Jump to content

Tapered collet holder--can it be fixed?


Recommended Posts

I picked up this with my watch bench purchase.  It was rather rusty.  After removing the rust, I find that it will not fit snugly in a tailstock runner.  Measuring my good collet holder, I get 4.5mm at the widest.  Measuring the one I cleaned up, I get 4.17mm.  Clearly the metal was oxidized and then removed leaving a narrower tapered post.

It is functional otherwise.  Wondering if there is any way to bring this back to life.  One idea would be to plate it and thus layering the necessary 150um or so on to the post.  Sounds sketchy though.

2022-05-11 10_58_38-20220511_105513.jpg ‎- Photos.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I wonder if there is a smaller taper for a different style/type tailstock runner.  Is that possible?

There's no particular standard for the taper, different manufacturers definitely used different ones. I believe the closest thing to "standard" was 2 degrees.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • When you move the index which changes the timing from an extreme fast to an extreme slow, is there a big change in beat error? Obviously there will be a big change in timing. If there is a big difference in BE then this is strongly inferring the the end-curve of the hairspring isn't set correctly or/and the collet is central to the jewel on the balance cock, because the hairspring that is breathing between the curb pin and boot is being pushed and/or pulled when you move the index from left to right. Also not having the hairspring set correctly can dramatically reduce the amplitude. A quick check is to take power off the movement and move the index from extreme fast to slow and with high magnification see if the hairspring sits nicely between the curb pin and boot at all times (give the balance a spin and watch the hairspring - has it got total freedom?) or if it moves by being pushed or pulled by the curb pin or boot. I'm guessing it is the latter. I think that may be a possibility to your problem.
    • I can't get windingstens.com to open but you need a  few measurements. 
    • All Done, Here are the finished pictures: This one shows the generic "one-size-fits-all" base which accepts the bespoke rings - notice that the parametric movement OD (27.40 mm) automatically prints on the ring 🙂 From another angle: Here is the ring about to go into the base: And finally the base and ring together: Here it is next to a pen for scale: On my system with 20% fill each ring will take about 18 mins to print, but I am sure this could be optimised: Here is the screenshot of the spreadsheet in FreeCAD, you just need to change one value to create the ring in cell C3, (the base doesn't need any changes). I'll upload the files to printables in due course, but here whey are as a fake pdf, please change the .pdf to .zip to make the file work once downloaded: Modular Movement Holder.pdf Any feedback welcome!     I'm also going to make a parametric ring insert for rectangular/oval movements - but I just finished a parent teacher evening so too tired now 🙂  
    • I'm going to give that a go next time, thanks for a great idea @rossjackson01 One of my students uses this tool and swears by it https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wheel-hand-roller-remover-bergeon?code=W1851 which is very like getting two sticks of pegwood under the wheel and rolling them in your fingers so they create a slight prying from underneath motion, I suppose. Maybe bind one end of the two sticks of pegwood so they are like tweezers.
    • Thank you. I spent a lot of time on that.   It never ceases to amaze me that there are so many slight adjustments that can be made to the chronograph mechanism through setting the eccentric studs to get them all to a concerto, like an orchestra with everything in time and to its most optimum. Understanding that setting one stud to the desired effect may throw another out is the fun of working on vintage chronographs. Great pic of the 3133 dart tooth interaction and tilt of the tooth. I love working on 3133s. Slightly better than the 7733 in my opinion and you get a date at 6!
×
×
  • Create New...