Case back removed, thanks to the forum

[Bearman]

I thought I'd share this although small I still think it's an achievement, for me anyway.

Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique, thinking the glue bond would give as soon as applied pressure, but I was left with no other option as it wasn't working with my case back tool. Kept slipping.

To my astonishment it held, and I started to get movement on the back, not without incident though as I managed to break one of the movement holder posts.

[Neverenoughwatches]

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

I thought I'd share this although small I still think it's an achievement, for me anyway.

Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique, thinking the glue bond would give as soon as applied pressure, but I was left with no other option as it wasn't working with my case back tool. Kept slipping.

To my astonishment it held, and I started to get movement on the back, not without incident though as I managed to break one of the movement holder posts.

Yeeyyyy -----------Boooooooo

6 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Yeeyyyy -----------Boooooooo

Just wondering if this was a helpful reply ? I am 55 years of chronological age which by my own calculations is exactly half a century more than my mental attitude age. Which coincidentally is exactly everyone else's that knows me calculations . Omg Rich is off on one today, forum members are disappearing as i write.

[Bearman]

Helpful to the point of making me smile. Love the doodles, exactly the faces I was pulling at the time.

[Neverenoughwatches]

On 9/27/2022 at 8:40 PM, Bearman said:

Helpful to the point of making me smile. Love the doodles, exactly the faces I was pulling at the time.

Thought it might help in some PERCULIAR  way ( apparently i fit this discription ). Sometimes making someone laugh or just smile is worth the effort. Yep so another convertee to the glued on nut trick.

[watchweasol]

The glue/nut trick works most every time as long as you you use a good quality superglue (Loctite).  The back must have been put on by a Gorilla to damage the post or the post was flawed. I have had some stickers but none that broke the holder.

[Neverenoughwatches]

25 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

The glue/nut trick works most every time as long as you you use a good quality superglue (Loctite).  The back must have been put on by a Gorilla to damage the post or the post was flawed. I have had some stickers but none that broke the holder.

The trend for that method is growing WW. I used a pretty cheap cyanacrylate that i use for sticking upvc, it worked a treat. Getting the nut off the caseback not as much of a treat lol. I used every type of alcohol going except acetone which i didnt have. Nearly ended up having cider after the effort as well lol.

[Bearman]

Very much the convert to this method now. Most certainly put on by a gorilla, countered by gorilla super glue from the supermarket. Yes very surprised by the post breaking, at that point it started to budge, managed to continue on by repositioning the remaining three.

Not got round to getting the nut off the back. I have some IPA (which reminds me to pop to the shop for the beer variety later) I assume soaking in that will get it off?

[Shane]

8 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

The trend for that method is growing WW. I used a pretty cheap cyanacrylate that i use for sticking upvc, it worked a treat. Getting the nut off the caseback not as much of a treat lol. I used every type of alcohol going except acetone which i didnt have. Nearly ended up having cider after the effort as well lol.

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more.

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

[Neverenoughwatches]

1 hour ago, Bearman said:

Very much the convert to this method now. Most certainly put on by a gorilla, countered by gorilla super glue from the supermarket. Yes very surprised by the post breaking, at that point it started to budge, managed to continue on by repositioning the remaining three.

Not got round to getting the nut off the back. I have some IPA (which reminds me to pop to the shop for the beer variety later) I assume soaking in that will get it off?

I tried soaking in IPA for a considerable length of time it didnt touch it, also lighter fluid again it didnt touch it. I used a weak superglue as well  but i did clamp the nut on to the case back for a day.  I eventually got the nut off by cutting away with a single edged razor blade, there was no gap at all probably from clamping. Once i got a cut under the nut it practically fell off. 

1 hour ago, Shane said:

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more.

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

Cyanoacrylate does go off, especially in warm weather and sunlight, usually takes about a year. A standard hex nut is fine shane, I used a little chunky 19mm one.

1 hour ago, Shane said:

I have not used this technique as of yet but I will keep the concept in my back pocket just in case.  I would think that using a flange nut.  Being round, it would give you a greater contact patch upon the case back and transfer greater torque then a regular hex nut.  That said, it doesn't seem to have been the limiting factor in this case.  If I'm not mistaken, acetone is the solvent of choice for disssolving cyanoacrylate on the cheep.

Unfortunately Krazy glue and I do not get along.  I keep buying it and it keeps getting hard in the unopened tube before I need it...  I don't understand why but think that it's probably time to buy some more.

