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By HectorLooi · Posted
The quality of the Chinese hand removers is getting worse. The first one I bought 4 years ago was still ok, but the ones I bought recently were totally useless. The two white plastic blocks on my original were riveted to the metal with brass rivets. The recent ones were just held by a plastic pin with the ends flattened by a soldering iron. It broke on the first use. -
By WatchMaker · Posted
Hi @Neverenoughwatches Thank you for those kind words. Whilst I've mentioned Marvin, anything from that MSR group of companies is worth a look. I have a couple of Revue's, a Vertex and a Vulcain. All nice watches. As you say though the fashion for when these were popular was of the smaller size compared to what people prefer today. But fashions come and go and, probably like me, you like what you like and wear what you like. 🙂 You've mentioned Longines and as a bit of trivia their 490 movement is the same as the Marvin 700 (but you'll pay a premium for the former). Now coming back to your question... ... there was actually a way that someone with no (Marvin in this case) knowledge and trying to find a needle in a haystack could have tracked this down. There was some very good information provided by the OP and having just sanity checked the method I'll explain below could have allowed the pinpoint. Let me try and explain! 🙃 Those two pieces of information were 1914 and 13''' (in fact I think it should be a forum mandate that anyone wanting help identifying a movement has to include such size information and preferably a pic of the keyless works! 🙂 ). You'll probably have noticed from any use of the ranfft.de site that it is good at providing the ligne size and usually an example of date of manufacture against movement details. So try this search in your browser bar... 13''' 1914 site:ranfft.de Note the three single quotes after the number for ligne size - this format needed for a match to how ranfft provides a size. This tells the browser to just search the site ranfft.de for any pages with those, in this example, two search terms. Clearly if there were other or different search terms these could be used. Now look at images returned (I'm using google and sometimes have to select the "see more anyway" option at the bottom of the page if there are more images returned than the paltry default google pulls back). In this case no matches. But don't despair as we know we should be looking at a reasonable year range for when the movement might have been used and thus be in the ranfft example. So change 1914 to 1915 and repeat. Mmm ... still nothing. But now change 1915 to 1916. Bingo!!! There's the fella - fourth image on the top row. Yippee!!! 😃 Hope the above makes sense! It can be a good way (watch movements or not) if trying to track or narrow something down you think is likely to be against a specific website. -
By watchweasol · Posted
Hi A picture of the underside of the bezel and the front of the watch would be helpful in determining the problem. On some bezels there is a wavy flat spring that fits under the bezel and then the bezel snaps on , the spring prividing the tension for the bezel. There are others in which there is a small hole in the case with a spring and a bearing (a Biro ball is some time used as a replacement) which detents on the underside of the bezel. thanks -
By SpringMangler · Posted
Hi Gaus, slightly off topic but which model Commodoor is this? I'm looking for a Parrenin 171X movement for a project and there are a couple of different model Commodoor watches on ebay at the moment.
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Question
LittleWatchShop
Now that I have your attention with the catchy title!
Here is a hairspring that come from a watch that I have little invested in, but I would like to get it working...an old elgin ladies pendant watch.
I show the hairspring as it came out of the watch and then again after I have worked on it for awhile. I think I am getting close, but now each adjustment seems more sensitive, so I am taking it very very slow. I have watch some videos on bending hairsprings but watching and doing are two different things.
For tweezers, I am using a Dumont #3 in my left hand and Dumont #6 in my right (I am right handed). I feel like I would have more control with two #6. As you can see, I have stabilized the hairspring in pith wood because I felt like it would be better than driving the brass pin into pine or some other relatively soft wood.
Any thoughts?
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