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Soviet addict


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I think the price of a normal service in the UK would be at least twice the cost of a Soviet watch. You might have to learn how to service them yourself.

Soviet watches are pretty tough but prone to rust. So make sure you screw down the crowns of your Amphibias and Komandirskies properly.

I have 5 Soviet watches so far. 2 Vostoks, 2 Poljots and 1 Sekonda. I'm looking for a Luch vintage quartz but their prices are crazy.

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Privyet! Tough time to be getting into the Ruskies... I gave eBay a troll the other day to see what 404s were floating in the muck, and the Russian contingent was pretty much entirely absent. May be different pickin's your side of the puddle, but I can't imagine the source is very giving lately.

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Thanks for the intro @Sovietaddict welcome to the WRT forum! I'm also relatively new and I'm in the middle of my first service of an Elgin Grade 313 movement which has been stalled for a while as I was waiting for oil and a mainspring winder. Well, my oil arrived and luckily I picked up an identical 2nd movement so as I disassemble that one it will help me remember how to re-assemble the first one! I've posted some shots of my watches here.

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    • Hold the crown when in winding position, move the click away from the crown wheel, and then while holding the crown let it slowly unwind. I recollect that you must remove the automatic device bridge first, but maybe I'm wrong. You can first try without removing the automatic device bridge.
    • nevenbekriev- You nailed it with your description of me and my reaction when the clock started ticking again. I am a newbie.  I love the sound and idea of mechanical clocks but the idea of owning one and trying to keep them running has never appealed to me. My wife bought this one and an antique German wall clock.  When I looked into having someone repair them for me, the universal response was "it's really expensive to work on them, you should just replace the movement". So, I had nothing to lose, I started researching them and opened them up. The wife is happy because she hears the sound of the clocks again. But I have gone down the "accuracy" rabbit hole. In the vertical position, the balance wheel was not floating. It was sitting on the bottom of the frame. I adjusted the lower spring collet and got it floating. It easily passed the 270 degree 3 to 5 minute oscillation test. It took 8 minutes for the wheel to completely stop moving.  I put it the unit back in the movement and checked the safety pin. It does not touch the safety roller anywhere in +/-270 degrees rotation from neutral position. But the amplitude of the rotation with the spring fully wound is weak based on what you are saying. It rotates +/-90 degrees from the neutral position.  No, I did not take the movement completely apart.  That seemed way outside my skill set at the time. There is a reason I became an electrical engineer and not a mechanical engineer. I am much more comfortable with moving electrons than tiny moving metal parts. Will I do it in the long run? Anything can happen. I don't seem to be able to let it go.
    • Isn't that the same guy who told Zelenskyy to escalate the war with Russia/Putin when they already had a peace deal? 2 years later and we have half a million young Ukranian boys dead. He doesn't seem very clever...
    • Thanks guys.  quick question. For automatic movement, particularly this one. can I power down the main spring by pushing this rachet down?  i've gotten pretty used to SW210 and powering down a manual movement. But so far i've only been waiting for the auto movement to run out of juice before opening the case.     
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