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Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough - A Beginners Quartz Service

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Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough

 

I thought I'd post a walkthrough on a simple quartz movement for people who are just starting out in watch repairing.

 

post-246-0-94727300-1434046537_thumb.jpg

 

The Ronda 715 is an excellent movement to begin with, as it's simple in design; but has all the components needed to practice your skills on.

Even better is that it only cost around $10 to buy this movement brand new online.  So if you break it or loose a part, you learn from the experience, and just buy another one :)  Perfect!!

 

The Ronda 715 is found in many of the "Fashion" brand watches, like Guess, JAG, Loyal, etc...

 

As this is a walkthrough for novices there will be arrows to every part as we disassemble this movement.

I also recommend you download the Tech Spec PDF and get familiar with how to read them.

Here's the link to down the PDF

559_Ronda702,703,705,708,712,713,715.pdf

 

Remember to have fun!!  :lol:  If you start to get frustrated, just have a break and come back to it later.

Patience and perseverance will get you there, and once the skills are mastered it's very rewarding.

 

Ok, lets begin

 

Firstly, you identify this particular caliber of movement by the number stamped into the plastic surround.

As you can see this one is stamped "715"

 

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The tools you will need for this service are as follows:

  • Bergeon 4040 Movement Holder
  • An Eye Loupe, or some type of optics 3x or better
  • Pegwood
  • 0.8mm Screwdriver
  • 1.2mm Screwdriver
  • Tweezers
  • Hand Lifters
  • A Hand Setting Tool
  • A Parts Tray with cover
  • And a piece of Rodico

 

post-246-0-62084700-1434049073_thumb.jpg

post-246-0-58435600-1434053023_thumb.jpg

 

Since I am using a movement purchased from CusionsUK, I unfortunately don't have Hands or a Dial to remove.

If you are servicing a movement presently in a watch, I suggest you watch one of Mark's video's to see how you remove Hands and the Dial.

Mark's Videos are a fantastic resource to show you proper technics, and I highly recommend viewing them.

They can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/user/jewldood/videos

 

Once the Hands and Dial are removed, we then need to remove the battery, if one is installed, before we begin disassembly.

On this movement it is done by gently pulling the Keeper Arm back away from the battery.

Be careful when doing this so that you don't slip and damage the Coil.

 

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Then turn the movement over and remove the 4 screws, using a 0.8mm Screwdriver, that hold down the Date Indicator Guard, and remove it.

 

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Here is a reference photo of the Date Indicator Guard and screws.

 

post-246-0-46310500-1434046547_thumb.jpg

 

Next, hold down the Jumper Spring with Pegwood to stop it pinging away, and remove it with your tweezers.

Then remove the Date Jumper and Date Indictor Ring.

 

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Next remove the Indictor Driving Wheel

 

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Then the Date Indicator Plate

 

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Followed by the Hour Wheel.

 

post-246-0-85976700-1434046556_thumb.jpg

 

Next remove the Setting Wheel

 

post-246-0-27571200-1434046559_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Minute Wheel

 

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Remove the Secondary Yoke

 

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This completes all the components on the dial side of this movement.

Turn the movement over in the holder.

 

post-246-0-40301600-1434046577_thumb.jpg

 

Unscrew the 3 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Module Cover Plate, and remove it.

NOTE: One of the screw is unique and larger than the others, remember it's location.

 

post-246-0-17538300-1434046580_thumb.jpg

 

Here is a reference photo of the Module Cover Plate and the 3 screws.

 

post-246-0-51675400-1434046581_thumb.jpg

 

Next remove the single screw that holds the Circuit and the Coil.

Then remove the Circuit VERY carefully and store it somewhere very safe.

 

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Here is a reference photo of the Circuit and screw.

 

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Next remove the Coil by lifting it with the end with no circuit tracks on it, as shown below.

 

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Now unscrew the 2 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Train Bridge and lift it off gently.

 

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Here is a reference photo of the Train Bridge and screws.

 

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Next remove the wheels of the train carefully, then the Rotor and Stator.

 

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From left to right there names are: Third Wheel, Second Wheel, and Intermediate Wheel.

 

post-246-0-41565200-1434046613_thumb.jpg

 

And here are the Rotor and Stator.

 

post-246-0-28119800-1434053094_thumb.jpg

 

Unscrew the single screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Centre Bridge and remove it.

The Cannon Pinion should be on the centre post of the bridge and come away with it.

NOTE: This screw is also unique with a thicker head, remember it's location.

 

post-246-0-90456600-1434046615_thumb.jpg

 

Here is a reference photo of the Centre Bridge, Cannon Pinion and screw.

 

post-246-0-08934900-1434046618_thumb.jpg

 

Next remove the screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Plastic Setting Lever Cover, and remove it.

