Jump to content

Doing it wrong makes you remember to do it right.


Recommended Posts

I've just done my fist attempt at a full disassemble and rebuild. Watched the Mark Lovick video tutorial a number of times. Good to go. Ready for the first clean in Lighter fluid. Check everything. Balance secured to base plate. Balance jewels removed from balance cock and plate. Kept separate. Good to go. Jewel spring on cock secured. Good to go. 

Place everything in Ultrasonic cleaner. Off we go.

Done it. Feels good to achieve everything. The rebuild will be a doddle. 

Put everything out of the tray into a receptacle to dry. What's this extra bit of gold glitter? I did not have anything golden in the tray.

Pantomime. OH yes you did. 

I had not secured the balance bottom jewel spring on the base. There it was!!!!!

Easy to put back isn't it? OH no it's not. I've been at it 3 days now. Not skilled enough. Even sent off a set of ss tweezers. 

I will get there.

Doing it wrong means you do it right next time.  Will I secure both springs before a clean? You betcha.

Ross

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it an Inclabloc 'lyre' type spring where you have to get "T" end back in place ?

They seem nearly impossible when you are a beginner - but you will look back in a few years and wonder why you struggled !

One way to make it easier is to put some Rodico at the edge of the block where you are trying slide to spring in.
Stick the spring to the Rodico vertically - you may need to adjust the angle to get it to slide in.
Then using pegwood and tweezers, slide the spring down in to place. The Rodico should stop it pinging off.

It's much easier if you are lucky enough to have a microscope to work under

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/14/2022 at 8:06 AM, Kalanag said:

See this video (8:30 up):

Thank you Kalanag, and to all. Done it. 

Been trying for days. Ping, ping, ping. Search for the spring.

Tried it again today. A small piece of Rodico on the spring stuck to the tweezers when I removed the spring from the Rodico. Used that as the holder, placed it against the gap. Closed my eyes and took a breath. Now I'll push it in. What? Don't need to, as it is already in.  Gently push each side of the spring into place. Done!!!

Cleaned the base again. Tomorrow I will try to put the gems back in. 

Woohoo!

Ross

 

Edited by rossjackson01
Spelling
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...