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New watch repair video on YT


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10 minutes ago, Tiny said:

This is one of Marks best video's to date.

can I ask what is the tool called that he uses at time stamp 32.15 ??

 

10 minutes ago, Tiny said:

This is one of Marks best video's to date.

can I ask what is the tool called that he uses at time stamp 32.15 ??

Hiya T. Its a diashock spring press. It has three teeth that push down on the prongs of the diashock spring. Press down and turn to lock it in place . You can use a tooth pick with a hollowed out end. I did make one and was amazed how well it worked. I used a cordess dremel type tool to shape the pick.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
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On 5/9/2022 at 10:26 PM, Kalanag said:

…and some surface friendly plastic stuff 🙂

I’ve never seen those for sale. Maybe @Mark could point us in the right direction where to get them? I suppose it may also be possible to get a plastic rod that fits in a screw driver, then shape it into a wedge…

On the other hand, I have found that contact with acrylic plastic discolours movement plates after a period of time, so I would prefer to get watchmaker grade stuff.

Edited by ifibrin
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On 5/14/2022 at 9:20 AM, ifibrin said:

I’ve never seen those for sale. Maybe @Mark could point us in the right direction where to get them? I suppose it may also be possible to get a plastic rod that fits in a screw driver, then shape it into a wedge…

On the other hand, I have found that contact with acrylic plastic discolours movement plates after a period of time, so I would prefer to get watchmaker grade stuff.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/component-probe-horotec-26009

🙂

 

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Hi Mark.

Can I ask what grease you used in this video for the braking grease, I know you usually recommend 8217 but what you used seemed too dark to be 8217 are you using something else these days or were my eyes playing tricks and it was 8217 that you used.

Thanks.

Paul

 

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    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
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