First part of the disassembly, fixing and reassembly of my new Seiko 7T32-7C20 Flightmaster Chronograph that recently bought as defect.
The damage was caused by trying to manually setting the date at around 11:30PM, when the watch usually starts to change the date automatically.
Enjoy the first part of the video.
I was asked to have a look at this family heirloom just handed to me from a friend of a friend as it was not working and they thought it may have some value. The quality of the movement did not inspire, to say nothing of the identity of the watch !!!
As I had never done a pin-lever before I decided to have a go and get it running again. On inspection I found it be in reasonable condition but very dry and the balance was very stiff and not working. Once the balance and lever were out all ran freely, so I reckoned a good clean and lube would solve the problem.
For those interested I have done a walk-through for the assembly as the strip-down is just the reverse basically.
After a good clean of all the parts in lighter fuel (I'm only a hobbyist) and a strip and relube of the mainspring, the assembly followed
First the gear train, block for stem gears and intermediate wheel were assembled and lubed
Next the barrel was installed (sorry for quality of pic)
Then the train wheel bridge/plate was added and checked for free running from barrel to escape wheel, and lubed
The keyless works are added and lubed, note the yoke also acts as a spring against the setting lever and action checked
The winding wheels and the unusual click spring are added and lubed and action checked.
I forgot to take pic of this next stage but the assembly can be seen in the dial fitting below.
The pin-lever was added and checked for kick The pins and escape wheel where epilame treated and oiled with M941, and the fork was wiped with M941 on a wedged end of pegwood, this is because they are all metal to metal contacts. Even the balance table jewel is metal !!
The balance was added, lubed and checked for function. There are no balance pivot jewels (in fact there are no jewels at all !!!) just holes in the main plate and balance cock. The holes lie under the round plate on the mainplate and the regulator on the balance cock. These were removed/lifted to lube with M9010, the cock plate being a bit tricky/delicate.
The canon pinion was added and lubed. This is not a friction fit but is driven by the intermediate wheel.
The minute wheel and dial washer are added and lubed
The dial has split posts which are just spread open (what technology !!) so this was fitted very carefully so as to avoid damaging the balance or lever which are very close by as shown in pics
Stuck in on my timegrapher which showed a very noisy trace (not surprisingly) but managed to get it reasonably regulated despite iffy beat error and rates in some positions. I aimed at a reasonable rate when worn and it actually keeps fairly good time within 1 minute a day on average.
The hands are fitted, and the movement put into the case-back and case-top/bracelet are refitted.
AND NOW I CAN REVEAL THE IDENTITY OF THIS HIGH END WATCH
Yes its a really awful 1970's fake !!!!
So no family fortune here then !!
Good day, guys! This is my little way of giving back to this wonderful community.
We usually receive for repair a watch handed down by a father to his son. In this case, its a watch given by the son to his father - a Seiko 5 from the early 1990s.
The watch has seen better days, with its hardilex crystal beaten and the watch not moving at all regardless of the amount of shaking you give it.
The hands are corroded and the dial mounted on the movement using contact cement.
I'll skip the disassembly and show you how the Seiko 7009 movement works. The Seiko 7009 technical guide is easy to find on the net though.
First to be mounted is the center wheel that drives the cannon pinion. After which I install the escape wheel and the center wheel bridge.
The third wheel and fourth wheel is installed next. Note that the fourth wheel drives the second hand directly. Then the click comes next.
Prior to installing the unified barrel and train-wheel bridge, you have to install the pawl lever and first reduction wheel assembly. The assembly is held in place by the first reduction wheel holder. Take note of the orientation of the pawl lever.
I find it difficult to install the barrel and train wheel bridge while ensuring that the click spring doesn't get in the way.
<end of part 1>
Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough
I thought I'd post a walkthrough on a simple quartz movement for people who are just starting out in watch repairing.
The Ronda 715 is an excellent movement to begin with, as it's simple in design; but has all the components needed to practice your skills on.
