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Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough - A Beginners Quartz Service

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Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough


I thought I'd post a walkthrough on a simple quartz movement for people who are just starting out in watch repairing.




The Ronda 715 is an excellent movement to begin with, as it's simple in design; but has all the components needed to practice your skills on.

Even better is that it only cost around $10 to buy this movement brand new online.  So if you break it or loose a part, you learn from the experience, and just buy another one :)  Perfect!!


The Ronda 715 is found in many of the "Fashion" brand watches, like Guess, JAG, Loyal, etc...


As this is a walkthrough for novices there will be arrows to every part as we disassemble this movement.

I also recommend you download the Tech Spec PDF and get familiar with how to read them.

Here's the link to down the PDF



Remember to have fun!!  :lol:  If you start to get frustrated, just have a break and come back to it later.

Patience and perseverance will get you there, and once the skills are mastered it's very rewarding.


Ok, lets begin


Firstly, you identify this particular caliber of movement by the number stamped into the plastic surround.

As you can see this one is stamped "715"




The tools you will need for this service are as follows:

  • Bergeon 4040 Movement Holder
  • An Eye Loupe, or some type of optics 3x or better
  • Pegwood
  • 0.8mm Screwdriver
  • 1.2mm Screwdriver
  • Tweezers
  • Hand Lifters
  • A Hand Setting Tool
  • A Parts Tray with cover
  • And a piece of Rodico





Since I am using a movement purchased from CusionsUK, I unfortunately don't have Hands or a Dial to remove.

If you are servicing a movement presently in a watch, I suggest you watch one of Mark's video's to see how you remove Hands and the Dial.

Mark's Videos are a fantastic resource to show you proper technics, and I highly recommend viewing them.

They can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/user/jewldood/videos


Once the Hands and Dial are removed, we then need to remove the battery, if one is installed, before we begin disassembly.

On this movement it is done by gently pulling the Keeper Arm back away from the battery.

Be careful when doing this so that you don't slip and damage the Coil.




Then turn the movement over and remove the 4 screws, using a 0.8mm Screwdriver, that hold down the Date Indicator Guard, and remove it.




Here is a reference photo of the Date Indicator Guard and screws.




Next, hold down the Jumper Spring with Pegwood to stop it pinging away, and remove it with your tweezers.

Then remove the Date Jumper and Date Indictor Ring.




Next remove the Indictor Driving Wheel




Then the Date Indicator Plate




Followed by the Hour Wheel.




Next remove the Setting Wheel




Remove the Minute Wheel




Remove the Secondary Yoke




This completes all the components on the dial side of this movement.

Turn the movement over in the holder.




Unscrew the 3 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Module Cover Plate, and remove it.

NOTE: One of the screw is unique and larger than the others, remember it's location.




Here is a reference photo of the Module Cover Plate and the 3 screws.




Next remove the single screw that holds the Circuit and the Coil.

Then remove the Circuit VERY carefully and store it somewhere very safe.




Here is a reference photo of the Circuit and screw.




Next remove the Coil by lifting it with the end with no circuit tracks on it, as shown below.




Now unscrew the 2 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Train Bridge and lift it off gently.




Here is a reference photo of the Train Bridge and screws.




Next remove the wheels of the train carefully, then the Rotor and Stator.




From left to right there names are: Third Wheel, Second Wheel, and Intermediate Wheel.




And here are the Rotor and Stator.




Unscrew the single screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Centre Bridge and remove it.

The Cannon Pinion should be on the centre post of the bridge and come away with it.

NOTE: This screw is also unique with a thicker head, remember it's location.




Here is a reference photo of the Centre Bridge, Cannon Pinion and screw.




Next remove the screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Plastic Setting Lever Cover, and remove it.




Here is a reference photo of the Setting Lever Cover and screw.




Then lift out the Setting Lever and Primary Yoke.




Lastly, pull out the Stem and the Sliding Pinion should fall to your work mat.




You have now completely disassembled the movement ... WELL DONE!! :)




The black plastic outer ring can not be removed, it is riveted to the Main Plate




All the parts can be put in the cleaning machine or Ultrasonic ... EXPECT THE FOLLOWING PARTS!

