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As alluded to in my introductory post my current victim is a Raketa 2603.  Disassembly and assembly is complete, and it's still running. phew!  Haven't purchased a timegrapher yet, but it's still satisfying!  I'm about to do a second run through but clean and oil this pass.  

A couple of lessons learned.  I lost the yoke spring (440), it has gone home to its family.  Also, one of the two screws on the settings lever spring (445) is stripped.  After reviewing my initial images it appears there may have been damage to start with.  Any tips to avoid stripping?  My gut instinct is to use the largest screw driver possible that fits without fouling the case. Luckily, these movements are affordable and plentiful.  I was able to find a set of four 2603's for around 12 dollars.  So I'll have spare parts and practice movements.  Also, I purchased the Burgeon 4039 after struggling with the 4040 for this movement.  

Below are pictures of my journey.  I thought I took a ton of pictures and afterward was surprised how few I had!?  Definitely more pictures on new movements from now on.  Will take more images of the train of wheel orientation and keyless works configurations on this teardown because those appear to be the interesting bits IMO.

To Be Continued...

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Realized, I didn't have an after!

 

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 Usualy screws that get ruined are the ones which don't want to come out peacefully (  often due to rust and the like).   

A 48hr soak in Coca-Cola gets rid of the rust.

Please don't ask suger free or regulare coke. 

Regs

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Was able to sneak another full strip down before leaving for vacation.  My first time hand washing parts. I just happened to have zippo lighter fluid on hand so that was the tool along with peg wood and an air blower to agitate the water. Aesthetically the results are good but I seemed to notice the balance oscillation had slowed down from my prior build. Will need to get into investigation mode when I get back.  
 

 

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Good lighter fluid is clean. I use medicinal grade Benzinum, which is mainly the same. Put a drop on a well cleaned hand mirror and let it evaporate. It should not leave a visible trace to be good for watch cleaning incl. hairsprings.

Edited by Kalanag
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On 7/20/2022 at 8:34 AM, Kalanag said:

Good lighter fluid is clean. I use medicinal grade Benzinum, which is mainly the same. Put a drop on a well cleaned hand mirror and let it evaporate. It should not leave a visible trace to be good for watch cleaning incl. hairsprings.

Hello, is Benzinum benzene based?  Apologies, but I've never heard of it before now.  If it is, tell me you have fume cupboard or some way to evacuate the gas as it evaporates. Secondly,  can ethanol be used to strip parts?  In a very well ventilated area naturally.  I don't know which fluid is the safest and best to use at home as the kitchen is where I do most of my cleaning.

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6 hours ago, frankiethebear2002 said:

Hello, is Benzinum benzene based? 

No, benzine is NOT benzene. This is often asked because the similarity of their names which are unfamiliar to English speakers https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_ether

You will find all the answers to your questions, and some more, in the comphrensive topic:

 

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7 hours ago, frankiethebear2002 said:

Hello, is Benzinum benzene based? 

What is sold as „Benzinum“ in pharmacy over here is petroleum ether (petrolether). The key difference between benzene and petroleum ether is that benzene is an aromatic hydrocarbon whereas petroleum ether contains aliphatic hydrocarbons only.

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11 minutes ago, Kalanag said:

What is sold as „Benzinum“ in pharmacy over here is petroleum ether (petrolether). 

The type sold in pharmacies is laboratory grade, hence very expensive, as in 40 Euro the half liter. Because of that is not recommendable for cleaning use. You can find a 'commercial' grade in some art / restoration shops, and online, which per quantity cost less than lighter fluid.

Please continue the discussion on cleaning fluids in the dedicated topic linked above.

 

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16 minutes ago, jdm said:

The type sold in pharmacies is laboratory grade, hence very expensive, as in 40 Euro the half liter…

I pay about €8 for 250ml in my local pharmacy. Thats about the same as a good lighter fluid.

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3 hours ago, Kalanag said:

I pay about €8 for 250ml in my local pharmacy. Thats about the same as a good lighter fluid.

Interesting to note this Kalanag. In Uk we have a couple of different brands of lighter fluid. Tbh looking at the chemical make up I'm not sure if they are good or not but will try the mirror test . The brands available are only around 1.5  euro for 125ml. 

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4 hours ago, Kalanag said:

What is sold as „Benzinum“ in pharmacy over here is petroleum ether (petrolether). The key difference between benzene and petroleum ether is that benzene is an aromatic hydrocarbon whereas petroleum ether contains aliphatic hydrocarbons only.

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No worries matey, I was just a bit concerned.  

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1 hour ago, frankiethebear2002 said:

No worries matey, I was just a bit concerned.  

 

6 hours ago, Kalanag said:

The key difference between benzene and petroleum ether is that benzene is an aromatic hydrocarbon whereas petroleum ether contains aliphatic hydrocarbons only.

Often seen these two differences,  i now need to find out what this actually means, chemically and their abilities. 

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The most important fact you should know is that benzene is not benzine (as @jdm already said). Benzene is a hazardous cyclic hydrocarbon and should never be a major part of a watch cleaning fluid. Benzine is a mixture of various cyclic and aliphatic (non cyclic) Hydrcabons as water free watch cleaning fluids are as well. Elma WF Pro contains about 90% cyclic and aliphatic hydrocarbons with an additional content of alcohols and a tiny bit of ammonia.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A WILD CLEANING FLUID discussion has appeared.  (Pokemon Reference)

I'm currently using Zippo lighter fluid and honestly have almost zero chemistry knowledge but I appreciate all your experience sharing.  I'll have to get some "Benzinum" and give it a comparison.  I suppose I could test the zippo fluid one more time on a spare balance to see if it was the lighter fluid itself or some other mishandling.

I'm back from vacation! 

Luckily, while I've been away the Raketa 2603 spare movements have arrived from Ukraine!  They must have more important things to do now than ship me spare watch parts, but alas!  

Swapping the balance immediately fixes/reintroduces the oscillation issue.  So now that it's isolate to the balance assembly I can investigate further.  Also, having something to compare against.

Yesterday, I did a very thorough rebuild and it seemed to be purring until I flipped it to the dial side and noticed it stopped immediately.  It also restarts immediatley when reverting. My immediate thought is the vertical travel on a part near the end of the train of wheels or in the escapement seeing as how quickly it stops.  Need to review Marks videos on 'end shake' I think it was.  Anyways, will report back.  

Got a AmScope and I feel like I can ACTUALLY do things versus just guesing ... feels good.

 

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 Abrupt stop usually indicates the balance itself rubbing on something and rarely the fork rubbing on the roller table .

  Pivot shoulder rubbing on the setting hole might be dismissed since  both balances  stopped. 

Regds

 

 

 

With AmScope you will easily find whats rubbing. 

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