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Elgin Going Barrel Issue?


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I am new to the watch repair. A new hobby (i hope). The mechanical aspects have been fascinating which led me to get my first pocket watch to attempt a repair. I have an Elgin 18, Grade 73, Model 5. It has a going barrel. Tore everything down, but the barrel, cleaned and replaced broken/worn escape wheel (top pivot was an issue). Inspected the barrel and it seems to have an intact mainspring, old, worn maybe needs to be replaced. For now left it as is. Putting it back together was a chore. When i go to wind it the entire barrel moves. There is no locking mechanism i can make out from diagrams etc. It appears the arbor should spin freely and wind the spring. The click and gear look to be functioning. Any advice? Thanks.

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Do you have access to something like the series from the Chicago School of Watchmaking? It has very good sections on pocket watches from the major American pocket watch makers. The pdf should be available somewhere for little or no cost. Here's a snippet from the part on going barrels. Is the click between the plates present and with spring? Good luck.

 

ElgGoingB.JPG

Edited by MrRoundel
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I'll see what i can get together as for images. Having read a little more, not sure if i am testing things correctly. When the watch didn't seem to work after reassembly, without canon pinion installed, i stripped it back down and just left the barrel and the center wheel. I did this because of the full bridge obscures the parts, therefore tried to get it out of the equation. I expected to see the barrel not move as i was winding it until some tension was built up. It started moving as i started turning the stem. Was my assumption wrong? Thanks for all the help.

 

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    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
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