  • Battery
  • Circuit
  • Coil
  • Rotor




I hope this was a fun movement to begin your journey into watch repairing, and that it builds your confidence to advance further.




Assembly will be posted soon...stay tuned!



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Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough

Part 2




The 2 lubricants you'll need to service this movement are Moebius Quartz Oil and 9501.




For an oiler I would recommend the "Blue" size oiler for this service.




I haven't added all of the oiling points as I didn't want to clutter up the images and make it confusing.

Please study the Tech PDF for all the oiling points, and replace their oil recommendations as follows:




If you don't have an Ultrasonic Cleaner, or a Watch Part Cleaning Machine, you can simply use Shellite (White Spirits) or Lighter Fluid to clean the parts.




To clean the Rotor use a piece of Rodico.




To begin the assembly, place 9501 on the Stem as shown below.




Hold the Sliding Pinion in place and insert the Stem.

Then place some Quartz Oil in the yoke slot of the Sliding Pinion.




Next we need to install the Setting Lever and Primary Yoke.

Install the Setting Lever and then place the Yoke on top of it, so the arm of the Setting Lever fits into the slot in the Yoke as shown below.




Press down the Yoke and turn the Setting Lever clockwise to slide on top of it.

Make sure the Setting Lever is seated into the slot on the Stem.




Replace the Plastic Setting Lever Cover, and secure using a 1.2mm Screwdriver.




Install the Battery Contact.




Place some Quartz Oil on the tube of the Cannon Pinion where indicated.




Then place some Quartz Oil on the post of the Centre Bridge where indicated.




Then install the Cannon Pinion on the post of the Centre Bridge.




Place the Centre Bridge on the Main Plate, and secure the single screw using a 1.2mm Screwdriver.

Note this screw is unique, with a thick head.





Install the Stator.




Install the Rotor




The train is the next to be installed.

We start with the Third Wheel.

Notice it has the longer gear on the pivot.




Install it on the Centre Bridge.




Next is the Intermediate Wheel, with the shorter gear on the pivot.




Install it on the Centre Bridge.




Next is the Second Wheel, which needs a small application of Quartz Oil where indicated.




Install it on the Centre Bridge.




Then carefully install the Train Bridge and with your oiler gently adjust the wheels until the pivots locate into the holes on the bridge.

Then tighten down the 2 screws with a 1.2mm Screwdriver




Next place the Coil back onto the movement, being careful only to hold it on the end with no circuit tracks on it.




Then install the Circuit; but DO NOT replace the screws.




Place the Module Cover Plate over the Circuit.




Then select the 4 screws to secure all these parts down.

Note the longer threaded screw for the Coil, and the larger headed screw for the Battery Keeper.




Place all the screws in place and screw them down half way with a 1.2mm Screwdriver.




Once the screws are down half way, go back around the tighten them down.

The reason we do this is to align all the parts with the Circuit, and so that no strain is placed on it.

It also makes sure the connections between the Coil and Circuit Board are aligned properly.




Install the Battery Insulation.




Turn the movement over to the dial side.




Install the Minute Wheel.




Install the Setting Wheel.




Followed by the Hour Wheel.




Install the Indictor Driving Wheel, and make sure it's replace in the correct orientation.




Replace the Secondary Yoke




Replace the Date Indicator Plate




Install the Date Jumper and Date Indictor Ring.





Now there are 2 ways to install the Jumper Spring.

One way for the Novice and another way for the more advanced.

Once you get confident with your tweezer skills I'd recommend to start practicing the advance method, as many movements will not offer the easier way to install springs.


Method 1 (Novice)

Install the Date Indicator Guard and screw down the 4 screw with a 0.8mm Screwdriver.




Then slide the longer leg of the Jumper Spring into the inspection hole.




Then grab the shorter leg of the spring and lever it into the inspection hole.




Method 2 (Advanced)

Place the Jumper spring into it's position, and use a piece of pegwood to secure the loop of the spring to stop it from pinging away.

Then with your tweezers, grab the long leg of the spring and lever it across until its positioned behind the Date Jumper.





Then replace the Date Indicator Guard and screw down the 4 screw with a 0.8mm Screwdriver.






Install the battery, hooking it under the 2 claws, and then lever the Battery Keeper back and push the Battery down into position.





The service is now complete.