 

post-246-0-57905600-1434046620_thumb.jpg

 

Here is a reference photo of the Setting Lever Cover and screw.

 

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Then lift out the Setting Lever and Primary Yoke.

 

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Lastly, pull out the Stem and the Sliding Pinion should fall to your work mat.

 

post-246-0-61810600-1434046626_thumb.jpg

 

You have now completely disassembled the movement ... WELL DONE!! :)

 

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The black plastic outer ring can not be removed, it is riveted to the Main Plate

 

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All the parts can be put in the cleaning machine or Ultrasonic ... EXPECT THE FOLLOWING PARTS!

  • Battery
  • Circuit
  • Coil
  • Rotor

 

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I hope this was a fun movement to begin your journey into watch repairing, and that it builds your confidence to advance further.

 

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Assembly will be posted soon...stay tuned!

 

 

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Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough

Part 2

 

Assembly

 

The 2 lubricants you'll need to service this movement are Moebius Quartz Oil and 9501.

 

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For an oiler I would recommend the "Blue" size oiler for this service.

 

post-246-0-12309500-1434188084_thumb.jpg

 

I haven't added all of the oiling points as I didn't want to clutter up the images and make it confusing.

Please study the Tech PDF for all the oiling points, and replace their oil recommendations as follows:

 

post-246-0-43333200-1434191500.jpg

 

If you don't have an Ultrasonic Cleaner, or a Watch Part Cleaning Machine, you can simply use Shellite (White Spirits) or Lighter Fluid to clean the parts.

 

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To clean the Rotor use a piece of Rodico.

 

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To begin the assembly, place 9501 on the Stem as shown below.

 

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Hold the Sliding Pinion in place and insert the Stem.

Then place some Quartz Oil in the yoke slot of the Sliding Pinion.

 

post-246-0-98549800-1434185662_thumb.jpg

 

Next we need to install the Setting Lever and Primary Yoke.

Install the Setting Lever and then place the Yoke on top of it, so the arm of the Setting Lever fits into the slot in the Yoke as shown below.

 

post-246-0-22196600-1434185666_thumb.jpg

 

Press down the Yoke and turn the Setting Lever clockwise to slide on top of it.

Make sure the Setting Lever is seated into the slot on the Stem.

 

post-246-0-68386300-1434185669_thumb.jpg

 

Replace the Plastic Setting Lever Cover, and secure using a 1.2mm Screwdriver.

 

post-246-0-52582100-1434185671_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Battery Contact.

 

post-246-0-89894900-1434185674_thumb.jpg

 

Place some Quartz Oil on the tube of the Cannon Pinion where indicated.

 

post-246-0-21148100-1434185677_thumb.jpg

 

Then place some Quartz Oil on the post of the Centre Bridge where indicated.

 

post-246-0-89526500-1434185686_thumb.jpg

 

Then install the Cannon Pinion on the post of the Centre Bridge.

 

post-246-0-83437300-1434185689_thumb.jpg

 

Place the Centre Bridge on the Main Plate, and secure the single screw using a 1.2mm Screwdriver.

Note this screw is unique, with a thick head.

 

post-246-0-61385400-1434185693_thumb.jpg

post-246-0-22572400-1434185697_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Stator.

 

post-246-0-28165200-1434185699_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Rotor

 

post-246-0-36693000-1434185702_thumb.jpg

 

The train is the next to be installed.

We start with the Third Wheel.

Notice it has the longer gear on the pivot.

 

post-246-0-81218600-1434185704_thumb.jpg

 

Install it on the Centre Bridge.

 

post-246-0-57591400-1434185708_thumb.jpg

 

Next is the Intermediate Wheel, with the shorter gear on the pivot.

 

post-246-0-46146200-1434185710_thumb.jpg

 

Install it on the Centre Bridge.

 

post-246-0-05769600-1434185713_thumb.jpg

 

Next is the Second Wheel, which needs a small application of Quartz Oil where indicated.

 

post-246-0-56561300-1434185726_thumb.jpg

 

Install it on the Centre Bridge.

 

post-246-0-44334300-1434185730_thumb.jpg

 

Then carefully install the Train Bridge and with your oiler gently adjust the wheels until the pivots locate into the holes on the bridge.

Then tighten down the 2 screws with a 1.2mm Screwdriver

 

post-246-0-80206400-1434185733_thumb.jpg

 

Next place the Coil back onto the movement, being careful only to hold it on the end with no circuit tracks on it.

 

post-246-0-69144800-1434185735_thumb.jpg

 

Then install the Circuit; but DO NOT replace the screws.

 

post-246-0-44911300-1434185739_thumb.jpg

 

Place the Module Cover Plate over the Circuit.

 

post-246-0-59271200-1434188506_thumb.jpg

 

Then select the 4 screws to secure all these parts down.