Thanks everyone for the discussion.

Shane 

When you do get round to trying it , post the results up mate inc. any unforseen damage occurrence. Then i can do you some nice little pictures to go along with the event. Unless you take umbrage to my humor, over react and spit your dummy out. . Oh what was that, have i said something ? Must be my peculiar sense of humor

[watchweasol]

The best method to remove the nut, It to fill the centre with acetone (nail polish remover) and leave it for a while whilst it dissolves the glue then clean it off with more acetone, job  done. polish remover costs about thirty bob  £1,50 at Superdrug/Semichem.

[Jack75]

Or simply put it in the oven and then remove it with oven gloves

[Jack75]

Just did it on a Rolex with a domed nut. The neoprene seal was removed first. In the oven at 160 deg C the hot expanding air in the dome pushed off the nut.

[Shane]

6 hours ago, Jack75 said:

Or simply put it in the oven and then remove it with oven gloves

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven.

Edited September 30, 2022 by Shane

[swiss2k]

@Bearman "Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique..."    Ha. I actually once had a bigger problem removing the glue and the bold off the lid. 

[LittleWatchShop]

On 9/30/2022 at 5:19 PM, Shane said:

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven.

I just use a heat gun.  The method works every time.  I learned of it somewhere on this forum early last year.  I have the big Bulova case holder...I don't think you could break it with a tank!

[Neverenoughwatches]

On 9/30/2022 at 11:19 PM, Shane said:

Red locktigh wich I believe is still cyanoacrylate based.  Things, in certain circumstances, can only be loosened without damage after applying heat.

The above makes sense but I'm sure it can make your wife a bit miffed if she finds that in her oven.

I have the same problem with putting things in the fridge that I'm not supposed  to , like food, lots of it.

4 hours ago, swiss2k said:

@Bearman "Very skeptical of the superglue and nut technique..."    Ha. I actually once had a bigger problem removing the glue and the bold off the lid. 

Yep that happens too , usually finishes up cutting the end off the lid off and then putting a nail in it.

[swiss2k]

@Neverenoughwatcheswell in my case I user hot water. The glue that I used does not like high temp. So after 2-3 time heating in boiled water the glue broke off and I had left a clean lid. 

[Bearman]

Back again, whilst not having any nail polish remover I thought I'd give Jack75's suggestion a go to remove the bolt from the back. Thanks Jack75.

Anyway popped it in the oven for 20mins at 160 degrees. Took it out and tried to separate them without luck. Maybe it wasn't long enough?

[LittleWatchShop]

22 minutes ago, Bearman said:

Back again, whilst not having any nail polish remover I thought I'd give Jack75's suggestion a go to remove the bolt from the back. Thanks Jack75.

Anyway popped it in the oven for 20mins at 160 degrees. Took it out and tried to separate them without luck. Maybe it wasn't long enough?

Go longer...not gonna hurt it.  Maybe even crank up the temp a bit.

[Bearman]

Success!

Went longer and hotter as Littlewatchshop suggested. 200 degrees for 40 mins. Using oven gloves, just peeled apart. Now to get the residue off.

[Neverenoughwatches]

7 minutes ago, Bearman said:

Success!

Went longer and hotter as Littlewatchshop suggested. 200 degrees for 40 mins. Using oven gloves, just peeled apart. Now to get the residue off.

Did you try any other solvents BM

[LittleWatchShop]

Soak in acetone

[Bearman]

I'm going to hopefully find some acetone/nail varnish remover this weekend. 

What I forgot to mention before my cooking experiment. I did soak it in methylated sprit overnight, in the absence of anything else. No idea if this contributed to the ease of removal.

[Neverenoughwatches]

2 hours ago, Bearman said:

I'm going to hopefully find some acetone/nail varnish remover this weekend. 

Which will be a lot cheaper now than having your oven on full blast for 40 mins. A fiver to cook a Sunday lunch geez, our government needs to get this sorted. . Unless you wait till you cook dinner and do your nut roast on the bottom shelf.  Badum-cha. Tommy Cooper eat your heart out.

Edited October 7, 2022 by Neverenoughwatches

[SpringMangler]

Acetone worked for me. Some of the cheap nail polish remover doesn't contain much acetone, it has oils and perfumes added, but you can get 100% acetone from either the local chemist or online.

One of my old friends had a business working with composites - carbon fibre, kevlar etc - for use in motor racing and used to go through gallons of 100% acetone for cleaning up very strong epoxy and polyester resins.