If this was the first time you've serviced a movement, WELL DONE!  I hope this has been fun and increased your confidence.




I would now repeat servicing this movement over and over until you can do it without referring to this walkthrough.

Also name every part as you remove and replace it. 

This is the road to increasing your practical skills and terminology.




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Nice one and thanks for making the effort to document the process.

.I've an old Ronda which I swapped out last year which will be my first attempt at a quartz strip, clean and re-assembly after reading this post.


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.I've an old Ronda which I swapped out last year which will be my first attempt at a quartz strip, clean and re-assembly after reading this post.



Fantastic Nad!! 

This is why I make these walkthrough, and to see posts like yours makes it all worthwhile.

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Just finished my first strip, clean and re-assemble of a quartz movement following Lawson’s excellent notes. I’m pretty much a novice on a learning curve having only worked on a handful 50/60’s mechanical gents and ladies watches.


My example was a 7 jewel Ronda which I’d swapped out a mates watch a while ago as a non runner. Not exactly the same as the one in Lawson’s notes but near enough to make no difference.


For me the most difficult part was lining up the wheel pivots, took around an hour listening to Glastonbury on the radio. Magnetic attraction from the Rotor causing me a few issues.


End result, well all corrosion removed and now nice and clean with no broken or missing parts. Still not running with a fresh battery however but that gives me the opportunity re-do, and this time try and fault find a non running Quartz movement.


Thanks again Lawson, you’re an inspiration.



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I have a Ronda 753 I've been trying to fix for a couple of weeks.  I cannot get the rotor to behave while putting on the train bridge.  I've tried putting small rotor magnets beneath the jewel and over the train pivot in various combinations.  The problem is that everything is so close together and the train bridge is magnetic.  Also, the rotor magnet is a strong little bugger.  Just can't do it.  So in assembly I'd be particularly interested in how you get the train bridge back on for the 715.  It may provide some tips for putting it on my 753.

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Found it a little tricky as well.

Had to partially insert the screws to hold the Stator in place to counteract the magnetic attraction.

When encouraging the wheel pivots into the bridge jewels, a thinned down plastic floss stick came in handy to keep the rotor in it's lower jewel.

Once wheel bridge in place, I then removed the screws I'd use to hold the Stator in place. Took me a while but worked for me.


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Thanks nad!  Sounds like a good idea.  How did you use the floss stick to keep the rotor in its lower position?  It just occurred to me that I could maybe use that or a piece of pegwood and make a little v-cut with which to hold the rotor and keep if from squirming around while I get the pivots for the other gears in place--which I can get into place with no problem.  Thanks.


Oh!, I forgot to mention this is a great writeup.


Edited by DouglasSkinner

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After putting the Rotor and wheels in position, the bridge was replaced. It's retaining screws where put in and screwed down a little to hold in place but too much to damage the pivots.

Pegwood to put a little pressure on the bridge and the floss stick to work the wheels and Rotor into place. In my innocence I normally use a clean oiler here but the magnetic attraction of the Rotor on it was causing me a problem.

Not sure if this is best practice but I got the wheels into their jewels first and then worked the Rotor into it's upper jewel.

Hope this is of some use to you.


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Hey Douglas


The most import advise I can offer is taking time to position the rotor and wheels.

If you look at the picture of rotor and wheels that I took, they are seated very carefully to be as aligned as possible before fitting the bridge.




Once you've got the rotor and wheels positioned as pictured, carefully place the bridge on top, and hold it down gently on top with a piece of pegwood.  Then with a fine pair of brass tweezers (#4 or #5) or an oiler, gently "worry" the wheels and rotor into their jewels whilst holding the bridge down with the pegwood. 

"Worrying" means moving them slightly back and forth


Also if your bridge has become magnetized, you will have to de-magnetize it

A de-magnetizer is an essential piece of kit, and are very cheap on ebay ... I purchased mine for about $20.00.  Never put parts into a cleaner without de-magnetizing all the parts.

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Thanks for the help to both Lawson and nad.  I have a demagnetizer and will try it.  Also I will use a floss pick to jiggle the wheels into their pivots.  The Ronda 753 has 1 jewel at the base of the rotor.  The lack of jewels makes it hard to get the wheels into their pivots.  Will keep trying though.

