Jump to content

Seiko SKZ 221J1 Land Shark/Atlas Crystal Replacement


Recommended Posts

I want to replace the crystal on my Land Shark/Atlas. SKZ221 JI

From the limited info I have got this is not like other Seiko dive watches I have done. I gather the bezel is held on by a round ring under the bezel insert that has to be unwound to enable the bezel to be prized off and the crystal pushed out from underneath?

If this is the case, and I may have the wrong info, how do I remove the bezel insert to get access without damaging it. I haven't found any replacement bezel inserts so a bit concerned if it gets damaged!

Any advice would be appreciated please.

 

20220608_204620.jpg

20220608_204521.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Pluto said:

I want to replace the crystal on my Land Shark/Atlas.

Why? Be aware that a generic sapphire crystal likely will not fit when the original has a non-standard height and/or a bevel to clear the inner diameter of the bezel insert.

 

14 hours ago, Pluto said:

I gather the bezel is held on by a round ring under the bezel insert 

From where you gather that? I haven't seen anything like that ever. The framed A0 on the caseback indicates the case building type, now i don't have the corresponding table but that's easy to find. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi jdm. Sorry typo on heading. It's SKZ211J1

What you can't see is a chip in the crystal at 12 and some light scratches. I'm hoping this Japan made crystal I have specifically for this model will be ok. If not I will put the old one back.

The info I got was from another watch forum from some time ago when a description of how this models crystal and bezel is fitted. This was after quite a bit of searching.

This AO table for the case type may be helpful but how to find it?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An incabloc spring? About 10p at the current price 🤣
    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
×
×
  • Create New...