Reference Photos - Which Digital Camera Is Best?

[Lawson]

Hi fellow watch nutaronnies.

 

Many people have commented on the reference photos I take in my walkthroughs, so I thought I'd share with you what I use.

 

Good clear reference photos can make such a difference when working on a new caliber that's unfamiliar to you.

Seeing the results of photos taken by digital cameras on mobile phones, it is apparent they do not have the macro focusing ability to capture the fine details needed to make re-assembly of difficult new calibers hassle free.  I personally brought a new Sony Xperia Z3 Compact phone, with a 20.5mp camera, and was still very disappointed by it's macro images.  It's not just the resolution that makes a good picture, the lens of the camera play just as big a part in the image quality.

 

The camera I continue to use for my reference images is from Sea&Sea, and the model is a DX-1G.

I purchased this camera many years ago for underwater filming and photography, as I was an avid scuba driver.

I wanted a camera to capture the fine details of the corals, and all the small and wonderful creatures that inhabit the reefs.

 

 

For a compact digital camera, I have not seen it's equal in macro photography even to this day.

Neither have others, so this model of Sea&Sea is very sort after and still sells for nearly US$1000 :o ... I'm glad I brought mine when I did!!

 

The good news is that the rare and expensive Sea&Sea DX-1G, is actually a just Ricoh GX-100 with the circuitry tweaked by Sea&Sea for underwater lighting conditions.

 

 

The Ricoh GX-100 seems to be discontinued but secondhand ones come up for auction on fleabay all the time ... in fact there is one for sale right now (13/6/2015) including all the optional accessories, with a buy now of £99.00!!

Here's the link: Ricoh GX-100 on FleaBay

 

So if you're looking for a reasonably priced digital camera, to take excellent macro reference images, I highly recommend this camera, and you can see it's results in my walkthroughs.

 

 

[Mark]

I used to use a Panasonic TZ7 and was always happy with the macro ability. It actually takes quite good HD video too.

 

 

Now I mainly use my Canon DSLR with a macro lens just because I have it. But the TZ7 was very good for the purpose.

 

[WillFly]

I've had a Fuji Finepix 6.3 Megapixel compact for several years, and it stands up well to others I bought.

 

Some months ago I picked up a nearly-new Sony bridge camera with 20 Megapixels - but it wasn't a patch on the Fuji. All bells and whistles but a very average lens. I gave it to my son.

 

I actually got out my old Pentax S1a the other day - the lens is superb, a Super Takumar 55mm, and I'm going to try and fit it to a modern Canon EOS body. I might get the best of both worlds: a digital capture with a high-quality lens.

[Geo]

I actually got out my old Pentax S1a the other day - the lens is superb, a Super Takumar 55mm, and I'm going to try and fit it to a modern Canon EOS body. I might get the best of both worlds: a digital capture with a high-quality lens.

Damn good lenses these old Takumars, I look forward to seeing how you get on. :)

[Blacklab]

Like mark I still use a Panasonic TZ9 (much the same as the TZ7) for the reference shots, however I find the phone - an LG G2 gives slightly better results & use it for the before & after library pics.

[SteveFitzwater]

I use a Nikon D5100 with a Nikon DX AF-S 40mm Macro lens, while it does a good job with those close up shots, the lens leaves me wanting something more powerful, the working distance is very limited, I have no idea how Mark and others who use these for recording their work are able to work on their watch.. I am looking for other options, as I have setup a boom over my workspace, and tend to record when I take apart a watch that I have not worked on before, to help with the old grey matter that is failing..

[Marc]

Canon PowerShot A720 IS with an LED ring light for illumination.

It's an 8 mega pixel sensor with a standard quality canon lens.

For me the most important feature is the ability to manually control the aperture. I also have a Lumix TZ7 like Marks which has a far superior lens to the Canon but is fully auto so has no means to control the aperture.

By stopping down the Canon lens to its smallest aperture I can get the very best image quality out of it as well as the maximum depth of field, the ring light allows me to do this and still hand hold the camera.

My only issue with this set up is that the lens has a scratch on its from element which does sometimes flare the image slightly. 

[DouglasSkinner]

I have the Panasonic TZ7 too.  Haven't had much success with it when taking detailed pictures of small stuff like hairsprings.  Maybe I haven't found the right settings?

[Blacklab]

I have the Panasonic TZ7 too.  Haven't had much success with it when taking detailed pictures of small stuff like hairsprings.  Maybe I haven't found the right settings?

There is a macro setting on the bottom button of the menu dial on the back, this can be accessed via the menu as well. 

[WillFly]

I popped into my local camera shop a few days ago to discuss the possibilities of linking my old Super-Takumar 55m lens to a modern DSLR body. After some conversation, it seems like the Canon EOS range offers some decent options, so I started by ordering a M42-EOS converter ring which came this morning from an eBay supplier.