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New member here from NJ, usa. Nice write-up and super pictures. This takes alot of time. I just relaced a coil I dug up from a battery change...learned my lesson and this got me sparked on horology. A local watch repair told me my nice basecamp swiss army watch was beyond repair....lol.

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Again, thank you very much Lawson for this write up and excellent pictures. This was my second watch to strip, clean & rebuild after the mechanical ETA2540. The Ronda 715 movement was housed in a Traser Commander P6506 watch.

As a beginner I was presented with a problem and an "advanced-level" challenge.

While stripping the watch I'm using a 12 grid transparent box, each grid with its own lid and parts stored per "category". After rebuilding the "movement-side" and installing the Module Cover Plate, I was left with one small part..........

It was stored in the box compartment together with the Module Cover Plate and the 3 screws, so it had to be an "at the end" item. I checked all Lawson pictures carefully, but no. I checked the Ronda 715 exploded view, not there! Tossing the item around and searched for a possible fit, I figured it had to be an addition battery retainer. After installing it fitted well and it retains the battery. I guess it must be an item which was installed by Traser, or upon their request?

I can't get the pictures in between the text (maybe somebody can explain?), but if they are all presented as an attachment at the end of the text; picture 1) is the 12-grid box I'm using, Picture 2) shows the battery compartment without the retainer bracket, picture 3) shows with the retainer bracket installed and picture 4) the "culprit", the bracket itself. Sorry for the quality of the pictures & color-balance......also my first time micro.


The "advanced-level" challenge was placing the jumper-spring. Two options were given: the Novice and another way for the more advanced.

Not minding a challenge, I went for the more "advanced" way. For more than an hour I have been fiddling with this little spring. I found the spring, due its rectangular form, very eager to jump and a few time it was nearly gone. I also thought that if you manage to get the spring in place, with all surrounding components, the Date Indicator plate and the Date jumper still laying "loose", the whole "system" became very unstable. A little vibration to the work-top, or when placing the  Date Indicator Guard, and an uncontrolled chain of events could be triggered, possibly sending the tiny spring into infinity.

Maybe the "inspection hole" was designed with a dual purpose in mind, as it made the spring installment within minutes and very safe. From my beginners perspective, unless you have a few springs to spare, I would definite go for the Novice option.


Another one down ;-)


Best regards: Roland.





Edited by Endeavor

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I want to replace the movement of my watch (Esprit 102952). I didn't know "Ronda" movements since this is not mh job anyway. But I am curious, why the heck this famous quality brand name  ceased about 3 years of the purchase date while a cheap chinese model keeps working for years....


Anyway, I opened the watch and the only sign i found is "Ronda One 1 Jewel, Swiss Paris". Nothing more, not even in the plastic of the watch. How to decide what model is extacly ? It has only two hands. I attach you a photo.




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Hi Sdancer, and welcome to the forum :)

I hear what you say a lot where I work, and it's hard to be brutally honest to a client who's spent sometimes over $1000 dollars on this type of watch, without getting them very upset.  But on this forum, and on all my threads I want to help and inform people who have taken the time to visit Watch Repair Talk.  With that being said, here's the response to your question.

These type of watches are classed as "Fashion" watches.  They are commissioned by different brand names: yours being Esprit, and they are pumped out of factories in China with only cosmetic input from the brands they represent.  The true production cost of these watches are around $15-20 per unit ... no I am not joking.

The movement in your watch is a Ronda 762 (2 hand), which cost about $4-11 dollars replacement cost, depending where you source the replacement movement.  So unfortunately your assumption that this is a " famous quality brand" is not factual when it comes to watches they make.  Personally I despise these avarice companies that play upon people's lack of horological knowledge, and the simple fact that you can't see the cheap movement inside, to make profits margins in the THOUSANDS of percent.

These cheap Ronda movements are still very accurate, do their job keeping time, and are exceptional value for money; but they are built to a price point, not to a quality point.  Some run for over a decade without any problem, whilst other fail in months ... it's a little hit and miss with a complete movement that costs less than a cup of coffee.

The good news is that they are very easily replaced :) Simply buy a new movement off of ebay, or someone like CousinsUK.  You need to measure the Hour Wheel Height of the movement (as seen below), or it may have a large number stamped on the back which is the height number, ranging from (1) 0.95mm to (5) 3.15mm.  Make sure you get the correct one or it won't fit inside your case.


