ETA Calibre 2772 Service Walkthrough Pictures – Disassembly
(Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)
ETA Calibre 2772 Service Walkthrough Pictures – Assembly
(Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)
For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part along with any screws that held it in place.
For the assembly sequence to make sense it is important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. If needed, the following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled to the movement.
Note that this is not a maintenance servicing tutorial. To be able to service a watch movement some basic tools are required as well as some basic skills. It’s not difficult but it requires a bit of practice and perseverance. I’ve used a lot of sources on the internet to learn about servicing and repairing but watchrepairlessons have so far not only been the best source but also the most affordable source I’ve come across. I am a patron of watchrepairlessons but I’m in no way affiliated with it.
Prior to servicing this calibre 2772, I’ve serviced an ETA calibre 2472 and two ETA calibre 2824-2s and the kinship between these movement is obvious. The 2472 is from the mid-60s, the 2772 is from the mid-70s, and the 2824-2 is from the early 80s. They all have the same type of distinguishing train. The keyless works of the 2472 and the 2772 is of the more traditional type whereas the keyless works of the 2824-2 quite a bit more sophisticated. However, the calendar works of the older 2472 is by far the more complex with its instant flip over of the date. It has been very interesting to study the similarities and differences between these three related automatic ETA movements.
Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch.
Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies.
While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”.
For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples!
A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video.
Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive.
Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication.
So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life!
First part of the disassembly, fixing and reassembly of my new Seiko 7T32-7C20 Flightmaster Chronograph that recently bought as defect.
The damage was caused by trying to manually setting the date at around 11:30PM, when the watch usually starts to change the date automatically.
Enjoy the first part of the video.
I was asked to have a look at this family heirloom just handed to me from a friend of a friend as it was not working and they thought it may have some value. The quality of the movement did not inspire, to say nothing of the identity of the watch !!!
As I had never done a pin-lever before I decided to have a go and get it running again. On inspection I found it be in reasonable condition but very dry and the balance was very stiff and not working. Once the balance and lever were out all ran freely, so I reckoned a good clean and lube would solve the problem.
For those interested I have done a walk-through for the assembly as the strip-down is just the reverse basically.
After a good clean of all the parts in lighter fuel (I'm only a hobbyist) and a strip and relube of the mainspring, the assembly followed
First the gear train, block for stem gears and intermediate wheel were assembled and lubed
Next the barrel was installed (sorry for quality of pic)
Then the train wheel bridge/plate was added and checked for free running from barrel to escape wheel, and lubed
The keyless works are added and lubed, note the yoke also acts as a spring against the setting lever and action checked
The winding wheels and the unusual click spring are added and lubed and action checked.
I forgot to take pic of this next stage but the assembly can be seen in the dial fitting below.
The pin-lever was added and checked for kick The pins and escape wheel where epilame treated and oiled with M941, and the fork was wiped with M941 on a wedged end of pegwood, this is because they are all metal to metal contacts. Even the balance table jewel is metal !!
The balance was added, lubed and checked for function. There are no balance pivot jewels (in fact there are no jewels at all !!!) just holes in the main plate and balance cock. The holes lie under the round plate on the mainplate and the regulator on the balance cock. These were removed/lifted to lube with M9010, the cock plate being a bit tricky/delicate.
The canon pinion was added and lubed. This is not a friction fit but is driven by the intermediate wheel.
The minute wheel and dial washer are added and lubed
The dial has split posts which are just spread open (what technology !!) so this was fitted very carefully so as to avoid damaging the balance or lever which are very close by as shown in pics
Stuck in on my timegrapher which showed a very noisy trace (not surprisingly) but managed to get it reasonably regulated despite iffy beat error and rates in some positions. I aimed at a reasonable rate when worn and it actually keeps fairly good time within 1 minute a day on average.
The hands are fitted, and the movement put into the case-back and case-top/bracelet are refitted.
AND NOW I CAN REVEAL THE IDENTITY OF THIS HIGH END WATCH
Yes its a really awful 1970's fake !!!!
So no family fortune here then !!
Good day, guys! This is my little way of giving back to this wonderful community.
We usually receive for repair a watch handed down by a father to his son. In this case, its a watch given by the son to his father - a Seiko 5 from the early 1990s.
The watch has seen better days, with its hardilex crystal beaten and the watch not moving at all regardless of the amount of shaking you give it.
The hands are corroded and the dial mounted on the movement using contact cement.
I'll skip the disassembly and show you how the Seiko 7009 movement works. The Seiko 7009 technical guide is easy to find on the net though.
First to be mounted is the center wheel that drives the cannon pinion. After which I install the escape wheel and the center wheel bridge.
