Jump to content

Replacing the regulating pin and boot on a balance


Recommended Posts

I have a watch whos regulating pin and boot (don't know if those are the correct terms), are misshapen.  The pin is crooked, and the boot fouls against it, so it pinches the hairspring rather than keeping the spring centered between them.  I want to replace it, but I don't know how it's connected.  I can't tell if its friction fit, riveted, glued, or whatever.  I will try to get a picture of the regulator from the top if it will be helpful.

Does anyone have any information on how to complete this task?  I do believe Cousins sells replacement assortments for both pieces.

IMG_20220716_151757.jpg

Edited by GregG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, GregG said:

 I do believe Cousins sells replacement assortments for both pieces.

I wouldn't count on finding a good replacement for these, and much less on having an easy job of replacing them without breaking something that is whole at the present time.

I would try first to gently straighten the pin with some wide tip tweezers. And then with the watch running, observe if and where it touches and correct it so that it moves evenly in between.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GregG said:

riveted,

The boot is usually riveted in place.  Somewhere in one of my books I've seen a picture of how to replace the pin but I'm reasonably sure that the latest project. Of course the easy way to figure out that is you look at the other side and see if the pin is just a street tapered pin or whether it has a base to it.

1 hour ago, jdm said:

I wouldn't count on finding a good replacement for these, and much less on having an easy job of replacing them without breaking something that is whole at the present time.

The classic problem of watch repair try to fix it to make it perfect or leave it the way it Is. Right now If you're really careful you should be able to straighten the pin.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

The boot is usually riveted in place.  Somewhere in one of my books I've seen a picture of how to replace the pin but I'm reasonably sure that the latest project. Of course the easy way to figure out that is you look at the other side and see if the pin is just a street tapered pin or whether it has a base to it.

The classic problem of watch repair try to fix it to make it perfect or leave it the way it Is. Right now If you're really careful you should be able to straighten the pin.

 

 

Part of the problem is that the boot is causing the pin to bend.  For whatever reason, when the boot is tuned into place, it fouls so hard against the pin that it bends the pin.

I ordered a copy of Bench Practices by Fried.  It has a section dedicated to replacing the pins/boots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just went through this, see this thread - 

 The Fried book is good, it goes into detail about making replacement pins. You can also buy an assortment at Cousins. 

With respect to the above thread, it turns out that K&D made a punch for their staking tools that is actually a holder for sub punches, I now have one and any new sub punches that I make will be for that holder.

 

Good Luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, dadistic said:

I just went through this, see this thread - 

 The Fried book is good, it goes into detail about making replacement pins. You can also buy an assortment at Cousins. 

With respect to the above thread, it turns out that K&D made a punch for their staking tools that is actually a holder for sub punches, I now have one and any new sub punches that I make will be for that holder.

 

Good Luck!

Thanks for the link.  It looks like the "sub-punch" holder can actually be devised by turning a custom one and using a Seitz reaming spindle to do the job.  I would assume this process works for the boot as well as the pin?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • that band is old as stated, there is a kit that pops up from time to time on selling sites for the repair of these type bands, some of this type are adjustable on a few links, one adjustable type allows you to align the round opening in the expansion slit [like yours] with the rivet to separate, but if yours won't come out then the rivet head is too big and will have to be done with some rivet removal and replacement, I suppose if you could make/optain the correct rivets that one could alter the said band, the tops/caps do lift off after raising the tabs....  
    • This is a watch from a friend who sent it to a neighborhood watchmaker for a battery change. It came back with the watch stem in a ziplock bag and the dial skewed 20°. The watchmaker told him that the stem was faulty and the watch cannot be repaired. I opened up the watch and found that one dial foot was broken off and still stuck in the movement, while the other was bent until it was flat against the dial. The stem could be inserted but it couldn't be pulled out to quickset and time adjusting positions. I did a full disassemble, cleaned and oiled the movement. But when it put in the battery, the second hand runs super fast. Like it gains 30 mins every hour. Any advice on fixing this problem? TIA.
    • I determined that the balance staff is rotating, not the roller table, so my second attempt at riveting was unsuccessful. I have ordered a new balance staff and will take measurements when it arrives. The balance staff i originally ordered (and now reordered) was specified as: Replacement balance staff: (A. Schild Caliber 984 1002 1021 1124 Original Balance Staff Part 723) so it should be correct. Measurements: (see pic below for terminology) xxxyy is a place holder until the new balance staff arrives. Lower pivot: Old - .08 mm New - xxxyy Lower pivot to balance seat: Old - 1.53 mm New - xxxyy Roller shoulder: Old - .42 mm New - xxxyy Hub: Old - xxxyy New - xxxyy Balance shoulder: Old - .86 mm New - xxxyy Collet shoulder: Old - .56 mm New - xxxyy Upper pivot: Old - broken New - xxxyy
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds.  We're here to help. 
    • I was just about to adk that, probably they have unnecessary waiting lists to make their watches appear more exclusive than they actually are.
×
×
  • Create New...