Note the longer threaded screw for the Coil, and the larger headed screw for the Battery Keeper.

 

post-246-0-01995200-1434185750_thumb.jpg

 

Place all the screws in place and screw them down half way with a 1.2mm Screwdriver.

 

post-246-0-88988000-1434185752_thumb.jpg

 

Once the screws are down half way, go back around the tighten them down.

The reason we do this is to align all the parts with the Circuit, and so that no strain is placed on it.

It also makes sure the connections between the Coil and Circuit Board are aligned properly.

 

post-246-0-78233000-1434185756_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Battery Insulation.

 

post-246-0-18117700-1434185759_thumb.jpg

 

Turn the movement over to the dial side.

 

post-246-0-36292800-1434185775_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Minute Wheel.

 

post-246-0-88952600-1434185779_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Setting Wheel.

 

post-246-0-01370700-1434185782_thumb.jpg

 

Followed by the Hour Wheel.

 

post-246-0-51413700-1434185785_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Indictor Driving Wheel, and make sure it's replace in the correct orientation.

 

post-246-0-07605600-1434185788_thumb.jpg

 

Replace the Secondary Yoke

 

post-246-0-83330800-1434185790_thumb.jpg

 

Replace the Date Indicator Plate

 

post-246-0-48197000-1434185794_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Date Jumper and Date Indictor Ring.

 

post-246-0-30702600-1434185796_thumb.jpg

 

...............................................................................

Now there are 2 ways to install the Jumper Spring.

One way for the Novice and another way for the more advanced.

Once you get confident with your tweezer skills I'd recommend to start practicing the advance method, as many movements will not offer the easier way to install springs.

 

Method 1 (Novice)

Install the Date Indicator Guard and screw down the 4 screw with a 0.8mm Screwdriver.

 

post-246-0-10029300-1434185798_thumb.jpg

 

Then slide the longer leg of the Jumper Spring into the inspection hole.

 

post-246-0-92986100-1434185802_thumb.jpg

 

Then grab the shorter leg of the spring and lever it into the inspection hole.

 

post-246-0-78902000-1434185815_thumb.jpg

 

Method 2 (Advanced)

Place the Jumper spring into it's position, and use a piece of pegwood to secure the loop of the spring to stop it from pinging away.

Then with your tweezers, grab the long leg of the spring and lever it across until its positioned behind the Date Jumper.

 

post-246-0-79164300-1434185818_thumb.jpg

post-246-0-15261000-1434185822_thumb.jpg

 

Then replace the Date Indicator Guard and screw down the 4 screw with a 0.8mm Screwdriver.

 

post-246-0-10029300-1434185798_thumb.jpg

 

...............................................................................

 

Install the battery, hooking it under the 2 claws, and then lever the Battery Keeper back and push the Battery down into position.

 

post-246-0-54436800-1434185824_thumb.jpg

post-246-0-70019800-1434185827_thumb.jpg

 

The service is now complete.

If this was the first time you've serviced a movement, WELL DONE!  I hope this has been fun and increased your confidence.

 

post-246-0-25933800-1434185829_thumb.jpg

 

I would now repeat servicing this movement over and over until you can do it without referring to this walkthrough.

Also name every part as you remove and replace it. 

This is the road to increasing your practical skills and terminology.

 

 

 

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Nice one and thanks for making the effort to document the process.

.I've an old Ronda which I swapped out last year which will be my first attempt at a quartz strip, clean and re-assembly after reading this post.

Thanks.

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.I've an old Ronda which I swapped out last year which will be my first attempt at a quartz strip, clean and re-assembly after reading this post.

Thanks.

 

Fantastic Nad!! 

This is why I make these walkthrough, and to see posts like yours makes it all worthwhile.

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Just finished my first strip, clean and re-assemble of a quartz movement following Lawson’s excellent notes. I’m pretty much a novice on a learning curve having only worked on a handful 50/60’s mechanical gents and ladies watches.

 

My example was a 7 jewel Ronda which I’d swapped out a mates watch a while ago as a non runner. Not exactly the same as the one in Lawson’s notes but near enough to make no difference.

 

For me the most difficult part was lining up the wheel pivots, took around an hour listening to Glastonbury on the radio. Magnetic attraction from the Rotor causing me a few issues.

 

End result, well all corrosion removed and now nice and clean with no broken or missing parts. Still not running with a fresh battery however but that gives me the opportunity re-do, and this time try and fault find a non running Quartz movement.

 

Thanks again Lawson, you’re an inspiration.

 

NAD

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I have a Ronda 753 I've been trying to fix for a couple of weeks.  I cannot get the rotor to behave while putting on the train bridge.  I've tried putting small rotor magnets beneath the jewel and over the train pivot in various combinations.  The problem is that everything is so close together and the train bridge is magnetic.  Also, the rotor magnet is a strong little bugger.  Just can't do it.  So in assembly I'd be particularly interested in how you get the train bridge back on for the 715.  It may provide some tips for putting it on my 753.

