Jump to content

Case back removed, thanks to the forum


Recommended Posts

I thought I'd share this although small I still think it's an achievement, for me anyway.

Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique, thinking the glue bond would give as soon as applied pressure, but I was left with no other option as it wasn't working with my case back tool. Kept slipping.

To my astonishment it held, and I started to get movement on the back, not without incident though as I managed to break one of the movement holder posts.

20220921_161825.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

I thought I'd share this although small I still think it's an achievement, for me anyway.

Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique, thinking the glue bond would give as soon as applied pressure, but I was left with no other option as it wasn't working with my case back tool. Kept slipping.

To my astonishment it held, and I started to get movement on the back, not without incident though as I managed to break one of the movement holder posts.

20220921_161825.jpg

Yeeyyyy -----------Boooooooo

20220921_161825.thumb.jpg.4d496de940a0189211429dcb0d52f5d4.jpg

6 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Yeeyyyy -----------Boooooooo

20220921_161825.thumb.jpg.4d496de940a0189211429dcb0d52f5d4.jpg

Just wondering if this was a helpful reply ? I am 55 years of chronological age which by my own calculations is exactly half a century more than my mental attitude age. Which coincidentally is exactly everyone else's that knows me calculations . Omg Rich is off on one today, forum members are disappearing as i write. 🙄

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/27/2022 at 8:40 PM, Bearman said:

Helpful to the point of making me smile. Love the doodles, exactly the faces I was pulling at the time.

Thought it might help in some PERCULIAR  way ( apparently i fit this discription ). Sometimes making someone laugh or just smile is worth the effort. Yep so another convertee to the glued on nut trick. 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

The glue/nut trick works most every time as long as you you use a good quality superglue (Loctite).  The back must have been put on by a Gorilla to damage the post or the post was flawed. I have had some stickers but none that broke the holder.

The trend for that method is growing WW. I used a pretty cheap cyanacrylate that i use for sticking upvc, it worked a treat. Getting the nut off the caseback not as much of a treat lol. I used every type of alcohol going except acetone which i didnt have. Nearly ended up having cider after the effort as well lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very much the convert to this method now. Most certainly put on by a gorilla, countered by gorilla super glue from the supermarket. Yes very surprised by the post breaking, at that point it started to budge, managed to continue on by repositioning the remaining three.

Not got round to getting the nut off the back. I have some IPA (which reminds me to pop to the shop for the beer variety later) I assume soaking in that will get it off?

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

The trend for that method is growing WW. I used a pretty cheap cyanacrylate that i use for sticking upvc, it worked a treat. Getting the nut off the caseback not as much of a treat lol. I used every type of alcohol going except acetone which i didnt have. Nearly ended up having cider after the effort as well lol.

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more. 😕

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

Very much the convert to this method now. Most certainly put on by a gorilla, countered by gorilla super glue from the supermarket. Yes very surprised by the post breaking, at that point it started to budge, managed to continue on by repositioning the remaining three.

Not got round to getting the nut off the back. I have some IPA (which reminds me to pop to the shop for the beer variety later) I assume soaking in that will get it off?

I tried soaking in IPA for a considerable length of time it didnt touch it, also lighter fluid again it didnt touch it. I used a weak superglue as well  but i did clamp the nut on to the case back for a day.  I eventually got the nut off by cutting away with a single edged razor blade, there was no gap at all probably from clamping. Once i got a cut under the nut it practically fell off. 

1 hour ago, Shane said:

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more. 😕

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

Cyanoacrylate does go off, especially in warm weather and sunlight, usually takes about a year. A standard hex nut is fine shane, I used a little chunky 19mm one.

1 hour ago, Shane said:

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more. 😕

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

When you do get round to trying it , post the results up mate inc. any unforseen damage occurrence. Then i can do you some nice little pictures to go along with the event. Unless you take umbrage to my humor, over react and spit your dummy out. . Oh what was that, have i said something ? Must be my peculiar sense of humor 🤷‍♂️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Jack75 said:

Or simply put it in the oven and then remove it with oven gloves

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven. 😠

Edited by Shane
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/30/2022 at 5:19 PM, Shane said:

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven. 😠

I just use a heat gun.  The method works every time.  I learned of it somewhere on this forum early last year.  I have the big Bulova case holder...I don't think you could break it with a tank!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/30/2022 at 11:19 PM, Shane said:

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven. 😠

I have the same problem with putting things in the fridge that I'm not supposed  to , like food, lots of it.

4 hours ago, swiss2k said:

@Bearman "Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique..."  😃  Ha. I actually once had a bigger problem removing the glue and the bold off the lid. 

Yep that happens too , usually finishes up cutting the end off the lid off and then putting a nail in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back again, whilst not having any nail polish remover I thought I'd give Jack75's suggestion a go to remove the bolt from the back. Thanks Jack75.

Anyway popped it in the oven for 20mins at 160 degrees. Took it out and tried to separate them without luck. Maybe it wasn't long enough?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Bearman said:

Back again, whilst not having any nail polish remover I thought I'd give Jack75's suggestion a go to remove the bolt from the back. Thanks Jack75.

Anyway popped it in the oven for 20mins at 160 degrees. Took it out and tried to separate them without luck. Maybe it wasn't long enough?

Go longer...not gonna hurt it.  Maybe even crank up the temp a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to hopefully find some acetone/nail varnish remover this weekend. 

What I forgot to mention before my cooking experiment. I did soak it in methylated sprit overnight, in the absence of anything else. No idea if this contributed to the ease of removal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Bearman said:

I'm going to hopefully find some acetone/nail varnish remover this weekend. 

Which will be a lot cheaper now than having your oven on full blast for 40 mins. A fiver to cook a Sunday lunch geez, our government needs to get this sorted. 🤨. Unless you wait till you cook dinner and do your nut roast on the bottom shelf.  Badum-cha. Tommy Cooper eat your heart out.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Acetone worked for me. Some of the cheap nail polish remover doesn't contain much acetone, it has oils and perfumes added, but you can get 100% acetone from either the local chemist or online.

One of my old friends had a business working with composites - carbon fibre, kevlar etc - for use in motor racing and used to go through gallons of 100% acetone for cleaning up very strong epoxy and polyester resins.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
    • just as a reminder this watch is a Swatch group product. This will bring up a problem like spare parts and technical information. that I found some links to some information on when I talk about your watch and some of the technical and basically your watch is equivalent to 2834-2 for which I'm attaching the technical sheets. But equivalent does not mean exactly the same you want to do a search on the group for C07 as we discussed this watch before including the technical differences how it's supposed to be regulated and basically because it's watch group there is no parts availability. https://calibercorner.com/eta-caliber-c07-xxx/   https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/eta-movements-from-the-2824-2-to-the-powermatic-80-p_80840/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/h-10-movement-details.4636991/ eta CT_2834-2_FDE_481857_15.pdf
    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
×
×
  • Create New...