Jump to content

Reshaping bunched up hairsprings with etachron adjustments....


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Shane said:

 

Yeah, I know what you mean, I'm getting really good at trashing hairsprings. 😭

 

You can read all the books and watch all the videos in the world. But nothing beats first hands experience. I still trash hairsprings due to clumsiness/complacency on occasion. Experience is the best teacher so don’t beat yourself up too much about it

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Shane said:

I think the smaller diameter of a watch makers screwdriver, even one of the larger ones, would not give you the same torque and control that the larger diameter of the correct tool provides.  Don't get me wrong, I'm all for not spending the 40 bucks but look at the design (most of the time things are the way they are for a reason) and try to duplicate that.  If their decisions don't reflect your needs, you (of course) have the freedom to make your own choices.

Yeah, I know what you mean, I'm getting really good at trashing hairsprings. 😭

Shane 

Thanks @JohnR725our previous conversation really helped me visualize and follow this thread.

 

Well I've been racking my brain on other ways to come up with this thing. Jon's design is brilliant but it would cost me like 60 dollars in tools and several hours to create a 40 dollar tool haha. 

I was thinking something could probably be 3d printed pretty easily but then he stressed this has to be heat hardened steel so that makes me think a 3d print wouldn't work at all. If somebody had a cnc it would probably be super simple to make a bit that could fit a bergeon driver or some other larger driver 🤔 It might not be quite as good as the bergeon but it would probably be good enough for government work as they say.  Sadly the maker space here which did have such a machine did not survive covid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Birbdad said:

"If somebody had a cnc"

"maker space here"

The maker space here has the equipment and I have some cnc experience from a previous life but I have let my membership lapse and their two hours away in each direction.  Not to mention that I am not very social.  I do not knock those guys in the slightest but if you go there to make something you wind up repeatedly teaching a class, to every person passing by, about why you're doing it the way that you're doing it.  Some people really get into doing that...  I don't; at least not in person and not to people who are really only interrupting you because they think that's just being polite.  It's not that I don't like helping people or explaining myself, it's just when I do it in this format, I rarely get home after midnight. 

Forty bucks is starting to sound better.😔

Edited by Shane
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...