Jump to content

My Collection (minus the photos as I wasn't expecting this)


Recommended Posts

Accurist Automatic Shockmaster, 9ct case, 1960's

Certina Bullseye Incabloc, Manual wind, sub second, 1960's

Ingersoll Auto Calendar, GP with GP Bracelet, 70's/80's

Tissot 1853 GP Quartz, 1990's?

Cyma, 9ct case, manual wind,  dated 1960

Baume & Mercier Hampton, SS Quartz, rose gold dial, sub second at 6pm, 2011 on

Baume & Mercier Riviera, SS Quartz, white dial 2011 on

Rado Jubile, Ceramic bracelet, 4 diamond black dial, 2000 onward

Tissot  18ct Gold Run Sapphire, Quartz, 2002 dated

Birch & Gaydon Land and Water Trench Watch, Cushion Case,  Ref 3110972, 1935-1938

Zenith Stellina, cal 120, ref 4752357, SS case Gold hour arrows, 1955-59

Longines Flagship, Square case automatic, SS, cal 7678, 1970-79

Visible 9ct cushion case, movement signed Visible, manual wind, 1930's

Unsigned 9ct cushion case, white porcelain dial, Red 12, Roman numerals, dates to 1924

Rolex Datejust 1603 SS from 1973

Waltham Maxim, mesh bracelet, SS, manual wind, 1956

Roamer Red Sea auto, SS, 1960-69

Longines 1172.1, GP, yellow gold dial, manual wind, 1980-89

Buren Lux, solid silver, full hunter pocket watch, manual wind, 1903

Raymond Weil Tradition, SS, Quartz, 2011 on

Raymond Weil Tango, GP case and GP bracelet, Quartz, 2011 on

Schwob 9ct ladies manual wind cocktail watch, 1950's?

Jaquet Droz 9ct manual wind, 1950's

Longines 9ct, gold dial, manual wind, 1957

Omega seamaster cosmic 2000 automatic, 1980's

Seiko Solar Chronograph, Quartz, white face, solar powered. 2011 on

Carvel, solid silver case, manual wind, modern, for parts.

 

I haven't counted the watches I've bought for my beloved wifey with the expensive tastes.  These include JLC, B&M and Rado.

 

This is the first time I've sat and really thought about how many watches I actually have.  So pleased my wife doesn't know the half of it.  There are another couple lying around somewhere.  They'll turn up.  I'll put up some pictures once I get around to organising these in some sort of order.  Anyhoo, that's where it stands at present.

I hope there are one or two that elicit a response or two.

Cheers

Frankie

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
×
×
  • Create New...