Even better is that it only cost around $10 to buy this movement brand new online. So if you break it or loose a part, you learn from the experience, and just buy another one :) Perfect!!
The Ronda 715 is found in many of the "Fashion" brand watches, like Guess, JAG, Loyal, etc...
As this is a walkthrough for novices there will be arrows to every part as we disassemble this movement.
I also recommend you download the Tech Spec PDF and get familiar with how to read them.
Here's the link to down the PDF
Remember to have fun!! :lol: If you start to get frustrated, just have a break and come back to it later.
Patience and perseverance will get you there, and once the skills are mastered it's very rewarding.
Ok, lets begin
Firstly, you identify this particular caliber of movement by the number stamped into the plastic surround.
As you can see this one is stamped "715"
The tools you will need for this service are as follows:
Bergeon 4040 Movement Holder An Eye Loupe, or some type of optics 3x or better Pegwood 0.8mm Screwdriver 1.2mm Screwdriver Tweezers Hand Lifters A Hand Setting Tool A Parts Tray with cover And a piece of Rodico
Since I am using a movement purchased from CusionsUK, I unfortunately don't have Hands or a Dial to remove.
If you are servicing a movement presently in a watch, I suggest you watch one of Mark's video's to see how you remove Hands and the Dial.
Mark's Videos are a fantastic resource to show you proper technics, and I highly recommend viewing them.
They can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/user/jewldood/videos
Once the Hands and Dial are removed, we then need to remove the battery, if one is installed, before we begin disassembly.
On this movement it is done by gently pulling the Keeper Arm back away from the battery.
Be careful when doing this so that you don't slip and damage the Coil.
Then turn the movement over and remove the 4 screws, using a 0.8mm Screwdriver, that hold down the Date Indicator Guard, and remove it.
Here is a reference photo of the Date Indicator Guard and screws.
Next, hold down the Jumper Spring with Pegwood to stop it pinging away, and remove it with your tweezers.
Then remove the Date Jumper and Date Indictor Ring.
Next remove the Indictor Driving Wheel
Then the Date Indicator Plate
Followed by the Hour Wheel.
Next remove the Setting Wheel
Remove the Minute Wheel
Remove the Secondary Yoke
This completes all the components on the dial side of this movement.
Turn the movement over in the holder.
Unscrew the 3 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Module Cover Plate, and remove it.
NOTE: One of the screw is unique and larger than the others, remember it's location.
Here is a reference photo of the Module Cover Plate and the 3 screws.
Next remove the single screw that holds the Circuit and the Coil.
Then remove the Circuit VERY carefully and store it somewhere very safe.
Here is a reference photo of the Circuit and screw.
Next remove the Coil by lifting it with the end with no circuit tracks on it, as shown below.
Now unscrew the 2 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Train Bridge and lift it off gently.
Here is a reference photo of the Train Bridge and screws.
Next remove the wheels of the train carefully, then the Rotor and Stator.
From left to right there names are: Third Wheel, Second Wheel, and Intermediate Wheel.
And here are the Rotor and Stator.
Unscrew the single screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Centre Bridge and remove it.
The Cannon Pinion should be on the centre post of the bridge and come away with it.
NOTE: This screw is also unique with a thicker head, remember it's location.
Here is a reference photo of the Centre Bridge, Cannon Pinion and screw.
Next remove the screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Plastic Setting Lever Cover, and remove it.
Here is a reference photo of the Setting Lever Cover and screw.
Then lift out the Setting Lever and Primary Yoke.
Lastly, pull out the Stem and the Sliding Pinion should fall to your work mat.
You have now completely disassembled the movement ... WELL DONE!! :)
The black plastic outer ring can not be removed, it is riveted to the Main Plate
All the parts can be put in the cleaning machine or Ultrasonic ... EXPECT THE FOLLOWING PARTS!
Battery Circuit Coil Rotor
I hope this was a fun movement to begin your journey into watch repairing, and that it builds your confidence to advance further.
Assembly will be posted soon...stay tuned!
