Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch.
Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies.
While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”.
For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples!
A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video.
Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive.
Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication.
So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life!
First part of the disassembly, fixing and reassembly of my new Seiko 7T32-7C20 Flightmaster Chronograph that recently bought as defect.
The damage was caused by trying to manually setting the date at around 11:30PM, when the watch usually starts to change the date automatically.
Enjoy the first part of the video.
I was asked to have a look at this family heirloom just handed to me from a friend of a friend as it was not working and they thought it may have some value. The quality of the movement did not inspire, to say nothing of the identity of the watch !!!
As I had never done a pin-lever before I decided to have a go and get it running again. On inspection I found it be in reasonable condition but very dry and the balance was very stiff and not working. Once the balance and lever were out all ran freely, so I reckoned a good clean and lube would solve the problem.
For those interested I have done a walk-through for the assembly as the strip-down is just the reverse basically.
After a good clean of all the parts in lighter fuel (I'm only a hobbyist) and a strip and relube of the mainspring, the assembly followed
First the gear train, block for stem gears and intermediate wheel were assembled and lubed
Next the barrel was installed (sorry for quality of pic)
Then the train wheel bridge/plate was added and checked for free running from barrel to escape wheel, and lubed
The keyless works are added and lubed, note the yoke also acts as a spring against the setting lever and action checked
The winding wheels and the unusual click spring are added and lubed and action checked.
I forgot to take pic of this next stage but the assembly can be seen in the dial fitting below.
The pin-lever was added and checked for kick The pins and escape wheel where epilame treated and oiled with M941, and the fork was wiped with M941 on a wedged end of pegwood, this is because they are all metal to metal contacts. Even the balance table jewel is metal !!
The balance was added, lubed and checked for function. There are no balance pivot jewels (in fact there are no jewels at all !!!) just holes in the main plate and balance cock. The holes lie under the round plate on the mainplate and the regulator on the balance cock. These were removed/lifted to lube with M9010, the cock plate being a bit tricky/delicate.
The canon pinion was added and lubed. This is not a friction fit but is driven by the intermediate wheel.
The minute wheel and dial washer are added and lubed
The dial has split posts which are just spread open (what technology !!) so this was fitted very carefully so as to avoid damaging the balance or lever which are very close by as shown in pics
Stuck in on my timegrapher which showed a very noisy trace (not surprisingly) but managed to get it reasonably regulated despite iffy beat error and rates in some positions. I aimed at a reasonable rate when worn and it actually keeps fairly good time within 1 minute a day on average.
The hands are fitted, and the movement put into the case-back and case-top/bracelet are refitted.
AND NOW I CAN REVEAL THE IDENTITY OF THIS HIGH END WATCH
Yes its a really awful 1970's fake !!!!
So no family fortune here then !!
Good day, guys! This is my little way of giving back to this wonderful community.
We usually receive for repair a watch handed down by a father to his son. In this case, its a watch given by the son to his father - a Seiko 5 from the early 1990s.
The watch has seen better days, with its hardilex crystal beaten and the watch not moving at all regardless of the amount of shaking you give it.
The hands are corroded and the dial mounted on the movement using contact cement.
I'll skip the disassembly and show you how the Seiko 7009 movement works. The Seiko 7009 technical guide is easy to find on the net though.
First to be mounted is the center wheel that drives the cannon pinion. After which I install the escape wheel and the center wheel bridge.
The third wheel and fourth wheel is installed next. Note that the fourth wheel drives the second hand directly. Then the click comes next.
Prior to installing the unified barrel and train-wheel bridge, you have to install the pawl lever and first reduction wheel assembly. The assembly is held in place by the first reduction wheel holder. Take note of the orientation of the pawl lever.
I find it difficult to install the barrel and train wheel bridge while ensuring that the click spring doesn't get in the way.
<end of part 1>
ETA 251.626 Service Walkthrough
The 251.626 is often found in mid to high-end quartz chronographs on the market today.
It is a fairly complex quartz movement that has 5 motors, 2 with Red Coils, and 3 with Green Coils.
To begin the service we start by removing the 3 Indicator Maintaining Small Plates, and Date Indicator.
A 1.4mm screwdriver is all the is needed for every screw on the movement.
