Jump to content

Landeron 148 chrono stopping


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I am currently frustrated with this Landeron 148. It works fine with the chronograph off, but once it is engaged it stops shortly. I have checked for damage on the wheels as well as adjusted the dephting, but I can't seem to get it to work. I was wondering if anyone had any tips or can spot something that looks like it needs attention (photo attached). 

 

IMG_3108.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The mainspring is fine I believe.

The adjustment on the sliding gear seems to be the issue as it stops whenever the chronograph runner engages with it. I can see that the depth isn't correct. I can't seem to figure out where the adjustment screws for the sliding gear are however.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, I believe that the adjustments on the driving, coupling and runner are fine now, but the watch stops immediately when the runner pin touches the sliding gear. It doesn't matter how I adjust it, the watch stops immediately as soon as the pin makes contact with the sliding gear. The sliding gear seems to work freely so I am really not sure why this is happening.

IMG_3113.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sliding gear wheel and min.-recording wheel must spin absolutely free without the least resistance.

But your picture looks like pin and tooth are blocking each other. This happens if sliding gear and pin are not meshing deep enough. Adjust the sliding gear deeper with its eccentric (can't say which one, find which stops the movement of s. g.)

Frank

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you for the help Frank. You were right that there was something off about the minute wheel and sliding gear. I ordered a new minute wheel for a 148 and it was different from the existing one in the movement. It works fine now with the new wheel and I was able to adequately adjust the depthing. Perhaps someone had switched it out for a different Landeron caliber?

The issue I'm having now is with the start/stop/reset. I know that on these movements the 2 o'clock pusher starts the chrono while the 4 o'clock pusher stops/resets. However when I engage the start pusher it will only move the hammer to the "stop" position, not all the way out to engage the chrono. If I move the hammer manually and engage the chrono, then try to stop it with the 4 o'clock pusher, it will do nothing. If it is in the "stop" position it will return and zero it out however. I have attached a photo of me moving the fly-back lever and you can see it doesn't engage at all.

Not sure what the issue could be with and would appreciate any tips. The only thing I can think is that there might be a problem with the reverser spring and fly-back lever?

IMG_3211.JPG

IMG_3213.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...