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Found it a little tricky as well.

Had to partially insert the screws to hold the Stator in place to counteract the magnetic attraction.

When encouraging the wheel pivots into the bridge jewels, a thinned down plastic floss stick came in handy to keep the rotor in it's lower jewel.

Once wheel bridge in place, I then removed the screws I'd use to hold the Stator in place. Took me a while but worked for me.

NAD

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Thanks nad!  Sounds like a good idea.  How did you use the floss stick to keep the rotor in its lower position?  It just occurred to me that I could maybe use that or a piece of pegwood and make a little v-cut with which to hold the rotor and keep if from squirming around while I get the pivots for the other gears in place--which I can get into place with no problem.  Thanks.

 

Oh!, I forgot to mention this is a great writeup.

 

Edited by DouglasSkinner

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After putting the Rotor and wheels in position, the bridge was replaced. It's retaining screws where put in and screwed down a little to hold in place but too much to damage the pivots.

Pegwood to put a little pressure on the bridge and the floss stick to work the wheels and Rotor into place. In my innocence I normally use a clean oiler here but the magnetic attraction of the Rotor on it was causing me a problem.

Not sure if this is best practice but I got the wheels into their jewels first and then worked the Rotor into it's upper jewel.

Hope this is of some use to you.

NAD

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Hey Douglas

 

The most import advise I can offer is taking time to position the rotor and wheels.

If you look at the picture of rotor and wheels that I took, they are seated very carefully to be as aligned as possible before fitting the bridge.

 

post-246-0-49250100-1438092664_thumb.jpg

 

Once you've got the rotor and wheels positioned as pictured, carefully place the bridge on top, and hold it down gently on top with a piece of pegwood.  Then with a fine pair of brass tweezers (#4 or #5) or an oiler, gently "worry" the wheels and rotor into their jewels whilst holding the bridge down with the pegwood. 

"Worrying" means moving them slightly back and forth

 

Also if your bridge has become magnetized, you will have to de-magnetize it

A de-magnetizer is an essential piece of kit, and are very cheap on ebay ... I purchased mine for about $20.00.  Never put parts into a cleaner without de-magnetizing all the parts.

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Hi,

 

Thanks for the help to both Lawson and nad.  I have a demagnetizer and will try it.  Also I will use a floss pick to jiggle the wheels into their pivots.  The Ronda 753 has 1 jewel at the base of the rotor.  The lack of jewels makes it hard to get the wheels into their pivots.  Will keep trying though.

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New member here from NJ, usa. Nice write-up and super pictures. This takes alot of time. I just relaced a coil I dug up from a battery change...learned my lesson and this got me sparked on horology. A local watch repair told me my nice basecamp swiss army watch was beyond repair....lol.

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Again, thank you very much Lawson for this write up and excellent pictures. This was my second watch to strip, clean & rebuild after the mechanical ETA2540. The Ronda 715 movement was housed in a Traser Commander P6506 watch.

As a beginner I was presented with a problem and an "advanced-level" challenge.

While stripping the watch I'm using a 12 grid transparent box, each grid with its own lid and parts stored per "category". After rebuilding the "movement-side" and installing the Module Cover Plate, I was left with one small part..........

It was stored in the box compartment together with the Module Cover Plate and the 3 screws, so it had to be an "at the end" item. I checked all Lawson pictures carefully, but no. I checked the Ronda 715 exploded view, not there! Tossing the item around and searched for a possible fit, I figured it had to be an addition battery retainer. After installing it fitted well and it retains the battery. I guess it must be an item which was installed by Traser, or upon their request?

I can't get the pictures in between the text (maybe somebody can explain?), but if they are all presented as an attachment at the end of the text; picture 1) is the 12-grid box I'm using, Picture 2) shows the battery compartment without the retainer bracket, picture 3) shows with the retainer bracket installed and picture 4) the "culprit", the bracket itself. Sorry for the quality of the pictures & color-balance......also my first time micro.

 

The "advanced-level" challenge was placing the jumper-spring. Two options were given: the Novice and another way for the more advanced.

Not minding a challenge, I went for the more "advanced" way. For more than an hour I have been fiddling with this little spring. I found the spring, due its rectangular form, very eager to jump and a few time it was nearly gone. I also thought that if you manage to get the spring in place, with all surrounding components, the Date Indicator plate and the Date jumper still laying "loose", the whole "system" became very unstable. A little vibration to the work-top, or when placing the  Date Indicator Guard, and an uncontrolled chain of events could be triggered, possibly sending the tiny spring into infinity.

