Jump to content

First Purchase for Attempted Servicing (Eridas Montre 17 JEWELS)


Gramham

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone,

I'd like to share with you my first purchase for attempted servicing.  By this I mean the watch I want to service one day, after I have developed myself sufficiently in watchmaking skills so as not to break it.  I am currently watching videos like mad and looking around for pocket watch movements to ease myself in, as well as reading as much about watchmaking as I can.

I bought the watch locally here in Hong Kong from a nice man who has (to me) a large collection of about 75 watches.  He doesn't service his own timepieces.  Instead, he pays to have crystals changed and movements serviced.  He has quartz watches, and also mechanical ones, and he has very many beautiful watches.

I suspect this watch (which he never had serviced in any way) is a bit of a foundling now.  Maybe he recently dropped it.  Maybe it's not keeping proper time.  Maybe he's tired of it.

He bought it three years ago from a local dealer of "junk watches", which here in Hong Kong means anything that's not a pinnacle, name-brand timepiece.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had any advice or background information on this watch? 

I could use the help please.  Here's the photos from the listing - the watch is on its way...
 

g.

----

Eridas-Montre-A-2022-07-14.png

Eridas-Montre-B-2022-07-14.png

Eridas-Montre-C-2022-07-14.png

Eridas-Montre-D-2022-07-14.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi It has the look of 60s watch. The name on the dial is not nessesesary the manufacturer that witll be on the movement its self. When you get the watch remove the back and look ubnder the balance wheel, there should be a logo and a number  this is the maker and caliber of the movement. If possible post pictures of the movement for further help.   Cheers

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
×
×
  • Create New...