Once you have the movement, remove the watch hands, gently lever the old movement off the dial (it is only held on with fiction fit posts) install the new movement and replace the hands!  Even if you have to buy some hand lifters, it will only cost you around $25 to put a brand new movement in your watch.

I hope this has helped, and you are now much better informed when next you purchase a watch .... also we are always here to offer advise and help even when it comes to choosing your next watch :)


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Thank you Lawson,

I really like the people that they know their job. Yes you are correct. The model is 762 as I finally found a tiny number (I need to buy a descent magnifier :biggrin: ) in the corner of the base. You are professional and you know the marketing tricks in your subject, but its really pitty to find out that cheap chinese models are sold in the US or EU markets with very high prices.

That's global economy, and its not good in my opinion.

I really enjoyed your answer. Keep the good working and best regards from Greece.

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      This is quite a complex train of wheels.
      So to assist you I've cleaned up the rather cluttered schematic supplied by ETA and colour coded each wheel and it's location on the Main Plate.

      Here's a reference photo of the top of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.

      And also the underneath of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.

      Remove the Rotors and Stators.

      Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the Upper Plate and remove it.

      Here's a reference photo of the Upper Plate, Connector, and the corosponding screws.

      This now exposes the Electronic Module.

      Remove the Stop Lever/Switch

      Remove the Cannon Pinion with Driver.

      Then remove the Electronic Module.

      Pull out the Stem and Sliding Pinion.
      Now store the Electronic Module away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.

      Remove the Minute Wheel, the Hour Wheel, and Contact Intermediate Wheel.

      Before we can remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel, we need to pull back the Date Jumper.
      Gently lift the tab (Yellow Arrow) until it's at plate level and pull it backwards.
      This will pull the arm of the Date Jumper back and allow you to remove the wheel.

      Here's a reference photo of the wheels.

      Lastly we need to remove the keyless work.
      Unscrew the Setting Lever Spring and then remove the Setting Lever, Yoke, Driving Wheel, Internediate Setting Wheel No.1, and the Setting Wheel

      Here's a reference photo of the Keyless Work.

      The movement is now completely disassembled.

      I hope you've enjoyed this disassembly walkthrough and found it's given you the information and confidence to tackle this tricky but rewarding quartz movement.
      I will post the assembly procedures tomorrow, Lord willing :)

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    • Welcome, i take it your'e not in Alabama.
    • you could add an extender.
    • Hi, i'm from Birmingham but now live in Bromsgrove, I worked for F.W. Leesons in 1968 doing clock repairs but now only repair them for friends and family. Looking forward to reading more on this forum. Tony
    • I probably wouldn't case harden a part like that, easier to grab a piece of tool steel, heat and quench.  Because the centre is still ductile, case hardened parts are not usually tempered and you don't want dead hard threads, they're brittle.  I'd probably make it from a steel that could be through hardened.  Where it shines is when you want parts with a dead surface bu still have the flexibility of a ductile centre As for recipes etc, I have enough knowledge to understand the application insofar as use and design goes, but I've always sent parts out to commercial heat treaters for case hardening.....so don't often do so unless there is some specific advantage to casehardened the part.  Lots of info out there for you uncover, I'm just not the guru on specific pack hardening recipes.  Bone meal is one, but I understand it stinks something fierce so would be better done outdoors.  That, and you need a away to hold the steel above the critical temp during the soak There is a quick and dirty approach, but you'll only get a few thou or so depth with a couple treatments.  You get the piece red hot with a propane torch and roll the piece around in Kasenit.  It does work for wear, but its not very deep.  I have done that method many times.  Kasenit isn't made anymore, but I understand there's a replacement. Just for interest, here's some model hit and miss engine parts I did a Kasenit case hardening on
    • OK. Suppose I have a  dia. 6mm x 50mm shaft, cut and threaded that I want to case harden entirely, do you have a practical recipe, step by step and with all the times, materials and tools? I don't care which color it takes as I assume I can blacked it with a "magic" liquid. l also want to get a booklet about this, but if it doesn't it has the.approach above it will be useless to me. 
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