Maybe the "inspection hole" was designed with a dual purpose in mind, as it made the spring installment within minutes and very safe. From my beginners perspective, unless you have a few springs to spare, I would definite go for the Novice option.

 

Another one down ;-)

 

Best regards: Roland.

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post-1663-0-80414100-1453714380_thumb.jp

Edited by Endeavor

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HI,

I want to replace the movement of my watch (Esprit 102952). I didn't know "Ronda" movements since this is not mh job anyway. But I am curious, why the heck this famous quality brand name  ceased about 3 years of the purchase date while a cheap chinese model keeps working for years....

 

Anyway, I opened the watch and the only sign i found is "Ronda One 1 Jewel, Swiss Paris". Nothing more, not even in the plastic of the watch. How to decide what model is extacly ? It has only two hands. I attach you a photo.

 

 

IMG_1812.JPG

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Hi Sdancer, and welcome to the forum :)

I hear what you say a lot where I work, and it's hard to be brutally honest to a client who's spent sometimes over $1000 dollars on this type of watch, without getting them very upset.  But on this forum, and on all my threads I want to help and inform people who have taken the time to visit Watch Repair Talk.  With that being said, here's the response to your question.

These type of watches are classed as "Fashion" watches.  They are commissioned by different brand names: yours being Esprit, and they are pumped out of factories in China with only cosmetic input from the brands they represent.  The true production cost of these watches are around $15-20 per unit ... no I am not joking.

The movement in your watch is a Ronda 762 (2 hand), which cost about $4-11 dollars replacement cost, depending where you source the replacement movement.  So unfortunately your assumption that this is a " famous quality brand" is not factual when it comes to watches they make.  Personally I despise these avarice companies that play upon people's lack of horological knowledge, and the simple fact that you can't see the cheap movement inside, to make profits margins in the THOUSANDS of percent.

These cheap Ronda movements are still very accurate, do their job keeping time, and are exceptional value for money; but they are built to a price point, not to a quality point.  Some run for over a decade without any problem, whilst other fail in months ... it's a little hit and miss with a complete movement that costs less than a cup of coffee.

The good news is that they are very easily replaced :) Simply buy a new movement off of ebay, or someone like CousinsUK.  You need to measure the Hour Wheel Height of the movement (as seen below), or it may have a large number stamped on the back which is the height number, ranging from (1) 0.95mm to (5) 3.15mm.  Make sure you get the correct one or it won't fit inside your case.

Height.jpg

Once you have the movement, remove the watch hands, gently lever the old movement off the dial (it is only held on with fiction fit posts) install the new movement and replace the hands!  Even if you have to buy some hand lifters, it will only cost you around $25 to put a brand new movement in your watch.

I hope this has helped, and you are now much better informed when next you purchase a watch .... also we are always here to offer advise and help even when it comes to choosing your next watch :)

 

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Thank you Lawson,

I really like the people that they know their job. Yes you are correct. The model is 762 as I finally found a tiny number (I need to buy a descent magnifier :biggrin: ) in the corner of the base. You are professional and you know the marketing tricks in your subject, but its really pitty to find out that cheap chinese models are sold in the US or EU markets with very high prices.

That's global economy, and its not good in my opinion.

I really enjoyed your answer. Keep the good working and best regards from Greece.

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      For those interested I have done a walk-through for the assembly as the strip-down is just the reverse basically.
       
      After a good clean of all the parts in lighter fuel (I'm only a hobbyist) and a strip and relube of the mainspring, the assembly followed
       
      First the gear train, block for stem gears and intermediate wheel were assembled and lubed

       
      Next the barrel was installed (sorry for quality of pic)

       
      Then the train wheel bridge/plate was added and checked for free running from barrel to escape wheel, and lubed

       
      The keyless works are added and lubed, note the yoke also acts as a spring against the setting lever and action checked

       
      The winding wheels and the unusual click spring are added and lubed and action checked.

       
      I forgot to take pic of this next stage but the assembly can be seen in the dial fitting below.
       
      The pin-lever was added and checked for kick  The pins and escape wheel where epilame treated and oiled with M941, and the fork was wiped with M941 on a wedged end of pegwood, this is because they are all metal to metal contacts. Even the balance table jewel is metal !! 
       
      The balance was added, lubed and checked for function. There are no balance pivot jewels (in fact there are no jewels at all !!!) just holes in the main plate and balance cock.  The holes lie under the round plate on the mainplate and the regulator on the balance cock.  These were removed/lifted to lube with M9010, the cock plate being a bit tricky/delicate.
       
      The canon pinion was added and lubed.  This is not a friction fit but is driven by the intermediate wheel.

