefully find some acetone/nail varnish remover this weekend. 

Which will be a lot cheaper now than having your oven on full blast for 40 mins. A fiver to cook a Sunday lunch geez, our government needs to get this sorted. 🤨. Unless you wait till you cook dinner and do your nut roast on the bottom shelf.  Badum-cha. Tommy Cooper eat your heart out.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Acetone worked for me. Some of the cheap nail polish remover doesn't contain much acetone, it has oils and perfumes added, but you can get 100% acetone from either the local chemist or online.

One of my old friends had a business working with composites - carbon fibre, kevlar etc - for use in motor racing and used to go through gallons of 100% acetone for cleaning up very strong epoxy and polyester resins.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...