Jump to content

Another Watch By Me! I Hope You Like It!


DJW

Recommended Posts

I finished painting the dial quite some time ago, but was searching for the right combination of components to put it all together!

 

I hope you guys like it, if not, at least, find it interesting!

 

Yes, another Hamilton pocket watch movement converted into a wristwatch. Also, These cases are quite nice and are very well made. The strap is a dark blue crocodile grain leather.

post-90-0-97632600-1394038451_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-74669300-1394038452_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-29700800-1394038453_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a really nice watch and the painting is brilliant, the display back is also very nice. Tomorrow's heirloom?

 

Thank you! If I don't start getting some of these sold, I'll be up to my eyeballs in heirlooms! :D

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure who you bought the case from to be honest. And, there are about 3-4 different cases that all appear to be the same but with subtle differences. I buy the dials from a number of people. And yes, sometimes I buy from the same sellers of the cases. It just depends on what look I'm going for and if that particular seller has something comparable in stock.

As for the dials that I paint, I use the stock Hamilton dials Which, BTW, are usually sterling silver and not brass. And most have solid 18k indices. I keep those too!

 

Are you planning on using a ETA design movement or something like the Hamilton 10s movement?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's coming from china and states that it fits Unitas 6497-6498 movements. I will have to do some research on the size of those and compare to what I can find in the ETA line. I am interested in the Hamiltons as I find them absolutely beautiful but I am worried that I would be to rough on the movement having no shock absorbers. I guess I will determine the dail after deciding on a movement and what sub dials it may need. Where do you get your Hamiltons?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm trying to quote your text but something won't let me...Probably Internet Explorer 11!

 

Anyway, other than subtle differences in the inner workings of the Asian ETA's, the Swiss ETA's and the Unitas movements...I believe they are all the same overall dimensions and should interchange perfectly in any of these cases. I will say that I've been extremely impressed with the Asian ETA 6497/6498 (SeaGull ST36) compared to the Swiss versions. I especially like the ones advertised as "Swan Neck regulator" as they are beautiful movements and very reliable! If you were even able to buy the Swiss ETA 6497-2 (high beat Bridge model) used in such watches as Panerai, it would be 10X what the Asian version goes for, roughly $40 a piece.

 

There are a few dials on ebay for the Hamilton conversions. I tend to buy the nice guilloche dial with the roman numerals as it a very classy looking dial for these conversions.

 

 One thing to know is the sub second location for the ETA movements (all these styles, Asian and Swiss) are in the exact same location as the Hamilton sub second dial. The difference is the location of the dial feet. You can use and 6497 dial on a Hamilton 10s movement (917, 921, 945, 923) just the dial feet are in a different location. Some of the people who sells these conversions take some serious shortcuts and use "Dial Dots" to attach the 6497 dials to the Hamilton's. They beak of the dial feet and then basically tape the dial to the movement. I hate this application! I re-solder new dial feet to the dial for use in the Hammy's. If you do it quickly, there is little chance of damaging the finish on the dial with most dials...But not all dials, I know! 

 

I use to buy, and probably will again, on eBay. I just got lucky and have been doing some pocket watch repairs for a gentleman in Tennessee and have been taking these as trade for work. I probably have had 15 or 16 of them in the last 2 months. Of course none were running when I got them! I think I have only one left that I have not gotten running yet, only because I need a few hard to find parts.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

About shock protection....

I agree that it would be nice to have, but if you are careful, it should not be a problem! remember that there were millions of wristwatches made before mass produced shock resistant systems were introduced.

There are a number of people out there who just go 'Ballistic" when someone converts one of the pocket watch movements to a wristwatch. I'm all about keeping purity in these timepieces, but with the price of gold today there are 1000's of these movements around that will never get used for any other reason. Even rolled Gold cases are selling at ridiculous scrap prices!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

another one...I posted a picture of the dial before but finished it Yesterday.

 

The 44mm case and buckle are PVD coated. I also installed a sapphire crystal on the front. I Had to order the buckle to match the case finish, but didn't think about how much larger the tang is compared to holes in the strap I installed. So there's another tool I need! A hole punch for straps...

post-90-0-03882500-1394535888_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-84872200-1394535888_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-73454100-1394535889_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-41786500-1394535890_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Impressive work! Might the hands be clearer if they were red or white? That would be my only change stunning watch

I've tried both colors and it just doesn't look right with these panted dials. These hands are actually pretty easy to see. Their shape and rhodium plating reflects light very brightly. And, if the angle is not right to catch enough light, just a slight movement of the wrist is all you need to reflect the light.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'll just keep posting my interesting watches in this thread if you guys don't mind!

 

Here is one that I just finished today! As soon as I finished it, I said, "I'm Keeping This One!". My wife said, "You can't make any profit in your little business if you keep all the watches that you like!" She's right of course, but I Really, Really like this one! And, I'll probably keep it anyway!

 

The Howard Keystone movement dates to around 1914 and really is in marvelous condition! I had the original Howard dial refinished to the new wristwatch orientation. The case is 46mm, but really doesn't play that large because of the very thin bezel. I would love to do more of these!

 

post-90-0-45327200-1395518853_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-25657700-1395518985_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-69027300-1395518854_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-37222700-1395518855_thumb.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a classic and people will still want it in 100 years time,  brilliant.

I agree! If properly serviced, It will be running in another 100 years! More than I can say for that "Smart Watch" I posted about a few days ago! (that will be out of date by next year and no one will even want to wear it!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
On 3/22/2014 at 1:11 PM, DJW said:

I'll just keep posting my interesting watches in this thread if you guys don't mind!

 

Here is one that I just finished today! As soon as I finished it, I said, "I'm Keeping This One!". My wife said, "You can't make any profit in your little business if you keep all the watches that you like!" She's right of course, but I Really, Really like this one! And, I'll probably keep it anyway!

 

The Howard Keystone movement dates to around 1914 and really is in marvelous condition! I had the original Howard dial refinished to the new wristwatch orientation. The case is 46mm, but really doesn't play that large because of the very thin bezel. I would love to do more of these!

 

IMG_20140322_155025 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20140322_155233 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20140322_155139 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20140322_155318 - Copy.jpg

 

 

That is one beautiful watch!...Good work DJW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I found this from a while back CS100 seems fine, but at around 500 Vickers it's not quite as hard as "blue" steel, but still harder than annealed. I'd try to find annealed (the post above has a U.K. supplier of small quantities).
    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel.  Thanks, Nev. Amplitude v. weak - balance wheel turns over arc of only ~20deg. Don't know how to calculate movement rate or safely vibrate balance spring! Meantime I have reduced the 'dishing' & clock no longer runs for more than a few minutes except face down which supports my theory that it was 'dished' as a hack to avoid doing a proper repair.
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
×
×
  • Create New...