ETA 251.626 Service Walkthrough
The 251.626 is often found in mid to high-end quartz chronographs on the market today.
It is a fairly complex quartz movement that has 5 motors, 2 with Red Coils, and 3 with Green Coils.
To begin the service we start by removing the 3 Indicator Maintaining Small Plates, and Date Indicator.
A 1.4mm screwdriver is all the is needed for every screw on the movement.
Here's a reference photo of the 3 screws for the Indicator Maintaining Small Plates.
There are no more components to remove from the dial side of the movement.
Once the movement is turned over, remove the 2 screws that hold the Magnetic Screen.
Once the Magnetic Screen is removed all the coils are very exposed, so work around these coils with great care.
Here's a reference photo of the 2 screws for the Magnetic Screen.
Next unscrew the 6 screws holding the Additional Printed Circuit and gently lift it off the movement.
Store the Additional Printed Circuit away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the 6 screws for the Additional Printed Circuit.
Next we tackle the 2 trains with the red coils.
Right Side - Minute Counter
Left Side - Hour Counter
The right and left trains contain different size wheels and should be kept separate for ease of assembly.
We shall start with the right side.
Remove the Minute Counter Bridge
Next remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
Next remove the Coil and Stator.
Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components and their corosponding screws.
Note the 4 spokes on the Minute Counting Wheel.
Remove the Hour Counter Bridge.
Remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
Remove the Coil and Stator.
Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components.
Note the 3 spokes on the Hour Counting Wheel.
Store these 2 trains in separate sections in your parts tray, and when cleaning store them in sparate parts containers.
Next remove the Chronograph Bridge
Now remove the Chronograph Wheel
Unscrew the Green Coils and remove them.
Store the Coils away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components and their corresponding screws.
Remove the Train Wheel Bridge.
Remove the Wheels of the Train.
This is quite a complex train of wheels.
So to assist you I've cleaned up the rather cluttered schematic supplied by ETA and colour coded each wheel and it's location on the Main Plate.
Here's a reference photo of the top of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
And also the underneath of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
Remove the Rotors and Stators.
Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the Upper Plate and remove it.
Here's a reference photo of the Upper Plate, Connector, and the corosponding screws.
This now exposes the Electronic Module.
Remove the Stop Lever/Switch
Remove the Cannon Pinion with Driver.
Then remove the Electronic Module.
Pull out the Stem and Sliding Pinion.
Now store the Electronic Module away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Remove the Minute Wheel, the Hour Wheel, and Contact Intermediate Wheel.
Before we can remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel, we need to pull back the Date Jumper.
Gently lift the tab (Yellow Arrow) until it's at plate level and pull it backwards.
This will pull the arm of the Date Jumper back and allow you to remove the wheel.
Here's a reference photo of the wheels.
Lastly we need to remove the keyless work.
Unscrew the Setting Lever Spring and then remove the Setting Lever, Yoke, Driving Wheel, Internediate Setting Wheel No.1, and the Setting Wheel
Here's a reference photo of the Keyless Work.
The movement is now completely disassembled.
I hope you've enjoyed this disassembly walkthrough and found it's given you the information and confidence to tackle this tricky but rewarding quartz movement.
I will post the assembly procedures tomorrow, Lord willing :)
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Really? 0.01mm? Maybe inches?? I just grabbed a largish looking one out of the packet. The head diameter was 0.6mm and the pin length (minus the head) was 2.3mm. The packet really does have quite an assortment with different head and pin lengths and diameters. I would send you one if you knew exactly what you needed, but some of the heads are tapered and some straight, so if this sounds about right then you might find it best to get the assortment to choose the best fit
Hello, fellow watch-maniacs :-D I am new to this forum and to watches, but for the last few years I have gained an increasing interest in mechanical watches. And where to be then, if not part of this wonderful forum? May I already warn you now that my posts will not be without weird gramatical inaccurasies - I am not a native speaker but will do my best :-) - Looking forwards to chat with you all about the best hobby in the world! RAG