       
      The minute wheel and dial washer are added and lubed

       
      The dial has split posts which are just spread open (what technology !!) so this was fitted very carefully so as to avoid damaging the balance or lever which are very close by as shown in pics


       
      Stuck in on my timegrapher which showed a very noisy trace (not surprisingly) but managed to get it reasonably regulated despite iffy beat error and rates in some positions.  I aimed at a reasonable rate when worn and it actually keeps fairly good time within 1 minute a day on average.
       
       
      The hands are fitted, and the movement put into the case-back and case-top/bracelet are refitted.
       
      AND NOW I CAN REVEAL THE IDENTITY OF THIS HIGH END WATCH
       


       
      Yes its a really awful  1970's fake !!!! 
      So no family fortune here then !!
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • By joelcarvajal
      Good day, guys!  This is my little way of giving back to this wonderful community.
       
      We usually receive for repair a watch handed down by a father to his son.  In this case, its a watch given by the son to his father - a Seiko 5 from the early 1990s.
       
      The watch has seen better days, with its hardilex crystal beaten and the watch not moving at all regardless of the amount of shaking you give it.
       

       
      The hands are corroded and the dial mounted on the movement using contact cement.
       

       
      I'll skip the disassembly and show you how the Seiko 7009 movement works.  The Seiko 7009 technical guide is easy to find on the net though.
       
      First to be mounted is the center wheel that drives the cannon pinion.  After which I install the escape wheel and the center wheel bridge.
       

       
      The third wheel and fourth wheel is installed next.  Note that the fourth wheel drives the second hand directly.  Then the click comes next.
       
      Prior to installing the unified barrel and train-wheel bridge, you have to install the pawl lever and first reduction wheel assembly.  The assembly is held in place by the first reduction wheel holder.  Take note of the orientation of the pawl lever.
       

       
      I find it difficult to install the barrel and train wheel bridge while ensuring that the click spring doesn't get in the way.
       

       
      <end of part 1>
       
       
    • By Lawson
      ETA 251.626 Service Walkthrough
       
      The 251.626 is often found in mid to high-end quartz chronographs on the market today.
      ETA 251.262.pdf
       

       
      It is a fairly complex quartz movement that has 5 motors, 2 with Red Coils, and 3 with Green Coils.
       

       
      To begin the service we start by removing the 3 Indicator Maintaining Small Plates, and Date Indicator.
      A 1.4mm screwdriver is all the is needed for every screw on the movement.
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the 3 screws for the Indicator Maintaining Small Plates.
       

       
      There are no more components to remove from the dial side of the movement.
       

       
      Once the movement is turned over, remove the 2 screws that hold the Magnetic Screen.
      Once the Magnetic Screen is removed all the coils are very exposed, so work around these coils with great care.
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the 2 screws for the Magnetic Screen.
       

       
      Next unscrew the 6 screws holding the Additional Printed Circuit and gently lift it off the movement.
      Store the Additional Printed Circuit away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the 6 screws for the Additional Printed Circuit.
       

       
      Next we tackle the 2 trains with the red coils.
      Right Side - Minute Counter
      Left Side - Hour Counter
       

       
      The right and left trains contain different size wheels and should be kept separate for ease of assembly.
      We shall start with the right side.
      Remove the Minute Counter Bridge
       

       
      Next remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
       

       
      Next remove the Coil and Stator.
      Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the components and their corosponding screws.
      Note the 4 spokes on the Minute Counting Wheel.
       

       
      Remove the Hour Counter Bridge.
       

       
      Remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
       

       
      Remove the Coil and Stator.
      Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
       

       

      Here's a reference photo of the components.
      Note the 3 spokes on the Hour Counting Wheel.
       


       
      Store these 2 trains in separate sections in your parts tray, and when cleaning store them in sparate parts containers.
       

       
      Next remove the Chronograph Bridge
       

       
      Now remove the Chronograph Wheel
       

       
      Unscrew the Green Coils and remove them.
      Store the Coils away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the components and their corresponding screws.
       

       
      Remove the Train Wheel Bridge.
       

       
      Remove the Wheels of the Train.
       

       
      This is quite a complex train of wheels.
      So to assist you I've cleaned up the rather cluttered schematic supplied by ETA and colour coded each wheel and it's location on the Main Plate.
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the top of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
       

       
      And also the underneath of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
       

       
      Remove the Rotors and Stators.
       

       
      Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the Upper Plate and remove it.
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the Upper Plate, Connector, and the corosponding screws.
       

       
      This now exposes the Electronic Module.
       

       
      Remove the Stop Lever/Switch
       

       
      Remove the Cannon Pinion with Driver.
       

       
      Then remove the Electronic Module.
       

       
      Pull out the Stem and Sliding Pinion.
      Now store the Electronic Module away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
       

       
      Remove the Minute Wheel, the Hour Wheel, and Contact Intermediate Wheel.
       

       
      Before we can remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel, we need to pull back the Date Jumper.
      Gently lift the tab (Yellow Arrow) until it's at plate level and pull it backwards.
      This will pull the arm of the Date Jumper back and allow you to remove the wheel.
       