 

The important point is that the old lens will be effectively decoupled from the new body electronics and setting, so adjustments can only be accurately made with certain of the setting options - but it's not impossible - and the beauty of the digital system is that the end result can be seen straightaway. After some deliberation, I've decided that I'll test out the Canon EOS 70D model:

 

http://http://www.canon.co.uk/for_home/product_finder/cameras/digital_slr/eos_70d/

 

which is within my price range. There are later models but they don't appear to add much more.

 

As far as macro photography is concerned, it'll be interesting to see how it matches up to the macro setting on my Fuji compact - which isn't half bad. My old Pentax-style gear from the 60s includes a Soligor 200mm lens, a 2x converter and a 3-piece set of macro rings for absolute close-up work. I used the last-named rings recently on a roll of 35mm TX400 b&w negative film - bracketing from high to low exposure - and it'll be interesting to see the results of that. I've decided to get a Canon lens as well as the body - to make full use of all the digital facilities when I don't want to use the Takumar lens.

 

As it happens, I'm lucky to have a high quality photographic processing (analog & digital) shop not too far from me. I strolled in to ask if he still did b&w developing and printing. The answer, amazingly to me, was: "More than ever - it's shot up in the last two to three years!" I was surprised and pleased at the same time. A bit like back-to-vinyl.

 

Anyway, more later...

[Mark]

Will, for the 70d which is cropped I cannot recommend this lens enough: http://www.canon.co.uk/for_home/product_finder/cameras/ef_lenses/ef-s/ef-s_60mm_f2.8_macro_usm/

 

I has served me very well and the focal length is just perfect for taking pictures of watches.

 

If you are doing out and about macro shots then the 100mm would be better. http://www.canon.co.uk/for_home/product_finder/cameras/ef_lenses/macro/ef_100mm_f2.8_macro_usm/

 

Plus with them being specific to your camera the auto-focus/exposure will work perfectly :)

 

 

I guarantee your new 70d will absolutely love either of those two lenses.

 

Another great lens for out and about is the EFS 17-85mm which is a good lens for landscapes or portrait. I picked mine up for £40 off the bay I was upset when it did not work correctly and had to replace the ribbon (a few quid extra) to get it working properly and it's been fantastic ever since. (remember the thread? http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/793-and-now-for-something-completely-different/)

 

The USM in all these lenses make the focusing very smooth, fast and quiet.

[WillFly]

Thanks for the info, Mark - that's greatly appreciated!

 

My understanding of the Canon kit range is that a "cropped" DSLR will take both full-frame and crop-frame lenses, but that full-frame DSLR bodies will not - so the 70D or near equivalent seems like a sensible bet.

 

Will

[Mark]

Thats absolutely correct Will.

 

You can use the L lenses on your 70d but you can't use the EF-S lenses on, say, a 5d.

 

 

If you can afford the L lenses then you can keep the glass if you upgrade to full frame in the future.

 

I think the Canon crops to 1.6x so a 60mm focal length on your 70d will be effectively 96mm

[WillFly]

Mmm... I've been contemplating the full 36x24mm Canon body, but the price goes right up. Have you much experience of both full-frame and cropped?

 

Obviously I'm very interested in macro photography for watch movements, but it's not the only future use for any camera that I get.

[clockboy]

I have a Nikon D7000 &  a Nikon macro lens. However although it takes excellent close up shots I find it in the way when trying to work on a watch/clock.I spend more time trying to focus without touching what I am working on than working on the watch. Wondering if there is a rig up that would be above the work so it does not get in the way.

[Mark]

Mmm... I've been contemplating the full 36x24mm Canon body, but the price goes right up. Have you much experience of both full-frame and cropped?

 

Obviously I'm very interested in macro photography for watch movements, but it's not the only future use for any camera that I get.

 

I have not had a full frame, but I am not tempted to get one either TBH. I am perfectly happy with my current setup. As they say - if it aint broke... :)

However, to answer your question - I think if you had full frame then it is better for landscapes as you can basically fit more in. Especially with a wide angle lens. When cropped to 1.6x the camera view is that much closer. The 17mm on my tele lens is really 27.2mm which can be a bit constricting but not much - it's usually OK for my purposes.

 

I am only a novice, if there is a more professional photographer on the board maybe they can chime in.

 

 

I have a Nikon D7000 &  a Nikon macro lens. However although it takes excellent close up shots I find it in the way when trying to work on a watch/clock.I spend more time trying to focus without touching what I am working on than working on the watch. Wondering if there is a rig up that would be above the work so it does not get in the way.