The third wheel and fourth wheel is installed next. Note that the fourth wheel drives the second hand directly. Then the click comes next.
Prior to installing the unified barrel and train-wheel bridge, you have to install the pawl lever and first reduction wheel assembly. The assembly is held in place by the first reduction wheel holder. Take note of the orientation of the pawl lever.
I find it difficult to install the barrel and train wheel bridge while ensuring that the click spring doesn't get in the way.
<end of part 1>
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That screwplate appears to be metric. So the sizes listed are the thread size, 20 is 2mm, 13 would be 1.3mm. So you would want to start with 1.3mm as your diameter. But- it might (probably) not cut the thread so much as cut and form the thread by displacing metal. I say that because it looks a little dubious in quality. So try a little smaller and see if you get a good thread form. You can turn a taper from say 1.15 to 1.3, and then thread that, and see where along the taper you get a full thread. Make a note of it for the next time you need to thread that size. The old Martin screwplates had a screwy (haha) numbering system. There were two main designations from Martin, L and B; both seem to have the same thread diameters regarding their numbering, the difference is the pitch of the thread. Martin G plates were for left hand threads. Funnily enough, the "backward" numbering system for watch stems and crowns corresponds to the Martin sizing, I guess it was taken up at a time when Martin screwplates were the primary threading tool for watchmakers. 99% of the time I use industrially made metric taps and dies for threading, but sometimes for an old piece I will use a Martin plate. The threads are a little more rounded on their crests. I find that for a given size I need to turn a little undersize, as mentioned above. With new "real" metric stuff I turn to the nominal diameter.
Watch was working fine until I tried the Chronograph function. Everything works fine but the chronograph. It won’t reset back to 12. Just lingers around wherever it wants to go back to. Logic tells me it’s grease or broken/damaged spring or both. Found a bit if a rusty portion on the top pusher. Gonna have to try and take this boy apart.. any help will be greatly appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So IMHO it is not Shellac you have to worry about. In my experience, there were no problems with the shellac (1-2 minutes in IPA in ultrasonic and immeadiatly air blown after). BUT you need to be careful with other glues used, like in the japanses movements - the stud is not glued with shellac, but something else, that I found it softens a bit... For those, I would just rinse by hand in IPA and blow-dry immediatly. LAtely I am using a hairdryer to blow hot air - I find it more reasuring...
The length of an extended pivot whether to take a hand or a driving wheel really depends on the design, but 1.5-2mm is reasonable. I sometimes add a little Loctite 648 or 638 when friction fitting the new pivot, but I think it's mostly psychological, as there really isn't any room for it if the pivot is correctly sized for a friction fit. If the pivot is loose enough in the drilled hole for the Loctite to have room, then it won't hold anyway, there just isn't enough surface area for it to do its magic. You really have to watch the size of the new pivot- often the wall thickness of the drilled arbor is quite thin, and the interference fit is on the order of a few microns. Too much and you can split the arbor... and of course too little and it doesn't hold.
To tap a hole for a screw to fit in it, then you use the 'thread pitch minor diam' for the drill diameter. This will drill a hole the size of the bottom of the threads of the screw. The tap will then take out the metal between this diam and the top of the thread in form of the thread. A larger diameter drill will mean the thread depth is not full and so may strip easy if the screw is tightened too much or just be too loose a fit. A smaller diameter drill will mean the tap is cutting into more metal and if care is not taken will jam the tap and snap it. Normally most screw threads will have tables that show the tap drill diameter. The smaller the screw size then the closer the tap needs to match the pitch minor diameter. For making a screw, then you use the 'thread pitch major diam' for the blank rod/wire diameter. The rest is similar to above, but too big diam will mean more metal removal and possible breaking of the blank in the die, and too small diam will result in a loose fit and possible stripping when tightened. There are basically 2 forms of tap/die for each size. One is tapered to allow easier starting of the tapping stage but will not tap all the way to the bottom of a hole or all the way to a shoulder on a screw. The second will do this and is normally used after the tapered one. The secret is to use some oil or grease on the tap/die when working steel and tougher metals.and ensure the tap/die is fully square to the work-piece. If you don't have tapping paste/oil then try and use one with EP (ie motor EP gear oil or Moebius EP 1300 etc,) even engine oil will do as these have additives that work to reduce friction at the cutting edge of the tap/die and only come into effect at those local high temps. Brass, copper and aluminium can mainly be cut without a lube or just use paraffin oil. Take it slow and just cut a very small bit at a time, backing off every now and then to clear out any swarf, don't force the tap/die. When following a tapered tap with an end tap always clear out the swarf so you have a clean start with the next tap. The pitch is simply the distance between adjacent thread peaks and the form/size based on several industry standards.