       
      Here's a reference photo of the wheels.
       

       
      Lastly we need to remove the keyless work.
      Unscrew the Setting Lever Spring and then remove the Setting Lever, Yoke, Driving Wheel, Internediate Setting Wheel No.1, and the Setting Wheel
       

       
      Here's a reference photo of the Keyless Work.
       

       
      The movement is now completely disassembled.
       

       
      I hope you've enjoyed this disassembly walkthrough and found it's given you the information and confidence to tackle this tricky but rewarding quartz movement.
      I will post the assembly procedures tomorrow, Lord willing :)
       

    • By Lawson
      ETA 7750 Service Walkthrough
       
       
      The 7750 was first available in 1974, having been one of the first movements to be designed with the aid of a computer.  It's hard to believe that the 7750 is still the industry standard movement for chronographs considering it's history.
       
      It was developed over 40 years ago by Valjoux, who was then a legendary movement maker that was part of the giant ASUAG conglomerate.  But by the end of 1975 production was stopped due to the onslaught of the Quartz Era, and the 7750, along with many other mechanical calibers, was abandoned.  Industry demand for this movement was so low that the stock produced in that 1 year manufacturing lasted until 1982!  Such was the devastation of cheap Japanese produced quartz watches to Swiss manufactures.
       
      History may have forgotten the 7750 except for the local management at Zenith who ignored the orders by Valjoux to destroy the dies and equipment used to manufacture the 7750, instead hiding the equipment away from corporate eyes.
       
      You can find many more fascinating facts about this caliber online, and it's well worth the read.
       
      ...................................................
       
      This walkthrough will be very detailed, and I hope this will give people the courage to tackle this movement.  I've serviced quite a few calibers, and this is one of the most beautiful, with a very logical layout. 
       
      ETA7750 Tech.PDF
       
      If you have built your skills with basic movements, and become proficient in servicing them, I would highly recommend this movement to be your first chronograph to tackle.
       

       
      Lets begin.
       
      DEMAGNETIZE THE MOVEMENT BEFORE DISASSEMBLY.
       
      Remove the Day Indicator and store it in a safe place where it won't be damaged.
       

       
      Unscrew (0.8 Driver) the Jumper Maintaining Plate and remove it.
       


       
      Do the same for the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate
       


       
      Carefully remove the Jumpers Spring, holding it with a piece of pegwood so it doesn't ping away.
       

       
      Next remove the jumpers for the day and date.
       


       
      The jumpers differ from one another, so here is a reference photo so you can see the difference.
       

       
      Remove the Date Indicator and place it in a safe place where it won't be damaged.
       

       
      The last piece to remove on the Date Platform is the Double Corrector
       

       
      Now unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Date Platform and gentle pry it from the movement.
       


       
      Be careful when removing this plate, as there is a fine spring pressed into the plate that can be easily damaged.
       


       
      Here is a reference photo of the screws that hold the Date Platform.
       

       
      Remove the Hour Hammer Spring, once again using the pegwood to hold the spring while removing the tension.
       

       
      Here is a reference photo of the correct orientation of the spring.
       

       
      Remove the Hour Counter Lock.
       

       
      Remove the Hour Hammer Operating Lever.
       

       
      Next is the Hour Hammer, be careful when removing this item so as not to damage the Hour-Counting Wheel.
       

       
      Now remove the Hour-Counting Wheel.
       

       
      Remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel
       

       
      Remove the Day Star Driving Wheel
       

       
      Then remove the Intermediate Calendar Driving Wheel
       

       
      Remove the Hour Wheel
       

       
      Then the Minute Wheel
       

       
      Remove the Cannon Pinion, which does not require a puller.
       

       
      The last component to be removed on this side of the Main Plate is the Driver Cannon Pinion.
       

       
      To lift the Driver Cannon Pinion I used what Mark used, a set of hand lifter from Horotec (MSA05.007); but
      you can also use a Presto Tool (30636-1) which will also work well.
       

       
      The dial side of the movement is now complete disassembled.
      Flip the movement over and unscrew (1.5 Driver) the Oscillating Weight.
       


       
      To remove the Hammer Spring lift it up gently over the automatic work and move it inwards.
      This will move the tail of the spring in a clockwise motion to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring.
       

       
      Slide out the Clutch Spring.
       

       
      Here is a reference photo of this spring, and it's orientation.
       

       
      Remove the screws (1.4 Driver) for the Automatic Device Bridge, and gently pry it loose.
       


       
      Here is a reference photo of these screws for the bridge.
       

       
      Once the Automatic Bridge has been removed, the two wheels for the automatic work are able to be removed.
      Below is a reference photo of how the sit inside the bridge.
       

