Jump to content

Fusee skeleton clock


Recommended Posts

Hi i have a skeleton clock it appears to be cast brass and hand made, it seems to be quite old and the materials it is made from seem to be of good quality, however the workmanship is very poor, e.g the plates have not been finished properly in corners the crossing out of the wheels is bad and there are tool marks left on some of the components. Has anyone got any ideas on the age or maybe the reason for the poor workmanship. 






  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

At one time skeleton clocks were thought to be apprentice pieces due to the description you have given. I can tell you that is not so. What you have and described is common and most are in the same condition, finished to a poor standard compared  to other fusee movements. The design of the plates are very common (Steeple) and a very basic movement. Spade shape are the hands. Be very careful with cast brass what ever you do do not clean it in an ultrasonic machine as it and will damage cast brass. It's  Victorian I would say. Never replace the line with that wire that you can buy as it will wear the thin sides of the cone and mark the barrel. Nylon coated of the synthetic line is best.  

Edited by oldhippy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@oldhippy hi, thank you very much for your comments, its a real surprise for me to think that a clockmaker could come up with this level of craftmanship, as you can see from the pictures the filing has not been finished properly into the corners and holes have been drilled twice because the 1st one was in the wrong place, do you think i should leave it as it is or finish it to a better standard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Search this forum for "expiration" and you will get some opinions. According to @nickelsilver (whom I trust), they do not matter at all. Makes sense for synthetic oils.
    • I would never criticize anyone for working within his or her means.  If you are getting any results or encouragement using what you have or can afford at this time, more power to you. From each according to his ability, to each according to his needs.  Karl Marx I do hope Santa comes through for you. Good luck and keep plugging away. PS: that's a handsome looking watch. Shane 
    • Hello I don't have any experience with the expiration dates on oils. My question is how long after the expiration date is the lubricant still effective or do I need to rush out and replace it right away? I have three oils that have expiration dates of: D - 5 = 10 / 2022, 941 & 9010 = 11 / 2022.  From the Mobius web site I see that: D - 5 is a "mixture of mineral and refined vegetable oils" 941 & 9010 are synthetic.   Thanks in advance for any help that can be given.   
    • yes I agree this is not a long term solution and I have written a letter to santa telling him to bring me expensive greases and oils for christmas...(my how ones desires change with age) and this was more of an exercise in getting an old cheapo banger stripping it, and putting it back together using my 150 euro microscope...(yes I am investing in tools for this) which has been a great help to my eyesight as squinting down a loupe is just not for me.  I would rather got the THX 1138 route and remotely manipulate things whilst looking into its rather largeish screen. Rather than looking directly at them via a loup, it works for me, as I have high visual and spatial awareness so grabbing things with tweezers sight unseen but on screen has been pretty easy for me. But it's crap for filming as the microscope is so low you can't get your hand in under it with a screwy so your having to drag it out of vision all the time to nail somehting down. but I do not intend to start youtubing either on my van fixes or my watch repair as no one wants to hear a Yorkshireman chuntering throwing tools about and swearing all the time about stuff... But It would probably go viral as the kids would have field day mashing it up probably. but I do not want to be a tv star, I leave that to those good at that... But I see you have been following and replying to my posts and I thank you for your interest...But of course i am going to buy the oils mark recommended as if you want to seriously service a watch you need both them and an ultrasonic cleaning machine... But as it stands I have spent more on tools and equipment than on watches...but I will be ready for the gem of a seamaster or rolex when i find it in a thrift store... But my scores so far are 7009A achieved, although the intermediate date wheel was totally banjaxxed in both the movement I bought and the donor movement (i am now the man to see for 7009a parts) and i am begging anyone and everyone for their contribution of one of those. Although I have to tell the truth and I did destroy the first original balance in the 7009A with my hamfistedness but all in the learning curve. but the problem there is that the hour wheel spins loose probably because the intermediate date wheel is not there to hold it...but the second hand ticks along like a champion and the magic lever is working as it should so when I get the wheel it should be wearable... and The Unitas 176 Achieved in the Cauny 17 rubis Antimagnetic which now works and keeps pretty good time with just 3 in 1 and car grease, but like you so rightly said probably not for very long... But I worked it out that if I greased the CV joints with braking grease and the rest of the grease points on my Renault master van, then the whole vehicle would be worth more than a Ferrarri...
    • You got that right! I don't remember what Alex suggests in his lubrication video but I seem to recall it wasn't going out and purchasing $200 worth of Moebius oils for your first foray into watch repair. Rather than "car grease" you might look at picking up some Molykote and Singer sewing machine oil might be better than 3-in-1 for doing jewels.  While your "freshly lubricated" scrap movements may seem just fine after treating them with 3-in-1 and car grease, the 3-in-1 will likely dry out and get gummy after a while. One of the guys here was in the process of assembling "starter kits" with small quantities of good watch oils but I don't know where he is on that project.  
  • Create New...