 

As I understand it, the greater the focal length, the further away your camera can be. My macro lens is 60mm and the crop on my camera is 1.6x (it's 1.5x on your Nikon). So my camera is fine on a tripod about the height of my forehead. It kind of works well.

 

What is the focal length of your macro lens?

[dbals]

I have a cheap ~$100 Vivitar 100mm Macro lens for my Canon 7D and it is very sharp but if you use autofocus- it will be slow.  You can get vivitars for most slr mounts.

[clockboy]

The Nikon 7000 is not a full frame. But the Macro lens you have to get real close to focus & a tripod is required as it is real sensitive to camera shake. Are the cannons easy to focus as you go without to mush fuss. I don,t get to bad a result with my iPhone but for the finer stuff I need something better but not intrusive when working.

[dbals]

The Nikon 7000 is not a full frame. But the Macro lens you have to get real close to focus & a tripod is required as it is real sensitive to camera shake. Are the cannons easy to focus as you go without to mush fuss. I don,t get to bad a result with my iPhone but for the finer stuff I need something better but not intrusive when working.

It'll be almost the same, I learned years ago when using macro lens to manual focus.  I would suspect you should get a red flash of when something is in focus even in manual focus setting.   I now use magic lantern alternative firmware for my camera, which makes the confirmation of focus easier with things such as, 10X magnified box for center focus and even using zebras to detect in and out of focus areas.  I would suggest not using  a  1:1 filter if your lens comes with it as with the crop factor makes it 1.5:1 for Nikon and 1.6:1 for canon. Also, try to keep at least an f8 aperture (usually the sweet spot for most lenses) and don't use like f16+ because it will make the image fuzzy.

[Mark]

Yes - I use manual focus with my macro lens and just gently rock the camera backwards and forwards until the red light bleeps.

[clockboy]

Thanks guys will have a another look after next week (short break in Italy next week)

[dbals]

I popped into my local camera shop a few days ago to discuss the possibilities of linking my old Super-Takumar 55m lens to a modern DSLR body. After some conversation, it seems like the Canon EOS range offers some decent options, so I started by ordering a M42-EOS converter ring which came this morning from an eBay supplier.

 

The important point is that the old lens will be effectively decoupled from the new body electronics and setting, so adjustments can only be accurately made with certain of the setting options - but it's not impossible - and the beauty of the digital system is that the end result can be seen straightaway. After some deliberation, I've decided that I'll test out the Canon EOS 70D model:

 

http://http://www.canon.co.uk/for_home/product_finder/cameras/digital_slr/eos_70d/

 

which is within my price range. There are later models but they don't appear to add much more.

 

As far as macro photography is concerned, it'll be interesting to see how it matches up to the macro setting on my Fuji compact - which isn't half bad. My old Pentax-style gear from the 60s includes a Soligor 200mm lens, a 2x converter and a 3-piece set of macro rings for absolute close-up work. I used the last-named rings recently on a roll of 35mm TX400 b&w negative film - bracketing from high to low exposure - and it'll be interesting to see the results of that. I've decided to get a Canon lens as well as the body - to make full use of all the digital facilities when I don't want to use the Takumar lens.

 

As it happens, I'm lucky to have a high quality photographic processing (analog & digital) shop not too far from me. I strolled in to ask if he still did b&w developing and printing. The answer, amazingly to me, was: "More than ever - it's shot up in the last two to three years!" I was surprised and pleased at the same time. A bit like back-to-vinyl.

 

Anyway, more later...

Willfly-  Magic Lantern  is availible for the 70D    

[chadders1966]

I've been reading this with interest, I'm trying to do what I can to improve my own watch photos, but without having to spend on cameras or lenses. I have two cameras, both bought 2nd hand and both of which are great for my general use with non changeable lenses Fuji X100 and Fuji HS20ESR. They both have macro but the HS20 is much better. Unfortunately the lens is so big it leaves a shadow even with a ring light.

What I've taken to doing is using a copy stand (not as stable a a tripod, but fine if you set your focus and use a remote button) and using some of the zoom on the camera instead. This means I can work under the camera if I want, lean back and take photos. However, even with manual focus, I don't seem to be able to zoom and focus enough to get more detail than the full watch - I can't focus in on small parts as with macro. I don't know whether that's down to me not knowing how to use my camera (;)) or something that can't be done.

Stephen

[WillFly]

My solution to this problem will be to get a tripod with a ball or triple-action head mount. However, the head mount will not go on the tripod, but on this little gizmo:

 

The repro arm fits on top of the tripod head, and the ball mount on one end of the repro arm. The camera attaches to the ball mount and faces donwards. The tripod stands against a table on which the watch movement sits facing up as usual. The end of the repro arm - with camera - is positioned over the table as it juts out from the tripod. Focus - and ZAP: picture.

 

Anyway, that's the theory - we'll see what the actuality look like...