       
      We now begin to disassemble the chronograph section of this movement.
      Begin with removing the Hammer, 2 Functions.
       

       
      Next remove the Clutch 60s, 2 Functions.
       

       
      Then remove the Minute-counting Wheel, 30min.
       

       
      Remove the Chronograph Wheel 60s, 30min.
       

       
      Gently lift out the Oscillating Pinion, 60s.
       

       
      Here is a reference photo of the orientation of this pinion.
       

       
      Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Chronograph Bridge and gently pry it off the Train Wheel Bridge.
       


       
      Remove the Ratchet Driving Wheel.
       

       
      Remove the Chronograph Wheel Fiction.
       

       
      Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Operating Lever, 2 Functions.
       


       
      Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Lock, 2 Functions.
       


       
      Next remove the Minute-counter Driving Wheel, 30min.
       

       
      Slide out the Operating Lever Spring, 2 Functions.
       

       
      This spring can be fitting in both directions; but only 1 way is correct.
      Here is a reference photo of it's correct orientation.
       

       
      Remove the Switch.
       

       
      Here I digress from the order the SwissLab document illustrates the order of removal.
      They show to remove the Chronograph Cam before removing the Hammer Cam Jumper.
      This in my opinion is not the best way, as all the force from the jumper is pressing on the cam whilst your trying to remove it, and could lead to damage.
      Instead I move the Chronograph Cam until it reaches the notch as shown in the photo below.
       

       
      Then lift the Hammer Cam Jumper up to the top of the Chronograph Cam, which will release it's tension.
      Then, just as you removed the previous hammer, rotate the jumper to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring.
       

       
      Now you can unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Chronograph Cam safely without tension on it.
       


       
      RELEASE THE MAINSPRING TENSION
       

       
      Once the tension has been released, unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Balance Cock.
       


       
      Then unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Pallet Bridge and remove the bridge and Pallets.
       



       
      Unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Ratchet Wheel.
       


       
      Then remove the Crown Wheel.
       



       
      Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Train Wheel Bridge and gently pry it off the Main Plate.
       


       
      Note that one of the screws is under the Operating Lever.  This needs to be moved out of the way to access this screw.
       

       
      The last level of this movement contains the train.
      Here is a reference photo of the wheel locations.
       

       
      Remove the Stop Lever.
       

       
      Remove the Great Wheel.
       

       
      Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel.
       

       
      Remove the Third Wheel.
       

       
      Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel.
       

       
      Remove the Second Wheel.
       

       
      Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel.
      Note this has the long lower pivot.
       

       
      Remove the Escape Wheel.
       

       
      Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel.
       

       
      Then remove the Barrel.
       

       
      This completes the removal of the train.
      Flip the movement over so we can complete the disassembly by removing the keyless work.
       

       
      Firstly, release the tension from the Setting Lever Jumper.
       

       
      Then unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Setting Lever Jumper.
       


       
      These are unique screws with pointed ends, and below is a reference photo of them.
       

       
      This will also remove the Intermediate Setting Wheel.
       

       
      Next remove the Setting Wheel
       

       
      Then remove the Yoke.
       

       
      Remove the Setting Lever.
       

       
      Remove the Rocking Bar.
       

       
      Now pull out the Stem.
       

       
      Once the Stem is removed the Winding and Sliding Pinion should fall out of the movement onto your work mat.
       

       
      Disassembly of the 7750 is now complete
       

       
      If you've come this far, congratulation on completing the disassembly.
      Make sure you pegwood all the jewels and reinstall the Balance back onto the movement for cleaning.
       

       
      Assembly of the movement will be posted as soon as I complete the write-up.
       
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    • are we talking about round wylers?  the special crystols are hard to find. there were several colors.     vin
    • I'm going to have to do something. One decent desk lamp and bulbs high up in the ceiling are not enough for me.
    • You are most welcome.
    • Thats  a poser,  what I had fitted to the bench at on time was a four in line which used halogen bulbs the same thing uses LEDs now and fitting that up with some 2by1 and made colapsible so that it folds up. the multiple light array should go some way to removing the shadows as the lights strike at different angles,  if it has a decent base a G clamp will fix it to the table/bench, food for  thought.
    • Yes, something like that might do the job. In many ways similar to the goose neck lamp I’m looking at. If only I knew what I need. The light in the picture I posted is very good (not the small one), it’s the fact that it is slightly in front of me hence the shadows. I can move it right above what I’m working on, but again, there will be shadows elsewhere because my hand and head will get in the way. I’m starting to think that a floor lamp next or close to me will be the best solution, casting the light from opposite direction. A head torch would be perfect but I don’t want to sit there with it on for hours. When I look at Mark’s oiling videos (jewels) it’s so clear, yes it’s a lot more magnified than my 12x loupe but there are no dark areas.
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