Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I’ve just started tinkering with mechanical watches and I’d appreciate help/input from the more experienced people here

 

I bought a cheap Seiko 7005 watch from eBay to experiment with. The watch was running (albeit not very accurately) when it arrived but the power reserve wasn’t good

 

I stripped down the movement to inspect the parts and prepare for cleaning

 

The first stages of the strip down were fine. I was following Seiko’s documentation and various videos on YouTube. However I became confused when I got to the stage where I needed to remove power from the movement so I could detach the ratchet wheel

 

I know that power removal involves disengaging the click from the ratchet wheel. However I discovered that the click in my 7005 had snapped and was never engaged with the wheel in the first instance. All that’s left of my click is the stepped part that slots into the base plate, the ‘arm’ of the click that actually engages with the wheel has gone. I’m guessing that the click was broken by the last person to open the case

 

This isn’t a problem per se, a replacement click for a 7005 won’t break the bank

 

My question: How come the movement could run without a click? I thought the click was crucial to the watch being wound. How could my 7005 wind itself without a click? Am I missing something here?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's because the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring to unwind by itself. In fact, to unwind the MS in these watches you need to first remove the 2nd reduction wheel and then you can hold the click and unwind it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, aac58 said:

That's because the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring to unwind by itself. In fact, to unwind the MS in these watches you need to first remove the 2nd reduction wheel and then you can hold the click and unwind it.

That makes sense, thanks aac58

 

As an extension question, why does a 7005 have a click if the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring unwinding by itself?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Kingsie said:

That makes sense, thanks aac58

 

As an extension question, why does a 7005 have a click if the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring unwinding by itself?

Because the click is designed to hold the spring and the winding mechanism is not, although it does. Probably it's standing a pressure (against the winding direction) that should be supported by the click instead, and that might affect other characteristics, for example the ability to self-wind or the wear of the pawl lever tips and the 2nd reduction wheel teeth. That could explain a poor power reserve, but here I'm just guessing.

Edited by aac58
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, aac58 said:

Because the click is designed to hold the spring and the winding mechanism is not, although it does. Probably it's standing a pressure (against the winding direction) that should be supported by the click instead, and that might affect other characteristics, for example the ability to self-wind or the wear of the pawl lever tips and the 2nd reduction wheel teeth. That could explain a poor power reserve, but here I'm just guessing.

Logical reasoning, thanks

 

I'll give you guys a shout if I need more help with the 7005's rebuild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
    • I dont understand why a patreon membership would have limited places ??
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. It’s highly unlikely you will be able to purchase a new bezel look on eBay for a pulsar watch for repair to find a bezel.
×
×
  • Create New...