Here's a reference photo of the 3 screws for the Indicator Maintaining Small Plates.
There are no more components to remove from the dial side of the movement.
Once the movement is turned over, remove the 2 screws that hold the Magnetic Screen.
Once the Magnetic Screen is removed all the coils are very exposed, so work around these coils with great care.
Here's a reference photo of the 2 screws for the Magnetic Screen.
Next unscrew the 6 screws holding the Additional Printed Circuit and gently lift it off the movement.
Store the Additional Printed Circuit away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the 6 screws for the Additional Printed Circuit.
Next we tackle the 2 trains with the red coils.
Right Side - Minute Counter
Left Side - Hour Counter
The right and left trains contain different size wheels and should be kept separate for ease of assembly.
We shall start with the right side.
Remove the Minute Counter Bridge
Next remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
Next remove the Coil and Stator.
Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components and their corosponding screws.
Note the 4 spokes on the Minute Counting Wheel.
Remove the Hour Counter Bridge.
Remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
Remove the Coil and Stator.
Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components.
Note the 3 spokes on the Hour Counting Wheel.
Store these 2 trains in separate sections in your parts tray, and when cleaning store them in sparate parts containers.
Next remove the Chronograph Bridge
Now remove the Chronograph Wheel
Unscrew the Green Coils and remove them.
Store the Coils away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components and their corresponding screws.
Remove the Train Wheel Bridge.
Remove the Wheels of the Train.
This is quite a complex train of wheels.
So to assist you I've cleaned up the rather cluttered schematic supplied by ETA and colour coded each wheel and it's location on the Main Plate.
Here's a reference photo of the top of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
And also the underneath of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
Remove the Rotors and Stators.
Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the Upper Plate and remove it.
Here's a reference photo of the Upper Plate, Connector, and the corosponding screws.
This now exposes the Electronic Module.
Remove the Stop Lever/Switch
Remove the Cannon Pinion with Driver.
Then remove the Electronic Module.
Pull out the Stem and Sliding Pinion.
Now store the Electronic Module away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Remove the Minute Wheel, the Hour Wheel, and Contact Intermediate Wheel.
Before we can remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel, we need to pull back the Date Jumper.
Gently lift the tab (Yellow Arrow) until it's at plate level and pull it backwards.
This will pull the arm of the Date Jumper back and allow you to remove the wheel.
Here's a reference photo of the wheels.
Lastly we need to remove the keyless work.
Unscrew the Setting Lever Spring and then remove the Setting Lever, Yoke, Driving Wheel, Internediate Setting Wheel No.1, and the Setting Wheel
Here's a reference photo of the Keyless Work.
The movement is now completely disassembled.
I hope you've enjoyed this disassembly walkthrough and found it's given you the information and confidence to tackle this tricky but rewarding quartz movement.
I will post the assembly procedures tomorrow, Lord willing :)
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Generally speaking you can replace a pallet stone with another of the same width, and that has been shaped for the appropriate side of the fork (entry or exit). Let's say for your average vintage watch, a replacement stone from Seitz or other assortment will probably be just fine. You do run into issues with certain escapements for higher end watches from back in the day or modern watches with higher beats and more teeth in the escape wheel; often older high end escapements might have significantly different face angles from "common", and modern escapements have very different angles for sure. Usually it's possible and normal to replace an entire fork for a modern watch. With vintage/antique it can be very advantageous to fine tune the angle on the impulse face. One issue with replacement stones is that they are sometimes just too long overall, and need to be shortened. This is usually done on the end that fits in the fork as it just needs to be approximately squared off; I do it with a fine diamond grinding wheel (7 micron) holding the stone in a tiny vice. I suppose it could be done with a fine diamond file, but these will tend to chip the stone and while not affecting the function it is unsightly.
Hi Sonny and welcome to the forum. With the nice etching on the Waltham I'd certainly give it a go and try restore it to a new lease of life. First as Saswatch says strip it and take lots of photos while you are doing it. Next inspect all the parts meticulously looking for broken or worn items. If you are not sure thats what this forums for ask and you will receive advice. During stripping you may come across difficulties, if so just ask for help. It would be great to see you (a) find the errors and (b) correct them and (c) have a fully functioning time piece that you have made work.